Help! Cube Acid was a failure - suggestions?

[Medikamina]

Hey guys, I’ve finally decided to own up to my failure and ask for some help!

Last September, after a lot of research I bought a 2018 Cube Acid Hybrid One 500 new from Leisurelakes. I ‘sized down’ (17”) slightly on the frame as my height etc put me in the middle - despite this, the thing is just far too damn big for me.

With the seat at the lowest, I can just barely touch the floor. I find the huge wheels and size/weight of the frame to be a huge disincentive to get it out - my house has a log narrow corridor that I can only just fit the bike through!

As such, after a ~£2100 investment in bike and equipment, I’ve probably done ~150 miles and it’s sitting in the shed.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s a lovely bike and once out and about really pulls. For the right person (or different circumstances re house and no back garden access without going through house) it would be great.

Also, no easy paneer solution was a pain. Anyway, rant over.

I’m looking for either a) suggestions/solutions for how to make this work for me or, possibly more likely b) Suggestions for a cheaper/smaller/lighter commuter electric bike.

I’m a larger guy at 220lb, 5”10 but with short legs (29/30”).

Thanks. Feels good to get off my chest! Thanks in advance!

 

[Chris M]

I would have thought being barely able to touch the ground from your saddle was the correct adjustment as you need your legs to be fairly stretched when pedalling. I have short legs and have spent my whole life just slipping forward off the saddle when I stop so I can reach the ground. When at its lowest, is the seat mount making contact with the frame? Cube bikes sometimes have a long seat post which doesn't fit all the way down the tube it goes into. On mine the shop cut a bit off the bottom of the seat tube so the seat would go lower down towards the frame.
There probably aren't many bikes much lighter than the Cube Acid unless you go for either something with a small motor or a very expensive carbon frame.
The handlebars are quite wide. You could try fitting narrower handlebars for getting it through the house. This might make life easier.
I have little technical knowledge but would it be possible to fit smaller wheels? I love the 29" wheels but smaller ones would lower the bike. Make sure you get expert advice on this before buying any small er wheels.
£2,100 - ouch. You should have tried Race Co Cycles and asked them for their best price.
I'm 5ft 2in and ride a 15" Acid which I love.

 

[anotherkiwi]

My favorite bike has lived in very strange places and it weighs well over 20 kg. Folded it is an unwieldy shape and hard to carry long distances (like 3 floors without a lift). What has stopped me using it since March? Work and 15% gradients just in front of my home (it doesn't have a motor yet, well almost).

Getting your bike out the door if "it’s a lovely bike and once out and about really pulls" isn't the problem, maybe you need to talk to someone about why a corridor is stopping you from using your bike? I agree with above about being on tip toes being the right size.

These comments are not a criticisme, just trying to help you with your long corridor syndrome OK?

 

[Sturmey]

Hi. It may be possible to change seat post to older style with separate clamp and to fit clamp upside down as shown in photo below. That will reduce saddle height by about 3/4 inch or perhaps a little more. I done this with my daughters bike years ago but it can be a tight squeeze . If I can remember, I dismantled the clamp and reassembled it inside the saddle.

 

[Artstu]

A 17" frame seems small for someone 5' 10". I'd trim the width of the bars a little if there's scope to, a new bike is not the answer.

 

[MikeS]

yes that's what I was thinking. I'm 5'10" with a 31 inside leg and I have a Crossfuse with a 19" frame and the seat post is nowhere near fully down. Are you sure they have sold you a 17" frame bike?
Mike

 

[Julie]

I have a couple Of hard tail EMTBs. One 27.5 and the other 28” wheels. I don’t like that the wheels are so large. I much prefer old mountain bikes when they had 26” wheels.

 

[Nealh]

I have a 17" mtb and the saddle is very high, I'm 5' 9" and about 30" I/s leg.
Even my 19" 700c frames pose no issue with all having plenty of seat tube height adjustment

Show us a pic of your bike form the side.

 

[vfr400]

The access problem is easy to solve. Put folding pedals on it and lever screws on the stem clamp so that you can quick release the clamp and turn the bars in line with the frame with the wheel still pointing forwards. That makes the bike completely flat. Anybody that has to bring their bike into the house or flt should do this. It’s also handy if you don't have much room in your garage.

 

[Wicky]

Also - someone posted these folding pedals in another thread - which might make getting your bike in and out a bit easier

MKS FD-7 Folding Pedals

With an improved folding mechanism the FD-7 is now even easier to fold flat against the cranks saving valuable space in tight storage situations. The aggressive footplate improves shoe grip, making sure that you have great purchase on the pedals. The FD-7 has a strong cage and body with durable...

www.sjscycles.co.uk

 

[Medikamina]

Thanks so much for all the responses - it’s really helpful and I intend to get back to everyone later on today.

It’s definitely true that there’s obviously ‘more’ behind me not getting out and using it, I just hoped that by making it as accessible as possible/removing barriers would help!

I’ll look into narrower handlebars - is this something I go to a bike shop to discuss?

Regarding the seat, there is indeed a bolt across stopping the post going behind a point - when I first got the bike, on its lowest setting I could hardly touch the floor with my tiptoes without leaning the bike, so I did have an inch taken off the bottom. I think there’s still scope to have another cm or two taken off.

I’ll have a think/look, but seems there’s plenty I can do to make things as easy as possible.

Thanks!

 

[Medikamina]

The access problem is easy to solve. Put folding pedals on it and lever screws on the stem clamp so that you can quick release the clamp and turn the bars in line with the frame with the wheel still pointing forwards. That makes the bike completely flat. Anybody that has to bring their bike into the house or flt should do this. It’s also handy if you don't have much room in your garage.

Hi, could you tell me a little more about how I go about doing this? I’m very unfamiliar with bikes but it sounds like it would be really helpful with my narrow winding corridors!

 

[Medikamina]

yes that's what I was thinking. I'm 5'10" with a 31 inside leg and I have a Crossfuse with a 19" frame and the seat post is nowhere near fully down. Are you sure they have sold you a 17" frame bike?
Mike

I hope so! Definitely too late to send it back now if not...

 

[vfr400]

You just replace the stem clamp bolts with two lever bolts, which you can get from Ebay. If you take one of your bolts out and measure it, I can give you a link to an exact replacement. This is the sort of thing. Half a turn with each lever unclamps the bars and allows you to turn them independently from the wheel, then half a turn on one of them holds them flat like that. the whole procedure can be done in 5 seconds. Don't waste your time with shorter bars. Much better to have no bars sticking out.

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[Artstu]

I’ll look into narrower handlebars - is this something I go to a bike shop to discuss?

Dependant on the shape of the bars it is simply a case of moving the brake levers and gear changer inwards a little, remove the grips, cut off the end of the bars by the amount you've moved the levers and then refit the grips.

 

[Deleted member 25121]

View attachment 32016
You just replace the stem clamp bolts with two lever bolts, which you can get from Ebay. If you take one of your bolts out and measure it, I can give you a link to an exact replacement. This is the sort of thing. Half a turn with each lever unclamps the bars and allows you to turn them independently from the wheel, then half a turn on one of them holds them flat like that. the whole procedure can be done in 5 seconds. Don't waste your time with shorter bars. Much better to have no bars sticking out.

16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Interesting, do you find you need to readjust the main headset bearing via the top cap bolt every so often or does it stay locked?

 

[vfr400]

Interesting, do you find you need to readjust the main headset bearing via the top cap bolt every so often or does it stay locked?

I've never had to adjust it yet.

 

[Medikamina]

View attachment 32016
You just replace the stem clamp bolts with two lever bolts, which you can get from Ebay. If you take one of your bolts out and measure it, I can give you a link to an exact replacement. This is the sort of thing. Half a turn with each lever unclamps the bars and allows you to turn them independently from the wheel, then half a turn on one of them holds them flat like that. the whole procedure can be done in 5 seconds. Don't waste your time with shorter bars. Much better to have no bars sticking out.

16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Thanks a lot for taking the time to tell me about that!

Im away at the moment but will take a look at my bike some time this week!

 

[Medikamina]

View attachment 32016
You just replace the stem clamp bolts with two lever bolts, which you can get from Ebay. If you take one of your bolts out and measure it, I can give you a link to an exact replacement. This is the sort of thing. Half a turn with each lever unclamps the bars and allows you to turn them independently from the wheel, then half a turn on one of them holds them flat like that. the whole procedure can be done in 5 seconds. Don't waste your time with shorter bars. Much better to have no bars sticking out.

16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 16-60mm Clamping Lever Machinery Handles Locking Males Thread Knob Hex Screws FO at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Hi, measurements are 25mm x 5mm for the bolt!

 

[vfr400]

M5x25mm Thread 50mm Long Lever Lathe Machinery Adjustable Clamping Handle 3pcs | eBay

Description: Features: spring loaded bolt, high-Impact, anti-acid, anti-oil and kinds of chemical agents. This handle is particular suit for the lever turning angle is limited, owing to lack of space.

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To operate them, you push down on the lever, then rotate it to turn the screw. When you let go, you can turn the lever independently of the screw to make it look neat. It might be the other way round to that, but I'm sure you get the idea.