I will try to send new pics tonight . Not sure if I can remove the controller from the bag . I don't want to damage anything.
Controller for viking freedom ebike
- Thread starter icm
- Start date
Maybe I missed it, but I don't remember walk assist being mentioned. Just in case it hasn't been tested, can you confirm whether it works or not. Hold the down button for more than 2 second to see if the motor turns the wheel.
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Icm mentioned 5mph throttle which I loosely call a walk assist, much the same without holding a button down.
I have an update from the bike shop. I will do the copy and paste literally.
"We checked the motor, battery, controller and also the wiring connections.
All parts were found to be working apart from the controller. We used a voltmeter and an alternative battery."
So it looks like they use the voltmeter to find out about the controller issue.
I will try to have a look tonight at the walk assist test.
"We checked the motor, battery, controller and also the wiring connections.
All parts were found to be working apart from the controller. We used a voltmeter and an alternative battery."
So it looks like they use the voltmeter to find out about the controller issue.
I will try to have a look tonight at the walk assist test.
They didn't describe a single test. From that I would guess that they don't know how to test an ebike or its controller.
If they knew about controllers, they'd say something like, " We tested that the resistance of all the mosfets were within the normal range and we checked whether there was 5v on the 5v rail when the controller was switched on.. We found that the 5v regulator was blown".
You will have to start measuring with the meter.
Morning to everyone,
I have good news I believe. I have tried the walk assist and it works. Does it mean that the controller is fine ?
After using the walk assist the controller is warm.
Attached are the new pictures of the controller that I managed to removed from the bag.
Thanks,
Ismael
I have good news I believe. I have tried the walk assist and it works. Does it mean that the controller is fine ?
After using the walk assist the controller is warm.
Attached are the new pictures of the controller that I managed to removed from the bag.
Thanks,
Ismael
Attachments
Walk assist working means controller is ok, being slightly warm should be normal as slow speed draws higher current which adds heat.
It is likely the bike has been knocked or fallen over and either the PAS or a brake sensor is at fault.
Your controller connections are typical of waterproof type, Black one is battery. No data cable which I assumed as they are fairly common with Lishui.
Cable tied to the battery wire is motor connector (5 pins), mid size connector with Black inner (8 pins ) is the main trunk cable connector (this supplies power to display, brake sensors, lights and throttle etc,etc not all may be used ) and small connector yellow inner (3 pins) is PAS.
Testing is tricky unless one knows how to, I doubt if the shop new what, how, where or why to test.
Connect everything up again.
Two areas I would look are:
1. PAS set up on the bottom bracket, it should be a simple sensor and magnet disc. (Show us a pic).
Ensure the gap is a bout 1mm.
Is there a Red led on the sensor ? If so in a darker place check that it blinks on/off as you rotate the cranks (make sure the bike is off the ground or up side down).
2. Check brake levers do they return to the fully off position, sensor/s fitted may be at fault and one is faulty. Trace the brake sensors to the waterproof 1t4 /1t3 connection near the head tube disconnect both, then try for bike operation.
If the bike works connection each brake in turn to find the one causing the fault.
It is likely the bike has been knocked or fallen over and either the PAS or a brake sensor is at fault.
Your controller connections are typical of waterproof type, Black one is battery. No data cable which I assumed as they are fairly common with Lishui.
Cable tied to the battery wire is motor connector (5 pins), mid size connector with Black inner (8 pins ) is the main trunk cable connector (this supplies power to display, brake sensors, lights and throttle etc,etc not all may be used ) and small connector yellow inner (3 pins) is PAS.
Testing is tricky unless one knows how to, I doubt if the shop new what, how, where or why to test.
Connect everything up again.
Two areas I would look are:
1. PAS set up on the bottom bracket, it should be a simple sensor and magnet disc. (Show us a pic).
Ensure the gap is a bout 1mm.
Is there a Red led on the sensor ? If so in a darker place check that it blinks on/off as you rotate the cranks (make sure the bike is off the ground or up side down).
2. Check brake levers do they return to the fully off position, sensor/s fitted may be at fault and one is faulty. Trace the brake sensors to the waterproof 1t4 /1t3 connection near the head tube disconnect both, then try for bike operation.
If the bike works connection each brake in turn to find the one causing the fault.
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OK, I'm with Neal on this one. Let's make simple steps. I'm just changing the words a bit to make it nice and clear:
1. Your bike should have brake a brake sensor on either or both the brakes, in which case a wire will come out of the brake somewhere. Follow each one until you come to a connector. Disconnect them and see if the problem goes away.
2. Look at the pedal sensor behind the chainwheel.
a) the gap between the magnet disc should be an even 1mm. If it's too far away, wiggle the disc until it's closer. see if that fixes it.
b) Look at the cable coming out of the sensor to see if it has any damage. It's very vulnerable if ever the chain jumps off.
It's more complicated to test with those connectors, but if the steps above don't reveal anything, we have to go forward with the meter. You will be able to do the meter tests. they're not difficult. Anyone can do them. It's just that you will have to undo a few screws. Don't lose confidence. We are making progress and close to a solution.
1. Your bike should have brake a brake sensor on either or both the brakes, in which case a wire will come out of the brake somewhere. Follow each one until you come to a connector. Disconnect them and see if the problem goes away.
2. Look at the pedal sensor behind the chainwheel.
a) the gap between the magnet disc should be an even 1mm. If it's too far away, wiggle the disc until it's closer. see if that fixes it.
b) Look at the cable coming out of the sensor to see if it has any damage. It's very vulnerable if ever the chain jumps off.
It's more complicated to test with those connectors, but if the steps above don't reveal anything, we have to go forward with the meter. You will be able to do the meter tests. they're not difficult. Anyone can do them. It's just that you will have to undo a few screws. Don't lose confidence. We are making progress and close to a solution.
Thank you guys for your help. I didn't know anything about ebikes . I am learning something I must say.
Ok , I am unable to find any sensor on the brakes . This bike use V-brakes so my question is if this sensor can be anywhere else ?
Regarding the magnet disc and the sensor. They were dusty with a bit of mud and I cleaned both with a dump cloth. I put outside down the bike to take the picture attached. They look ok to me , cable for the sensor looks good .
I am charging the battery again and I am planning to connect everything again this afternoon. I will let you know if there is any progress.
Ismael
Ok , I am unable to find any sensor on the brakes . This bike use V-brakes so my question is if this sensor can be anywhere else ?
Regarding the magnet disc and the sensor. They were dusty with a bit of mud and I cleaned both with a dump cloth. I put outside down the bike to take the picture attached. They look ok to me , cable for the sensor looks good .
I am charging the battery again and I am planning to connect everything again this afternoon. I will let you know if there is any progress.
Ismael
Attachments
Thanks , I found the brake sensors.
I have put the battery fully charged and connected the controller, all the connectors again. I have disconnected the brake sensors an tried the bike the PAS still not working . It works the walk assist.
I have also checked the sensor light in the botton braket and it blinks when I moved the pedals forward.
What does it mean exactly?
What is the next step please?
Thanks,
Ismael
I have put the battery fully charged and connected the controller, all the connectors again. I have disconnected the brake sensors an tried the bike the PAS still not working . It works the walk assist.
I have also checked the sensor light in the botton braket and it blinks when I moved the pedals forward.
What does it mean exactly?
What is the next step please?
Thanks,
Ismael
In the means that your pedal sensor is probably working, but we can't say definitely.
We now know that your motor works, the pedal sensor probably works, you motor cable is OK and properly connected, the controller has power and it's switched on and it's powered the 5v rail for the pedal sensor. Now it must be something to do with instructions/software.
Before going further, can you confirm that the LCD shows 4 mph or thereabouts when you operate the walk-assist.
Icm, I'm butting in quckly before going off to work.
Did the LED light blink on/off with the PAS sensor as you rotated the cranks ?
Beg pardon you said yes in #31 so ignore my post.
Did the LED light blink on/off with the PAS sensor as you rotated the cranks ?
Beg pardon you said yes in #31 so ignore my post.Everything is as it should be, but for whatever the reason, the controller doesn't seem to be getting the instruction to send power to the motor. That could be because it's not receiving the PAS signal or there's something wrong with the software. I can't see either of these problems coming for nothing overnight. I'm a bit mystified because we have most of the pieces of the jigsaw but some don't match.
Lets try setting the LCD back to its factory settings if you can. This manual says that the password is 1234. Page 7 from this manual.
Lets try setting the LCD back to its factory settings if you can. This manual says that the password is 1234. Page 7 from this manual.
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