Correct tool for tightening locknuts on brake cables?

[smee]

I need to tighten the locknut on my brake cable (Tektro Novela discs). Normal pliers are too wide, so I could use long nose pliers. Is there a better tool, that will mark it up less, some sort of spanner?

 

[Aushiker]

You have me intrigued. What is the lock nut on the cable you are referring to? Cables normally have an adjuster which you should be able to turn by hand.

At the attachment end (brake calliper) the cable should be secured by a tab and allen key bolt.

So your reference to a lock nut on the cable is interesting.

Andrew

 

[smee]

Maybe I am using the wrong name. At the handlebar end of the cable, there is a threaded end, with a flat on it, that screws into the brake handle. On the threaded bit, is a thinner knurled nut that appears to be used to lock the thread on the end on the cable.

I found a picture in google. It's the chrome bits in this picture.

 

[smee]

Maybe it's only meant to be finger tightened?

 

[Gringo]

Yes Smee has it.
Finger tight us all that's needed, if it was ment to be any tighter the manufacture would have put flats on it for a spanner

 

[Aushiker]

Maybe it's only meant to be finger tightened?

Yes that is the cable adjuster. It is in two parts. The bigger "nut" which is simply there to lock the adjuster in place once you have adjusted the cable correctly. They can get a bit tight I must admit but as a rule you should be able to loosen them and tighten them by hand.

Andrew

 

[peerjay56]

That's not really a lock nut at all. It's actually an adjuster for taking up any slack that develops in the cable. When you first set your brakes, you start with it wound in, and then as the cable stretches, you gradually wind it out to maintain cable tension.

Edit: Crossed with Aushikers post.

 

[RobF]

Years ago some brake cable adjusters had a locking ring.

Modern one have a detent, so the adjuster clicks with each part turn then stays where it is - no locking ring needed.

 

[mike killay]

Intriguing thought.
Do the cables stretch or the outers compress?

 

[peerjay56]

Intriguing thought.
Do the cables stretch or the outers compress?

Yes.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Intriguing thought.
Do the cables stretch or the outers compress?

Neither. The pads wear, so you have to adjust the length of the inner cable relative to the outer, which is what that adjuster's for.

 

[Aushiker]

Modern one have a detent, so the adjuster clicks with each part turn then stays where it is - no locking ring needed.

Modern ones can still have them. I have Avid Speed Dial 7 and they have them.

Andrew

 

[Deleted member 4366]

"They are super easy to install and adjust—so you can dial in the modulation just the way you like."

What's modulation?

 

[RobF]

What's modulation?

Fine control of brake force.

If brakes are too grabby, one solution is to fit a modulator:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-power-modulator-kit/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=uk&kpid=5300030666

 

[neptune]

A modulator is a spring. But if you call it a modulator, you can charge a lot more for it.

 

[Gringo]

Power Modulator

Now there's a bit of kit I didn't know I needed

There's me squeezing the break lever gently at first then harder if I'm not slowing down quick enough.
Now I can just squeeze away without thinking about it
All we need now is a breaking system that can be operated from our phones and I'll be happy, (assuming I ever buy myself a smart phone)
All these gadgets! Satnav mapping and wotnots.
I've got a paper map, so I know where I'm going & if I ever become unsure where I've been, I just look over my shoulder & there it is

 

[grldtnr]

Actually I do it the other way round! ,wind the adjuster out set the

That's not really a lock nut at all. It's actually an adjuster for taking up any slack that develops in the cable. When you first set your brakes, you start with it wound in, and then as the cable stretches, you gradually wind it out to maintain cable tension.

Edit: Crossed with Aushikers post.

Actually .I do it the other way round! wind the adjuster out ,then set the brake so it is just biting then screw back in the adjuster ,a case of over tighten then slacken off with adjuster, the adjuster is only there so that you can remove and install the cables ,hence the slotted bits!

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

the adjuster is only there so that you can remove and install the cables ,hence the slotted bits!

the adjuster is there, so you can take up slack as cables stretch... or back things off if you get a slight buckle in the disc / rim... hence why its called an adjuster

the slot is so you can take the able out.

 

[peerjay56]

Excellent. So, to summarise:
They are / are not adjusters that do / do not take up slack when the cables do / do not stretch. For best results, they should be wound in / out (and shaken all about). They should be adjusted by hand, and not by tools. They are slotted to allow cables to be passed through them.
Glad that's cleared up

 

[flecc]

Fine control of brake force.

If brakes are too grabby, one solution is to fit a modulator:

Horrible things, give a brake a spongy feeling. They were fitted as standard on the Giant Lafree front V brake, a bike that certainly didn't need one.