Confused and looking for 48v 250w rear hub since Yose won't sell me 250w 36v kit with 15ah battery

[AntonyC]

Glad you agree, that's why I suggested those diagnostics. Levering the battery off will make it harder to test as it won't have the bike loading it or the chance to disturb the cradle and motor.

 

[throwawaychap]

I am back at last.

I've been busy, and at one point even sick in bed for a week and a half these past few months. But all is well now.

The bike is seemingly working again, after, I think of 2 months down time of me trying to troubleshoot what the issue was.

I must state that both Yose Power and Greenlance were excellent in terms of customer service with me, lightning fast communication and attentiveness.

After a lot of struggle I managed with wriggle the battery off the bike, it took many attempts along the course of a few weeks and a eureka moment of me flipping the thing upside down and trying to gently yet with force to remove it, and it worked.

And as I did, I immediately saw that one of the connectors of the battery cradle/mounting plate was damaged.

I then quickly got in contact with Greenlance and within an hour they got back to me to send the battery back so they could replace the 5 round gold pin connectors with the 4 straight pin style connectors - those look way more robust to me.

But that was only last week, I've since then tested the bike 4 times with quick 10 minute rides the past few days and it seems everything is working like normal.

Fingers crossed it stays that way, the bike had worked flawlessly prior to this issue.


I will admit, if I were more experienced with e-bikes I would probably have found what the issue was much earlier. It took weeks for me to realise the battery was stuck to the cradle - and that that was at least a hint to what the problem could be.

But you live and learn, that's life.


P.S.

I hope this post serves to help a future someone who ever has a similar issue.

 

[saneagle]

I am back at last.

I've been busy, and at one point even sick in bed for a week and a half these past few months. But all is well now.

The bike is seemingly working again, after, I think of 2 months down time of me trying to troubleshoot what the issue was.

I must state that both Yose Power and Greenlance were excellent in terms of customer service with me, lightning fast communication and attentiveness.

After a lot of struggle I managed with wriggle the battery off the bike, it took many attempts along the course of a few weeks and a eureka moment of me flipping the thing upside down and trying to gently yet with force to remove it, and it worked.

And as I did, I immediately saw that one of the connectors of the battery cradle/mounting plate was damaged.

I then quickly got in contact with Greenlance and within an hour they got back to me to send the battery back so they could replace the 5 round gold pin connectors with the 4 straight pin style connectors - those look way more robust to me.

But that was only last week, I've since then tested the bike 4 times with quick 10 minute rides the past few days and it seems everything is working like normal.

Fingers crossed it stays that way, the bike had worked flawlessly prior to this issue.


I will admit, if I were more experienced with e-bikes I would probably have found what the issue was much earlier. It took weeks for me to realise the battery was stuck to the cradle - and that that was at least a hint to what the problem could be.

But you live and learn, that's life.


P.S.

I hope this post serves to help a future someone who ever has a similar issue.

If you try to connect any Hailong type battery to its receiver when it's switched on, the current rushing into the controller's capacitors will burn the connectors. The round type are very thin. so burning is serious. The inrush current can even weld the two connectors together.

There should be a big label on every such battery telling you about this problem, but nobody seems to know about it unless they've suffered from the problem.

It's similar to plugging in the charger when you have the 5.5mm jack type connector. If the battery is switched on and the charger switched off, you can weld the jack in the socket, then when you try to pull it out, it pulls the side contact onto the middle one to make a dead short, and you'll see big sparks unless you have a 5 amp fuse on the charge socket that blows to save you, which is not that often.

 

[throwawaychap]

I had not the slightest idea about that.

What is odd is that I'm always paranoid about switching the battery off at all times - when I'm not using the bike.

And prior to say, I had only removed the battery 3 times at the most, basically the few occasions when I went to my local bank.

At work I don't need to since it's very safe and secluded.

Meaning I don't remember fitting the battery back in with it switched on. But it must have been the case.

And if agreed. There should be a label on every battery for sure!

 

[throwawaychap]

Talk about rotten luck. Need advice please.

More trouble this morning.

I was going to take the bike for another test drive just this morning, right away I noticed the bike wouldn't turn on.

I tested the battery light indicators (the ones on the battery itself) and pressed the button, blank. No lights would come on, not even the red ones.

Which is odd since I charged the battery to completion when I last used it, Sunday - it had come from the repair shop with about 38v or 39v. It had charged to 41.5v. Which was a number I'd never seen on this battery before, the most I saw was 41.4v back then.

I plugged the charger in and it was behaving strangely. The red and green light would alternate every 4 seconds or so. The charger's fan also went on and off accordingly. I made a point to take a video of it for reference.

I unplugged the charger, and the battery lights indicated full (all the way to the last green light). The charger was plugged in for about a minute and a half.

The bike turned on, I then proceeded to take it for a test ride and after half a block the bike turned itself off. The display went blank.

I pressed the button on the battery to see the indicator lights and no light would come on, again not even the red ones.


I never had this problem before, the battery always held charge, even in the months the bike was faulty. The lights always worked and the voltage remained consistent.

So this is a new issue.

This thing cost me £299. I wonder if I should straight up ask for a refund, because I am very very frustrated.

 

[saneagle]

Talk about rotten luck. Need advice please.

More trouble this morning.

I was going to take the bike for another test drive just this morning, right away I noticed the bike wouldn't turn on.

I tested the battery light indicators (the ones on the battery itself) and pressed the button, blank. No lights would come on, not even the red ones.

Which is odd since I charged the battery to completion when I last used it, Sunday - it had come from the repair shop with about 38v or 39v. It had charged to 41.5v. Which was a number I'd never seen on this battery before, the most I saw was 41.4v back then.

I plugged the charger in and it was behaving strangely. The red and green light would alternate every 4 seconds or so. The charger's fan also went on and off accordingly. I made a point to take a video of it for reference.

I unplugged the charger, and the battery lights indicated full (all the way to the last green light). The charger was plugged in for about a minute and a half.

The bike turned on, I then proceeded to take it for a test ride and after half a block the bike turned itself off. The display went blank.

I pressed the button on the battery to see the indicator lights and no light would come on, again not even the red ones.


I never had this problem before, the battery always held charge, even in the months the bike was faulty. The lights always worked and the voltage remained consistent.

So this is a new issue.

This thing cost me £299. I wonder if I should straight up ask for a refund, because I am very very frustrated.

Sounds like a faulty battery. If I had to guess, I'd say one or more welds have let go, or possibly a bad solder joint on a sense wire. See if you can measure any voltage in the charge socket, but be careful not to short your probes if it's the 5.5mm jack type.

 

[throwawaychap]

I'm back and calmed down.

Greenlance got back to me (I messaged them that very day) within an hour and promised to send me a brand new battery as soon as they had more 36v 20ah in stock.

They also supplied me a shipping label so I could send the faulty battery their way.

The new battery arrived today. I was just able to squeeze in a 5 minute test ride around the block before it got dark.

I reiterate that in terms of customer service I cannot fault Greenlance or Yose Power.
They are a 10/10 in that respect from me.

Now fingers crossed the bikes works without a hitch like before.
My first 4 months with the bike were magical.

 

[throwawaychap]

Quick update:

The bike is working normally as it should with the new battery Greenlance sent me.

I'm happy to have my bike again. Happy days.