Converting my Ridgeback hybrid.

[kevind]

Thanks for the add. I'm looking to convert my Ridgeback. I've been without a car before and just cycled as needed and am in the process of getting rid of my van and going back to doing the same now. I'd like the luxury though of some electric help. The bike is not light and carries shopping and stuff too and I'm 6' 3" and 225lbs. Work is around 6 miles each way. I'm looking for advice on a motor and battery configuration that could do low 20's for speed. I don't mind derestricting a regular (more expensive) set up or trying something out there from eBay. I'm hoping to find though something that is known to be reliable. I'd rather get it right - and spend more if I have to - first time, than put something together and shortly afterwards wish I'd researched more... any advice welcome.

 

[vfr400]

There are two good ready-made kits that I can recommend: Woosh rear cassette motor kit from their website and Yosepower rear cassette motor kit from Ebay. Both can be derestricted if you can find out how.

Woosh hub kits | Electric Bike Conversion Kits from Woosh

Woosh range of hub kits with choice of front or rear hub motors. Convert your bike into an electric bike.

wooshbikes.co.uk

Items for sale by ysbattery-2012 | eBay

Shop eBay for great deals from ysbattery-2012!

www.ebay.co.uk

At 36v, both of those systems will give a cruising speed of 18 -20 mph when derestricted. Power ramps down rapidly after that

If speed is important, you can get a good advantage by running one of those type 36v motors at 48v. That gives 33% more power as well as speed.

Motors have a maximum rotation speed that is proportional to your battery voltage. It's a key characteristic. If you have a high speed motor and run it too slow, it'll be inefficient and run hot. As a general guide, choose a motor and battery combination that will give you a theoretical maximum speed of 1.25- 1.33 times your planned modal speed. For 23 mph cruising speed, you need a motor with a maximum speed of 380 rpm, which would be a 285 rpm 36v one. Most of the common motors are around 260 - 270 rpm. It's very important that you know what it is before ordering.

To run a 36v motor at 48v, all you need is a 48v controller, LCD and battery. Throttles brake sensors and pedal sensors all work off 5v supplied by all controllers.

The lightest weight motors or other good stuff can be bought directly from China. The price overall works out similar to buying from you UK or higher, depending on what you get.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Thanks for the add. I'm looking to convert my Ridgeback. I've been without a car before and just cycled as needed and am in the process of getting rid of my van and going back to doing the same now. I'd like the luxury though of some electric help. The bike is not light and carries shopping and stuff too and I'm 6' 3" and 225lbs. Work is around 6 miles each way. I'm looking for advice on a motor and battery configuration that could do low 20's for speed. I don't mind derestricting a regular (more expensive) set up or trying something out there from eBay. I'm hoping to find though something that is known to be reliable. I'd rather get it right - and spend more if I have to - first time, than put something together and shortly afterwards wish I'd researched more... any advice welcome.
View attachment 36278

De-restricting an unregistered, uninsured, untaxed e-bike, is breaking the law as it now stands.
If you will be riding on roads where the police patrol, and you exceed your allowed 15MPH, it is possible that someone in dark blue may notice.......
That can get quite expensive.
If you are involved in an accident, it is MOST likely that your bike will be tested, even if you were driving at 15 MPH or less!.
So, you will have to curb your speed where you might be noticed, thereby getting no advantage over the legal max, and STILL maybe get in an accident, even one not of your making, but your bike still gets tested and found at fault!
Is that worth it?
But it is still your choice.....
Have a great weekend.
Andy

 

[kevind]

There are two good ready-made kits that I can recommend: Woosh rear cassette motor kit from their website and Yosepower rear cassette motor kit from Ebay. Both can be derestricted if you can find out how.

Woosh hub kits | Electric Bike Conversion Kits from Woosh

Woosh range of hub kits with choice of front or rear hub motors. Convert your bike into an electric bike.

wooshbikes.co.uk

Items for sale by ysbattery-2012 | eBay

Shop eBay for great deals from ysbattery-2012!

www.ebay.co.uk

At 36v, both of those systems will give a cruising speed of 18 -20 mph when derestricted. Power ramps down rapidly after that

If speed is important, you can get a good advantage by running one of those type 36v motors at 48v. That gives 33% more power as well as speed.

Motors have a maximum rotation speed that is proportional to your battery voltage. It's a key characteristic. If you have a high speed motor and run it too slow, it'll be inefficient and run hot. As a general guide, choose a motor and battery combination that will give you a theoretical maximum speed of 1.25- 1.33 times your planned modal speed. For 23 mph cruising speed, you need a motor with a maximum speed of 380 rpm, which would be a 285 rpm 36v one. Most of the common motors are around 260 - 270 rpm. It's very important that you know what it is before ordering.

To run a 36v motor at 48v, all you need is a 48v controller, LCD and battery. Throttles brake sensors and pedal sensors all work off 5v supplied by all controllers.

The lightest weight motors or other good stuff can be bought directly from China. The price overall works out similar to buying from you UK or higher, depending on what you get.

Thanks for that. Especially the info on what parameters make it run efficiently - and therefore not straining the kit - I'll spend more time finding out about that. I'd looked at woosh and their good record with customer service. They have no kits in till the end of July. I'm not in a rush though and these links and info are food for thought in the meantime.

 

[Woosh]

No kits until end of July!

 

[kevind]

De-restricting an unregistered, uninsured, untaxed e-bike, is breaking the law as it now stands.
If you will be riding on roads where the police patrol, and you exceed your allowed 15MPH, it is possible that someone in dark blue may notice.......
That can get quite expensive.
If you are involved in an accident, it is MOST likely that your bike will be tested, even if you were driving at 15 MPH or less!.
So, you will have to curb your speed where you might be noticed, thereby getting no advantage over the legal max, and STILL maybe get in an accident, even one not of your making, but your bike still gets tested and found at fault!
Is that worth it?
But it is still your choice.....
Have a great weekend.
Andy

Thanks for the heads up Andy, it's fair enough to put that information in the mix. You have a great weekend too. Kevin.

 

[kevind]

No kit until end of July!

I know I was just looking through your site and saw that. Thanks for the heads up though so people realise.

 

[Old Fart At Play]

Sorry this has nothing to do with your question, but I see that you have swept back bars on that supernova. I think that this bike is shipped with pretty much straight bars (6 degreees backsweep) but they look like 30 to 35 degrees backsweep. Did you change them yourself, If so, why - did you have tingling hands? Did you find that those bars fixed the problem?

I'm asking because I have just bought a bike with straight bars (after many,many years of riding on drops) and I am getting tingling hands. Swept back bars (like yours ) sound like the answer.

Also, your saddle is much higher than your bars, and yet you have a rising stem - was that another bike-fit adjustment? Sorry to sound nosy, but I am interested in the adjustments that people make to get their bike to feel right.

Cheers, John

 

[kevind]

Sorry this has nothing to do with your question, but I see that you have swept back bars on that supernova. I think that this bike is shipped with pretty much straight bars (6 degreees backsweep) but they look like 30 to 35 degrees backsweep. Did you change them yourself, If so, why - did you have tingling hands? Did you find that those bars fixed the problem?

I'm asking because I have just bought a bike with straight bars (after many,many years of riding on drops) and I am getting tingling hands. Swept back bars (like yours ) sound like the answer.

Also, your saddle is much higher than your bars, and yet you have a rising stem - was that another bike-fit adjustment? Sorry to sound nosy, but I am interested in the adjustments that people make to get their bike to feel right.

Cheers, John

Sorry this has nothing to do with your question, but I see that you have swept back bars on that supernova. I think that this bike is shipped with pretty much straight bars (6 degreees backsweep) but they look like 30 to 35 degrees backsweep. Did you change them yourself, If so, why - did you have tingling hands? Did you find that those bars fixed the problem?

I'm asking because I have just bought a bike with straight bars (after many,many years of riding on drops) and I am getting tingling hands. Swept back bars (like yours ) sound like the answer.

Also, your saddle is much higher than your bars, and yet you have a rising stem - was that another bike-fit adjustment? Sorry to sound nosy, but I am interested in the adjustments that people make to get their bike to feel right.

Cheers, John

I used to carry the dog in a box on the front - I lived very rural then - when she moved about it felt twitchy so that's when I got the bars. They are long (710mm) and make it easy to keep things stable. The bars are Jones H bars. I like them a lot and find them comfortable and stable and like the easy change of hand positions. They were frighteningly expensive for a bit of bent tube but now there seems to be more options at more reasonable prices out there. Yes, I changed the stem, even though the bike is xl I wanted a bit more sit back which I find more comfortable. I also put big pedals on. Peddling innovations catalyst. So the arch of your foot sits over the centre of the peddle. I like the feel of cycling like this. Am aware that others think its just chucking your money away on a gimmick. You pays your money and takes your choice Cheers. Kevin

 

[Nealh]

You can get a 99% copy now at Planetx called On one Geoff bars for £24.99 I have two and they are awesome and give great ride comfort whether commute, errand running, in or about town or on the rough stuff.

 

[kevind]

You can get a 99% copy now at Planetx called On one Geoff bars for £24.99 I have two and they are awesome and give great ride comfort whether commute, errand running, in or about town or on the rough stuff.

That's good to know. I'd never go back to having straight bars after having used these.

 

[Nealh]

I recently picked up some On one Mikes for £8.99 , no loop but 40 degree sweep and narrower at 640mm.
My slowly progressing Cotic Rat build.

Yes totally agree once tried one will never go back.

 

[Old Fart At Play]

I used to carry the dog in a box on the front - I lived very rural then - when she moved about it felt twitchy so that's when I got the bars. They are long (710mm) and make it easy to keep things stable. The bars are Jones H bars. I like them a lot and find them comfortable and stable and like the easy change of hand positions. They were frighteningly expensive for a bit of bent tube but now there seems to be more options at more reasonable prices out there. Yes, I changed the stem, even though the bike is xl I wanted a bit more sit back which I find more comfortable. I also put big pedals on. Peddling innovations catalyst. So the arch of your foot sits over the centre of the peddle. I like the feel of cycling like this. Am aware that others think its just chucking your money away on a gimmick. You pays your money and takes your choice Cheers. Kevin

Hiya..
That's great, ta v much. I've just ordered some Bontrager bars that are very like On One Mary bars, as the straight bars are giving me tingling hands. I may need to get longer stem as a result, but I'll wait and see.

I too think it is very sensible to tweak your bike so that it suits you better!

Cheers, John