Controller pcb re wiring ?

[Nealh]

My Oxydrive integrated battery controller is now unbelievably noisy you can here me coming from 50 yds away, the controller is a solid state Luishi and very thin.
I have a fried 36v KT with 9 pin motor cable and 8 pin 4 in to 1 cable and a dual voltage S/W KT.
In practice how possible is it If I swap/splice the wiring from the duff one to the good one replacing a lot of spaghetti and wire connectors ?

The two KT's side by side.
Left one new controller with spaghetti, right duff one with 2 main wire cables.
The 9 pin motor wire is easy, I can cut and shut in side the controller case.


The 8 pin is not so straight forward 7 wires I can fathom out.


The following colours are labelled as such on both controllers
Blue / DM
Red / N
Black / G or G1
Yellow / RX
Grey / TS
Green / TX
White / S1
Mauve / TH on old controller, new dual model only has TV solder port.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are you saying that there's noise coming out of the controller/

 

[Nealh]

Yes, It is horrendous below 14.5 mph then quietens down above this speed, esp noticeable on gradients and really noisy on steeper inclines.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've never heard of that before. Are you sure that the noise isn't coming from the motor?

 

[Nealh]

On power level 1 its ok buy up the power level to 2 or 3 and boy it growls on any climbing, I don't need a bell peeps look around as they hear me.

 

[Nealh]

I've never heard of that before. Are you sure that the noise isn't coming from the motor?

You prompted me to do a quick check so I have just tried to replicate the torque as if climbing. Full speed with wheel of the ground and brake applied to create torque and you are right the noise is from the hub, the sound is resonating a long the frame to appear as if the controller is at fault.
At full speed the hub sounds sweet but blip the throttle and the sound can be heard and resonating along the frame.

 

[Nealh]

Looks like a hub opening to find the issue.

Edited ;
Striped the cst down to all but the bare bones, gear/clutch assembly looks fine plenty of gooey black grease in there. All bearings are sealed, bearing on disc side feels rough in rotation so new one needed. Two axle bearings appearing to be turning one I removed and felt fine though the nylon side had a slight distortion to it so will replace it as they are relatively cheap, the inner one is held by a circlip so unable to remove that without correct pliers. The large central bearing I removed and it rotated fine however giving it a shake I could the balls rattling inside so their appears to be play in there.
Fitted bearings are ;
6904RS x 1
6902RS x 2
6811RS x 1.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The noise comes from the motor, but it's cause is the controller. It's the commutation pulses that are bigger and longer when the motor goes slow. The level of noise is directly proportional to the current, so if you turned up the current at all, that would account for the noise.

Sine wave controllers have much gentler pulses. It's like the difference between knocking the motor round or pushing it round.

Your original idea is right to replace the controller with a sinewave one. To change the motor connector to the 9 pin is fairly straight forward, but it gets complicated after that. I think I'd be inclined to get the 17A controller from PSWpower, stick it in a bag in the triangle and run the cables externally. Get the whole kit with LCD, throttle and PAS. You'd need to cut the battery wires to the original controller and run then out of the box. The Oxydrive controller is potted with silicone, but it's possible to remove it from the box or, if you want. I think I have an empty one somewhere, where I already dug out the controller that you can have. It's possible that the PSWPower controller can be mounted in the box because the PCB mounting between the two systems is very similar and the PCBs are similar size.. The oxydrive one is basically a standard Lishui controller mounted in the Oxydrive box instead of a normal aluminium box.

The only thing you need to convert from your Lishui controller to the KT kit is the motor connector that matches your motor one. You can take it from the original controller or from that KT one in your photo.

Just to make it clear. You can't use the Oxydrive display with a KT controller, neither can you use the Oxydrive harness without a lot of wiring.

 

[Nealh]

Food for thought there d8veh .
I have a spare 20a PSWPower dual controller so will see if the pcb will sit in the Oxydrive controller box, ideally I would like to have the wiring a bit neater so will have a ponder.
Is 20a to much for the CST ? If so will have to get the 17a version. I have a couple of lcd's one a KT and the other a s -lcd3 from BMSB do you know if that would be compatible.
throttles/pas/speed sensors I have .

 

[Deleted member 4366]

All KT LCDs are compatible. 20A is not too much for the motor, but it might be too much for the battery or the battery connector.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Food for thought there d8veh .
I have a spare 20a PSWPower dual controller so will see if the pcb will sit in the Oxydrive controller box, ideally I would like to have the wiring a bit neater so will have a ponder.
Is 20a to much for the CST ? If so will have to get the 17a version. I have a couple of lcd's one a KT and the other a s -lcd3 from BMSB do you know if that would be compatible.
throttles/pas/speed sensors I have .

Go into the C parameter settings and set C5 to 08, your max current is now set to 17.4 A, 07 is 16.7 A if you prefer. All your assistance levels are now a percentage of this max current.

 

[Nealh]

I'm still toying with trying to see if I can rewire the 17a or 20a KT controller and lose the majority of the spaghetti, and install the 8 pin 4-1 wire loom. The aim is to combine 3 of the feeds, brake/s, throttle & lcd. Pas is easy and a Juliet rewire is no problem, like wise the 9 pin motor wire is easy to accomplish. I can ignore the speed sensor on the pcb as the cst has internal sensor so uses the white hall wire.
Having identified the following ( though I need to check again with dvm) any input if I'm wrong is most welcome.
8 pin 4 -1 colours :
Colour / PCB id / Function
Blue = DM = Controller Pwr.
Red = N = Battery.
Black = G = Ground.
Yellow = RX = ???.
Green = TX = ???.
White = S1 = Brake signal.
Grey = TS = Throttle signal.
Purple = TH = 5v.

Thumb throttle pcb.
Blue = Join to TS/Grey = Throttle signal.
Black = Ground.
Red = 5v.

Brakes pcb.
Yellow = Join to S1/White = Brake signal
Black = Ground.
Red = 5v.

So a couple of Q's.
The brake and throttle Gnd & 5v on the pcb, do they share a common pcb link or would I need to use a jumper from 5v to 5v and Gnd to Gnd for continuity.

2nd Q. In the pic below pcb position TV & TH ( partly obscured by white) look to have he same track (or am I wrong ?). Reason I ask is my dual voltage pcb doesn't have the TH location only a TV marked location.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Q1. All 5vs come from the 5v regulator wherever they are on the board. All grounds (black) are also common. You can prove that by putting your meter on continuity to check between them.

Q2. It looks like they're joined. Prove it with a continuity test.

 

[Nealh]

On todays ride out the controller was fairly quiet no where near as bad as the last time, having other bikes as well I try and use them all.
My 17a KT arrived last week so may leave a while for a winter project, also the 3 different size bearings arrived this week for the cst.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

On todays ride out the controller was fairly quiet no where near as bad as the last time, having other bikes as well I try and use them all.
My 17a KT arrived last week so may leave a while for when winter project, also the 3 different size bearings arrived this week for the cst.

Perhaps the motor is full of water, which is dampening the noise!

 

[Nealh]

A part from the grease it is bone dry inside.
When I do the conversion,I wont miss the 6 speed assists and the 3 torque modes. The 5 assist levels of the KT's are so much simpler and easier to toggle through and use.