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It's for a long winter journey, is it possible to connect a motorcycle heated waistcoat to a 36v bike battery? If so, what bits would I need to buy and solder?
I am not familiar with the heated waistcoat, but cars work at 12v and motorcycles at either 12 or maybe 6 v , so the arrangement would be serious overvoltaged. Lidl and Aldi do such products for pedestrians and they would be self contained.It's for a long winter journey, is it possible to connect a motorcycle heated waistcoat to a 36v bike battery? If so, what bits would I need to buy and solder?
That has the advantage of retaining range, I may well do that - at this rate I'll be covered in batteries!Why not just carry a portable USB in your pocket then you can remain warm if you also get off your bike... I wear a cheap £4 heat pad in sub zero temperatures and it makes a big difference.
Plus there are vests already designed for that powering technology.Why not just carry a portable USB in your pocket then you can remain warm if you also get off your bike... I wear a cheap £4 heat pad in sub zero temperatures and it makes a big difference.
I found the same with one of those yellow reflective jackets with the quilted lining:I find that a good windproof ski jacket is more than enough for me. sometimes so warm that I have to unzip it to cool down and I'm occasionally out in minus 5c or lower.
Feet and hands are the problem at those temperatures, two pairs of socks and gloves help and keeping arms and lower legs warm as possible is important.
A heated waistcoat would be more trouble than it would be worth to me.
Just my experience for what it's worth, we all have different needs.
TheI am not familiar with the heated waistcoat, but cars work at 12v and motorcycles at either 12 or maybe 6 v , so the arrangement would be serious overvoltaged. Lidl and Aldi do such products for pedestrians and they would be self contained.
The electronics required to efficiently reduce 36 to 12 are beyond a simple answer.
Maybe I'm missing something but I'm not seeing a huge problem here. A dc-converter(buck converter) will change 36v to 12v. If it's rated to a high enough current (ie more than the heated gear, with a decent margin) and fused then there shouldn't be a safety issue. Same principle as the usb charger in my car, which goes from 12v > 5v. No?
Those looks great! But I've got so many jackets - at least three puffy down-filled ones which I'd love to use on the bike, but they're not at all windproof and hate moisture; even the moisture which builds up when worn under a reflective hi-viz waterproof (I've got a xxxxL bright yellow waterproof which fits over the down-filled, but boy, does it look gigantic lol - it'd be hard to miss, even if you weren't aiming) (the breathable variety isn't sufficient either). Down-filled is extremely light, which is their main advantage, helps with range of course.I found the same with one of those yellow reflective jackets with the quilted lining:
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Yep, I'll be shot by S.W.A.T. on the outskirts of ManchesterJust a passing thought.
All those batteries strapped around your body may just give someone the wrong idea.
That's a very interesting idea! How do I test and charge recycled li-ion batteries? Are there products or kits ready made or assembled which would do the job of testing and charging them individually or in groups?Most of these things run off a USB power bank, which you can put in your pocket or anywhere else:
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Make your powerbank from recycled ebike batteries. You can probably get dead batteries from your local ebike shop because they have to pay to get rid of them.
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I wonder if it's the cold air you're breathing in that causes problems. I wear a scarf thing over my mouth which somehow takes the cold out of the air coming in.At my age, any chill to the chest can be deadly. It's -1C outside and I have just completed 19.7 miles (after fiddling with the firmware for maximum assistance at PAS 9) wearing a Craghopper waterproof over a Karrimoor down filled jacket and my chest so far feels fine - the down jacket isn't damp, but it was only 19.7 miles... In my experience, troubles happen a few hours after my chest has been exposed to intense cold, but I think this combination could work! I had a big hi-viz waistcoat over both, for added wind resistance. Much better combination than the other day... the aftermath wasn't pretty but that's too much detail from a too old codger. You'll all get here eventually.
That's a good point about cold air, but I think it's down to core temperature around the lungs - the resident cold virus (it's always there in the lungs and sinsues, even if you have zero symptoms) proliferates rapidly in cold temperatures. I've learned to keep my chest warm in winter. Down is extremely light and warm if kept dry, and the Craghopper waterproof is also windproof - the down jacket is neither. Keeping you warm, is all down jackets are good for. That being said, I should have worn my one layer cotton Covid mask to warm the air as you've suggested, but I chose big cycling anti-fog goggles with a plastic lower face mask instead... but as soon as the visor encountered -1C cold air outside, it fogged up instantly. So I discarded it through my letterbox and did 19.7 miles with max motor assistance at PAS Level 9. So easy compared to the other day! Those firmware adjustments really are worth doing.I wonder if it's the cold air you're breathing in that causes problems. I wear a scarf thing over my mouth which somehow takes the cold out of the air coming in.
I end up breathing quite hard sometimes as I try to use as little power as I can.
At 74 I'm also closing in on the old codger class.