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Conversion for my sister

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She can't keep up with her husband and son, so I added a motor to her bike. The whole kit is only about 3.5kg, so not much weight to add to the bike, which is probably now about 15 or 16kg total. It certainly feels very light.

 

201 rpm 36v Q100 front motor (£100), 14A (adjustable) Brainpower controller from Aliexpress (£40), Home-made battery (£100), charger £25, rim, spokes, saddle bag, speed sensor, PAS and throttle about £45, so about £310 to convert.

 

forks are steel, so OK for a front motor.

 

Maybe someone can get some ideas from this:

 

Carolessbike.thumb.jpg.373acd2623c424c7af65d16280b1af8c.jpg

 

Carolessbike2.thumb.jpg.07ffa25a655c75d808e3368b64331c91.jpg

NEWS FLASH D8veh seen using mechanical rim brakes :eek:

 

Seriously, another tidy job though, I assume the contoller's in the bottle?

NEWS FLASH D8veh seen using mechanical rim brakes :eek:

And a crossed chain:eek:

Nice neat job.

Dave.

I know you're not being serious, but just to make it clear. I have nothing against rim brakes on a slow light-weight bike with a relatively light rider, but its a different matter when you have a 20 mph 20 kg plus bike and heavy rider.

 

Given the choice, I'd always choose hydraulic disc brakes on any of my own bikes. Whilst crappy rim brakes, like on the bike above, can be adequate. Brakes is one thing that really needs to be best, especially if you've already compromised your tyre grip by fitting Marathon Plus for puncture resistance.

I assume the contoller's in the bottle?

That's the battery d8veh made, it's great, I really want one of those.

Nice minimal and tidy looking setup.... like the bike in the background as well [emoji3]

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nice job, have you seen the Cytronex C1 kit? There was recently a review in A to B on this kit, they reckon this is by far the best power assistance kit on the market, and perhaps the best electric bike solution full stop. They even predict we will be looking back nostalgically at the heavy German electric bikes of today, now we have lightweight and precisely tailored travel solutions... Worth having a look I think!

(links removed by admin)

Edited by HelenJ

Nice job, have you seen the Cytronex C1 kit? There was recently a review in A to B on this kit, they reckon this is by far the best power assistance kit on the market, and perhaps the best electric bike solution full stop. They even predict we will be looking back nostalgically at the heavy German electric bikes of today, now we have lightweight and precisely tailored travel solutions... Worth having a look I think!

 

Check out the A to B review - http://www.atob.org.uk/product/a-to-b-118-digital-edition/

Here's a link to their site - https://www.cytronex.com/

Yes I did. My kit cost 1/3 of the Cytronex one, has a better control system, will probably be more reliable and will be easier and cheaper to fix if anything goes wrong. It's also lighter than the Cytronex.

 

Cytronex have always had bad luck - or is it bad judgement. The first kit had the Tongxin motor which couldn't handle any power and broke as soon as you turned the power up to the miserable maximum amount allowed, then they sold a derivative of the notoriously unreliable Keyde kit. Now they have a proven motor, but with a diabolical bespoke control system.

 

Take my advice: By all means do everything you can to make a lightweight system, but keep to proven technology and a modular design principle for easy servicing.

 

Also, you need to change your advertising, "There is no lighter electric bicycle".

You can't claim the lightest ebike when the Xiongda kit is lighter:

20170716_184123.thumb.jpg.6725e81e58d7a92ad3e56d901ff0e567.jpg

Yes I did. My kit cost 1/3 of the Cytronex one, has a better control system, will probably be more reliable and will be easier and cheaper to fix if anything goes wrong. It's also lighter than the Cytronex.

 

I did like their pedal sensor. Hope that other people should take on the idea.

BTW, I wouldn't trust that cabletie.

 

HowTo-Fit-Full-img-212.png

I did like their pedal sensor. Hope that other people should take on the idea.

BTW, I wouldn't trust that cabletie.

 

HowTo-Fit-Full-img-212.png

That's when it works!

She can't keep up with her husband and son, so I added a motor to her bike. The whole kit is only about 3.5kg, so not much weight to add to the bike, which is probably now about 15 or 16kg total. It certainly feels very light.

 

201 rpm 36v Q100 front motor (£100), 14A (adjustable) Brainpower controller from Aliexpress (£40), Home-made battery (£100), charger £25, rim, spokes, saddle bag, speed sensor, PAS and throttle about £45, so about £310 to convert.

 

forks are steel, so OK for a front motor.

 

Maybe someone can get some ideas from this:

 

[ATTACH=full]23747[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=full]23748[/ATTACH]

 

It's only that cheap when you exclude shipping cost and customs isn't it? For someone wanting it from scratch, price may double or you know a trick?

It's only that cheap when you exclude shipping cost and customs isn't it? For someone wanting it from scratch, price may double or you know a trick?

Those prices are what I actually paid, including shipping. Shipping was free on the controller. The motor was a bare motor and I bought it with other stuff, so shipping cost was low. £100 was an estimate, but I reckon I actually paid about £80 for it. It's price today if you bought it on it's own including shipping is exactly £100. The LG battery cells came from Ebay. The bottle came from Aldi, the BMS from Aliexpress and the rest of the stuff from Ebay. All costs are included.

That's a really nice conversion, very well done. I bet she is delighted.

 

Sent from my SGP771 using Tapatalk

That's a really nice conversion, very well done. I bet she is delighted.

 

Sent from my SGP771 using Tapatalk

She's a woman. They don't see these things quite the way we do. She seemed happy enough when she was trying it out last weekend, but I bet it hasn't been out of the garage since.

She's a woman. They don't see these things quite the way we do.

.

 

That's because it's not a tumble dryer or washing machine:oops:.

Can I be cheeky and ask, is the battery in the bottle or in the bag. Also, what size/configuration is the battery, I'm thinking of making mine discreet but was wondering how you managed such a neat finish.
Can I be cheeky and ask, is the battery in the bottle or in the bag. Also, what size/configuration is the battery, I'm thinking of making mine discreet but was wondering how you managed such a neat finish.

Years of mistakes :eek::cool:;)

Those prices are what I actually paid, including shipping. Shipping was free on the controller. The motor was a bare motor and I bought it with other stuff, so shipping cost was low. £100 was an estimate, but I reckon I actually paid about £80 for it. It's price today if you bought it on it's own including shipping is exactly £100. The LG battery cells came from Ebay. The bottle came from Aldi, the BMS from Aliexpress and the rest of the stuff from Ebay. All costs are included.

 

I may do that too then. I need a bike reliable and easy to service!!!

 

Did you buy the motor from bmsbattery? Why didn't you also buy the controller at the same time?

 

And where did you buy the controller and BMS? I may buy the exact same one.

 

For the phase / hall matching with controller, did you have to try them all one by one? I destroyed a couple of motor when trying to match them.

I bought the controller from Aliexpress because it was cheap and I wanted to try it out. The KT controllers are better. That's the S06S from BMSB, but they only do 36v. If you want 48v, you have to get them from PSWPower or Aliexpress.

 

The BMS is just a cheap one. I think I got it from Aliexpress, but they have them on Ebay too. Look at the picture in the link in my previous post to match it.

 

The controller I used is a dual mode with self-learning, so it detects hall and phase wires automatically. The only problem I had was that it was turning the motor backwards, so I reversed a coupke of phase wires to get the right direction.

 

I bought several of those controllers, and every one has different settings. It took me ages to find a manual for the settings, and even then, it took a lot of head-scratching to get them right. The main problem was that there are several illogical modes of operation between the throttle and pedal sensor. On one controller, on one setting, the PAS only worked once. As soon as you stoped pedalling, the PAS was disabled until you switched off and on again. On my sister's bike, there was a very gradual ramping up of power from the pedal sensor, so gradual that you couldn't tell that it was working. Eventually, I found a setting that increased the ramp to an acceptable level. On both of them, the speed sensor setting was set to ridiculously high level like 50 and a 100 pulses per revolution, so I couldn't get any speed on the display until I found the setting. In summary, there were lots of problems to overcome, and two controllers that were externally identical had completely different software and settings inside.

I bought several of those controllers, and every one has different settings. It took me ages to find a manual for the settings, and even then, it took a lot of head-scratching to get them right. The main problem was that there are several illogical modes of operation between the throttle and pedal sensor. On one controller, on one setting, the PAS only worked once. As soon as you stoped pedalling, the PAS was disabled until you switched off and on again. On my sister's bike, there was a very gradual ramping up of power from the pedal sensor, so gradual that you couldn't tell that it was working. Eventually, I found a setting that increased the ramp to an acceptable level. On both of them, the speed sensor setting was set to ridiculously high level like 50 and a 100 pulses per revolution, so I couldn't get any speed on the display until I found the setting. In summary, there were lots of problems to overcome, and two controllers that were externally identical had completely different software and settings inside.

 

now you can see why I use Lishui controllers.

There are no parameters for the customers to play with then get us to fathom out where they've gone wrong.

I bought the controller from Aliexpress because it was cheap and I wanted to try it out. The KT controllers are better. That's the S06S from BMSB, but they only do 36v. If you want 48v, you have to get them from PSWPower or Aliexpress.

 

The BMS is just a cheap one. I think I got it from Aliexpress, but they have them on Ebay too. Look at the picture in the link in my previous post to match it.

 

The controller I used is a dual mode with self-learning, so it detects hall and phase wires automatically. The only problem I had was that it was turning the motor backwards, so I reversed a coupke of phase wires to get the right direction.

 

I bought several of those controllers, and every one has different settings. It took me ages to find a manual for the settings, and even then, it took a lot of head-scratching to get them right. The main problem was that there are several illogical modes of operation between the throttle and pedal sensor. On one controller, on one setting, the PAS only worked once. As soon as you stoped pedalling, the PAS was disabled until you switched off and on again. On my sister's bike, there was a very gradual ramping up of power from the pedal sensor, so gradual that you couldn't tell that it was working. Eventually, I found a setting that increased the ramp to an acceptable level. On both of them, the speed sensor setting was set to ridiculously high level like 50 and a 100 pulses per revolution, so I couldn't get any speed on the display until I found the setting. In summary, there were lots of problems to overcome, and two controllers that were externally identical had completely different software and settings inside.

 

Thanks. I may get it all from bmsbattery. I don't want to spend time matching controller to motor

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