Conversion kits and battery

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
OK, so it's one of those 500W direct drive motor kits. That explains the lack of climbing ability. What you need is a 500w geared motor, ideally running at 48v, but the complete kit would cost around £600 to £700. I'm guessing that you have a 22 amp controller and a battery capable of 25 amps.

I think you have two options. Option 1 is a 36V Xiongda 2- speed motor kit, which will cost about £250. The kit includes the motor, controller, PAS, throttle an LCD. You have to buy your own rim and spokes and lace the wheel yourself. That can be done yourself for £30. If you can find a bike shop to do it for you, they charge about £30 to £50 labour. If they provide the rim and spokes, probably £100. The Xiongda motor isn't particularly powerful, but when you come to a hill, it automatically changes down to a lower gear and winches you up at about 6 mph. The controller is only 15 amps, but a blob of solder on the shunt will increase it to around 18 amps to give more all-round performance.

Option 2 is a 500W Bafang BPM motor. It's a brute force approach. One of these motors at 36v and 30 amps or 48v and 20 amps will drag you up any hill. If you get one of these, you could try it with your existing controller and battery. Again, a small blob of solder on the shunt in your controller will increase the current to around 25 amps. That will give you a lot more climbing power than you have now. If you find that you still need more, you can replace your battery and controller with 48v ones at a later date, which will give you more power and a better control system. The motor will cost around £250 to £300 ready laced.


Make sure you tick 201 rpm. They have a nasty habit of sensing out sensor less versions, so ask them by email if it has hall sensors, then write in the special notes for your order that it must be with hall sensors.


Out of the two options, I prefer option 2 because you get a simple bolt-in solution that will probably give you what you need. Top speed will be around 15 mph. If you go up to 48v later, the speed will go up to 22 mph and you get 33% more climbing power, but that will cost around £400 extra. The motors don't care about voltage. The 48v 260 rpm version is identical to the 36v 201 rpm in all respects except the marking.

The advantage of option 1 is that it's completely legal.
 

Peter1972

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 3, 2019
12
4
OK, so it's one of those 500W direct drive motor kits. That explains the lack of climbing ability. What you need is a 500w geared motor, ideally running at 48v, but the complete kit would cost around £600 to £700. I'm guessing that you have a 22 amp controller and a battery capable of 25 amps.

I think you have two options. Option 1 is a 36V Xiongda 2- speed motor kit, which will cost about £250. The kit includes the motor, controller, PAS, throttle an LCD. You have to buy your own rim and spokes and lace the wheel yourself. That can be done yourself for £30. If you can find a bike shop to do it for you, they charge about £30 to £50 labour. If they provide the rim and spokes, probably £100. The Xiongda motor isn't particularly powerful, but when you come to a hill, it automatically changes down to a lower gear and winches you up at about 6 mph. The controller is only 15 amps, but a blob of solder on the shunt will increase it to around 18 amps to give more all-round performance.

Option 2 is a 500W Bafang BPM motor. It's a brute force approach. One of these motors at 36v and 30 amps or 48v and 20 amps will drag you up any hill. If you get one of these, you could try it with your existing controller and battery. Again, a small blob of solder on the shunt in your controller will increase the current to around 25 amps. That will give you a lot more climbing power than you have now. If you find that you still need more, you can replace your battery and controller with 48v ones at a later date, which will give you more power and a better control system. The motor will cost around £250 to £300 ready laced.


Make sure you tick 201 rpm. They have a nasty habit of sensing out sensor less versions, so ask them by email if it has hall sensors, then write in the special notes for your order that it must be with hall sensors.


Out of the two options, I prefer option 2 because you get a simple bolt-in solution that will probably give you what you need. Top speed will be around 15 mph. If you go up to 48v later, the speed will go up to 22 mph and you get 33% more climbing power, but that will cost around £400 extra. The motors don't care about voltage. The 48v 260 rpm version is identical to the 36v 201 rpm in all respects except the marking.

The advantage of option 1 is that it's completely legal.
Thank you very much for the information. Its much appreciated. I've never thought about a geared hub, So does that mean that if I use a geared hub I don't need to have any other gears installed on the bike like I do at the moment! Both options sound great for commuting. If you was to recommend something more powerful for off-road use what would I be looking at then.
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
A geared hub is a hub with a fixed reduction ratio inside. The Bafang BPM has 5:1. That gives a 5 times torque multiplier to the motor, which is why this motor, though a bit smaller than your present one, can winch you up hills much better. geared motors nearly always have a clutch as well, which disengages the motor when free-wheeling or when you pedal faster than what the motor goes, so it's much more pleasant. The Xiongda has a clever mechanism inside that switches the reduction from 1: 4.4 to 1 :7.8. It does it with a doble clutch and reversing direction. all done automatically by the controller.

Both motors have the threaded boss to screw on your freewheel gear-set, just like your present one. I's get a DNP 7-speed freewheel to go on it because you get a higher top gear.

How many speeds on your existing motor and does your shifting work?
 
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KirstinS

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 5, 2011
3,224
899
Brighton
Thank you very much for the information. Its much appreciated. I've never thought about a geared hub, So does that mean that if I use a geared hub I don't need to have any other gears installed on the bike like I do at the moment! Both options sound great for commuting. If you was to recommend something more powerful for off-road use what would I be looking at then.
VFR has answered in detail but on a higher level...no, a geared motor doesn't replace actual gears. What it does, in real terms, is reduce your demand on your battery and give you a free wheel ability ie no or little drag when pedaling without power.
 

Peter1972

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 3, 2019
12
4
A geared hub is a hub with a fixed reduction ratio inside. The Bafang BPM has 5:1. That gives a 5 times torque multiplier to the motor, which is why this motor, though a bit smaller than your present one, can winch you up hills much better. geared motors nearly always have a clutch as well, which disengages the motor when free-wheeling or when you pedal faster than what the motor goes, so it's much more pleasant. The Xiongda has a clever mechanism inside that switches the reduction from 1: 4.4 to 1 :7.8. It does it with a doble clutch and reversing direction. all done automatically by the controller.

Both motors have the threaded boss to screw on your freewheel gear-set, just like your present one. I's get a DNP 7-speed freewheel to go on it because you get a higher top gear.

How many speeds on your existing motor and does your shifting work?
It has 7 on the back and 3 on the front. The original rear had 8 so 2 to 8 work I think. I only currently use a few of the top gears.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
It has 7 on the back and 3 on the front. The original rear had 8 so 2 to 8 work I think. I only currently use a few of the top gears.
OK. The 7 speed DNP is the one you want then. Does your bike already have one? I know they supplied them with some motors. Count the teeth on the smallest cog. 11T is DNP, 14T is crap.
 

Peter1972

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 3, 2019
12
4
OK. The 7 speed DNP is the one you want then. Does your bike already have one? I know they supplied them with some motors. Count the teeth on the smallest cog. 11T is DNP, 14T is crap.
Yes I currently have the 14t on the smallest rear cog.