Controller connection help needed

szeitz

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 1, 2010
6
0
Portsmouth
Hello all,
I have this controller, which is obviously from china. The instructions on it are no good as they are in chinese. Here is a pic of it:

As you could see from the pic, I've got the necesary connection connected to have it working (batteries, charger, switch, motor and speed control. But that's it. Don't know where the brake switch goes to. I have a 2 pin one. so don't know what are the other connections are.
From left to right: 3 pin connector with 2 wires ( orange/green+black), 2 pin connector with 1 wire (white/green), 4 pin connector with 3 wires (red,blue,purple), 2 pin connector with 1 wire(purple), 3 pin black connector with 3 wires (green,red,black), 2 pin connector woth 2 wires(black,red) and also there is a brown cable that's connected to itself (on top of the controller in the pic)



So I have no idea what these are for :(
Thanks in advance for any help or advice :)

*EDIT* Pic has been uploaded to a clean server, thanks for pointing that out NRG*
 
Last edited:

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
Warning: Clicking the image to see a larger version will also bring up a load of pornographic images along with it!
 

' ELECTRIC TRANSPORT SHOP

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 15, 2010
5
0
These are just guesses based on the controllers I've seen.

one or both of the two wire connectors could be the brake cut out switch. That should be easy to work out with the motor running make a connection between the two wires and see if it stops. Pedelec sensors have 3 wires so one of the 3 pin connectoins could be for this.

The one that's connected to itself could be either a restrict/de-restrict, a cruise control (hold throttle open for a few seconds, when you let go power remains, 'blip' throttle to cancel) enable/disable, or something completely different! Try it connected/ disconnected to see what happens. If nothing obvious happens I'd leave it as it came.

I'm afraid that's about as helpful as I can be.
 

szeitz

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 1, 2010
6
0
Portsmouth
These are just guesses based on the controllers I've seen.

one or both of the two wire connectors could be the brake cut out switch. That should be easy to work out with the motor running make a connection between the two wires and see if it stops. Pedelec sensors have 3 wires so one of the 3 pin connectoins could be for this.

The one that's connected to itself could be either a restrict/de-restrict, a cruise control (hold throttle open for a few seconds, when you let go power remains, 'blip' throttle to cancel) enable/disable, or something completely different! Try it connected/ disconnected to see what happens. If nothing obvious happens I'd leave it as it came.

I'm afraid that's about as helpful as I can be.
Hello, thanks for the advice.
I thought the one that was connected to itself would be either cruise control or restriction as well. I've tried running it disconnected as well as connected. nothing changed, top speed was still 32 km/h (I'm quiet heavy from going to the gym, hence I needed an ebike to be able to go to the gym, while biking a lot to and from work), 2nd option of being cruise control didn't seemed to work either as I tried holding the current speed, but when I let go of the throttle I noticed instantly that it got harder to pedal.

I'll try the 2 wired connectors to see if they are for the brake.
Thanks for the advice though
 

szeitz

Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 1, 2010
6
0
Portsmouth
Found a pretty similar controller on ebay with almost identical connections.
The ad suggests the the white single wire is low-brake (-V applied) and that the other single wire is for high-brake (+V applied). Now what voltage would that be? 5v from the controller or the 36V?

It also states that the singlewire connected to itself is a self learn thing. Should be unplugged when the controller is set up with the hub.

Also that the small black connector is for an extra battery. I assume it's like a boost sort of thing bc the controller would be able to handle the 48V beeing put through it as well. Bit just not sure how would it be wired since it's a 3 wired connector.

Well, this is it for now. Can not test anything at the moment.
Could anyone confirm any of that?

Thanks