Ah, so if I have trouble (expected), then I just remove alternate magnets - that’s easily done! Thanks.
Converting from Swytch to standard equipment
- Thread starter rig the jig
- Start date
but the whole set is chosen to hang well together. You'll end up killing prematurely what has not been upgraded.
Your patience in this is appreciated. If I get the KT36/48SVPR-EP02B, then connecting the motor is obvious as to which connector (see attached). The three-pin orange julet connector is either throttle or PAS, two-pin male is a puzzle - as is the nine pin. What are they? Surely there’s a web site somewhere that actually gives straight-up detail on these controllers.
Attachments
Yes, they hang well together, but you want an ebike control system that works well, not just hangs around in a bag. I always judge my ebike parts by how well they work and last, not by how nice they look.
I would always avoid the controllers with those moulded connectors. They're not needed, they have compatibility issues and you can't test anything because you can't get your probes on the pins when they're connected. Point 5 in my post #14 list. You need to read and disgest it.
I can see in Cisco-Man and NealH the same tinkerer's spirit and ability but would the OP (rig the jig) be looking for the same flexibility?
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No I'm not, I'm looking for a good quality solution that works, that won't stress me too much to set up. If necessary I can solder, but I hope I don't have to. Rig the jig
you can replace the battery with one that has more capacity like a 36V 15AH or 20AH and keep the rest like they are. It's an easy 15 minute job. Soldering is not required.
Thanks for quick reply , would you have a link to those items on Ebay just the controller and display. Thanks Rig the jig.
That's what I'd get. The motor would be OK with 17A, but the Swytch battery might not because it's very small. In that case, there should be the possibility to turn the current down a bit in the settings (C5). If not, the next option is to file a groove in the shunt, and if you don't want to do that, you can just use up to level 4 and no throttle, assuming you have it set to "torque simulation" mode. If you use your own battery, then make sure it can handle 17A.
Hi Cisco-man I'm just learning to use this site, would you have a link to the Ebay site with the 36V KT controller and display suitable for the swytch conversion. Thanks, Rig the jig.
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Hi. Here’s a link for the controller
Here’s the display
Here’s the PAS
Here’s the display
Here’s the PAS
Sorry.
here’s the display
here’s the display
KT-LCD5 LCD Display Meter Control Panel 24/36/48V For E-Bike Electric Bicycle | eBay
For 48V battery, LVC=40V, P5/3.77=2. It is a smart LCD. You need to install it on your E-Bike and pedal for 3-5 seconds. Then the LCD will show battery level normally. You can follow the KT-LCD3 manual to operate the panel.
www.ebay.co.uk
Hi Rig the Jig. I’m pretty sure this is a winning set of parts, but I’ve just pulled them off the web quickly this afternoon. i normally would spend an hour or two checking the detail to be sure. For instance, KT do various displays - I think I’ve read that the LCD5 is the best choice, but I’d normally research tha before buying.
My problem is I don't know these parts or what type of connections I need , and I cant see what type of connections are on the controllers.
tell us what you don't like in the old system. We'll tell you what you need to spend. Don't just follow the advice because it's given to you by knowledgeable members. It is easy for them to cobble together parts and they don't even need to read the manuals but you will have to look after the kit yourself.
Fully support what Whoosh is saying. I had mentally made note that you announced yourself in your first post as a techy. There is no easy path here - every step will need testing and some fettling e.g. this KT controller isn’t going to fit in your existing swytch holder.