Rather then trying to open the headlight can you simply not just trace the wiring to see if there how many go to the controller.
Complete conversion kit vs. replacing parts
- Thread starter Emily Joy
- Start date
Hi Neal,
The plan was to open up the headlamp where all the wires end up and join the original cables to the controller at that point.
Out of interest I have found the motor connector and listed the wires:
Thick Wires:
Yellow
Green
Blue
Thin Wires:
Black
Red
Orange
Green
Blue
Yellow
This is as good a place as any to store the info.
So so all the wiring ends up at the controller in the headlight.
I will mount the new controller behind the headlight so I can maintain as much as the original cabling as possible.
This bike has a torque sensor rather than a rotation sensor, it would be neat if I could keep that feature but I'm not sure these KT controllers would handle that.
I'm getting quite into your forum now and I've added to a couple of other threads, I just hope I'm not repaeting myself too much.
Cheers!
The plan was to open up the headlamp where all the wires end up and join the original cables to the controller at that point.
Out of interest I have found the motor connector and listed the wires:
Thick Wires:
Yellow
Green
Blue
Thin Wires:
Black
Red
Orange
Green
Blue
Yellow
This is as good a place as any to store the info.
So so all the wiring ends up at the controller in the headlight.
I will mount the new controller behind the headlight so I can maintain as much as the original cabling as possible.
This bike has a torque sensor rather than a rotation sensor, it would be neat if I could keep that feature but I'm not sure these KT controllers would handle that.
I'm getting quite into your forum now and I've added to a couple of other threads, I just hope I'm not repaeting myself too much.
Cheers!
Yes you can't use the TS unless you get a compatible TS controller. TS controllers for hubs aren't common, but kits are available.
Bafang do a TS kit for hub drive for about £171, inc lcd , BB and everything else you need. How good it actually is I don't know or if it's worth it.
KT make a TS controller but only available with a BB conversion kit.
Bafang do a TS kit for hub drive for about £171, inc lcd , BB and everything else you need. How good it actually is I don't know or if it's worth it.
KT make a TS controller but only available with a BB conversion kit.
Last edited:
Three thick wires are the phase.
6 thin wires are the hub sensor wires.
Black /Gnd.
Red /5v.
Orange is likely the hub speed sensor.
G, Y & B are the main sensors A,B & C.
The three thick and thin G,Y & B are the 6 wires that sync the hub or a mid drive to work correctly, in all there are 36 combo's and only a few (3 or 4 ) will work correctly.
KT controllers don't have learn wires so the process is a bit more involved if the motor runs rough when the wires are connected colour to colour.
KT controllers don't have learn wires so the process is a bit more involved if the motor runs rough when the wires are connected colour to colour.
Hi Neal,
I'm glad I've found out about the KT controller. I found out about it first on the Blog that appears at:
www.avdweb.nl
I'm hoping that the schematic diagram will help me get it right first time.
I know from experience, that nothing ever works 1st time
I'm glad I've found out about the KT controller. I found out about it first on the Blog that appears at:
Gazelle rebuild
Here, I share technical solutions that arised during the development of my solar-bike.
I'm hoping that the schematic diagram will help me get it right first time.
I know from experience, that nothing ever works 1st time
Looks like the speed signal /hall is Brown in the blog, so guess your Orange one is the new Brown that would wire to the White of the KT.
For after market combos the KT's and LCD3 are a hard act to beat generally.
Luishi are another good set up but these are OEM only and you will not often find them individually for sale unless you buy a kit with them or approach Woosh bikes who may offer a deal.
For after market combos the KT's and LCD3 are a hard act to beat generally.
Luishi are another good set up but these are OEM only and you will not often find them individually for sale unless you buy a kit with them or approach Woosh bikes who may offer a deal.
Hi Daniel,
I suppose its orange on mine because its a dutch bike
I think I will stick to the KT as that is the one in the blog and its very mainstream.
Do these kits generally come with the mating blocks to the connectors?
I would imagine its going to be quite a phaaf to try and source them.
I cant actually imagine they don't come like that.
I shall have to get my soldering iron warmed up and find my crimp tools and bullets.
I haven't touched that stuff in years. But in a past life wetting the soldering iron sponge was an every day occurrence.
I suppose its orange on mine because its a dutch bike
I think I will stick to the KT as that is the one in the blog and its very mainstream.
Do these kits generally come with the mating blocks to the connectors?
I would imagine its going to be quite a phaaf to try and source them.
I cant actually imagine they don't come like that.
I shall have to get my soldering iron warmed up and find my crimp tools and bullets.
I haven't touched that stuff in years. But in a past life wetting the soldering iron sponge was an every day occurrence.
All controllers come preconnected so if anything is not the same you have to change the odd connector or solder the wires directly once you know the wire order sequence is correct.
Hi Daniel,
I know the controllers all have connectors and terminals ....
but do they have a kit of "empty" connector blocks that mate to them so I can terminate my leads with matching connectors?
I know the controllers all have connectors and terminals ....
but do they have a kit of "empty" connector blocks that mate to them so I can terminate my leads with matching connectors?
Not Daniel but Neal.
No you have to source connectors to match, find other types Male/Female or solder wires direct.
No you have to source connectors to match, find other types Male/Female or solder wires direct.
Long time no see it is so nice to come back and see the thread is up again.
Indeed, Woosh was very kind to upgrade the bike last year and for a while it worked perfectly... until the motor developed an habit of cutting off suddenly, sometimes it doesn't start at all.
It's a bit hard to understand what is happening, but my observations are the following.
1) motor seems to cut off if I go over 15mph, which happens when I cycle downhill easily - the trouble is that it doesn't start again. Alas my hometown is very hilly.
2) In the above situation sometimes resting helps. That is if I stop for 5 minutes or so, the motor starts again
3) Sometimes without any particular reason it seems to cut off firstly for very short periods of time, like a few seconds but I still can feel it.
4) From time to time I just cannot start it at all. In this situation, however, it sometimes helps to turn the front light on (using the original gazelle controller).
5) The front light which is powered from the same battery is always working.
6) The "generic" replacement controller always shows indicator lights as usual - except for the battery indicator. When the motor doesn't start, the battery indicator light always shows full charge.
Is it likely to be loose connection or something more serious?
it is so nice to come back and see the thread is up again. Indeed, Woosh was very kind to upgrade the bike last year and for a while it worked perfectly... until the motor developed an habit of cutting off suddenly, sometimes it doesn't start at all.
It's a bit hard to understand what is happening, but my observations are the following.
1) motor seems to cut off if I go over 15mph, which happens when I cycle downhill easily - the trouble is that it doesn't start again. Alas my hometown is very hilly.
2) In the above situation sometimes resting helps. That is if I stop for 5 minutes or so, the motor starts again
3) Sometimes without any particular reason it seems to cut off firstly for very short periods of time, like a few seconds but I still can feel it.
4) From time to time I just cannot start it at all. In this situation, however, it sometimes helps to turn the front light on (using the original gazelle controller).
5) The front light which is powered from the same battery is always working.
6) The "generic" replacement controller always shows indicator lights as usual - except for the battery indicator. When the motor doesn't start, the battery indicator light always shows full charge.
Is it likely to be loose connection or something more serious?
Hi Emily,
Next time when the motor stops abnormally, try switching the battery off, count 1 to 10 and switch the battery on again to see if the problem goes away.
please email support@wooshbikes.co.uk if you need help with this.
Next time when the motor stops abnormally, try switching the battery off, count 1 to 10 and switch the battery on again to see if the problem goes away.
please email support@wooshbikes.co.uk if you need help with this.
Thanks! I presume to switch the battery off one has to disconnect it? Switching something off via a controller (either of them) just doesn't help.
You mention the battery level on the 790 LED panel.
You said it shows all bars when the system stopped, do you mean that before it stopped, the LED panel showed fewer than 4 bars? the LED panel should have shown the same number of bars before and after the motor stops.
Switching the battery off resets the 790 and lets us test a possible diagnosis.
It's a fairly cheap part (£15) and easy to replace.
You said it shows all bars when the system stopped, do you mean that before it stopped, the LED panel showed fewer than 4 bars? the LED panel should have shown the same number of bars before and after the motor stops.
Switching the battery off resets the 790 and lets us test a possible diagnosis.
It's a fairly cheap part (£15) and easy to replace.
One (the most common scenario) is the following. I cycle happily using the motor mainly when going uphill. At some point the battery indicator indeed shows less than 4 bars, say only 3. I decide to switch the assistance off by pressing the red on/off button (not sure if this is the right way). Then - when I need it again I try to switch it on using the same button - and then the LED panel shows all 4 bars, but the power assistance doesn't start. Disconnecting the battery doesn't seem to help.
the 4 LEDs of the battery meter indicates the live voltage at that moment in time. When you go up a steep hill, the bike draws more current and causes the voltage to sag. You lose a LED or two, that's normal, when it gets less steep, the demand on the battery diminishes, the battery's voltage recovers and you should get the LEDs lit again. That's normal behaviour and does not hurt your battery, not permanently, even if it's a big and long climb. If you don't switch off, how often the bike misbehave?
I have been away and the bike spent about 15 days in the garage with the battery attached, but obviously switched off. I decided to go cycling tonight for about 6 miles and couldn't switch the motor on no matter what I did... so currently it misbehaves...
The LEDs on the battery and both controllers come on fine. The front light switches on and works fine.
it's time to open the new controller box and take a look.
I'll email you on Monday when I get back to work.
I'll email you on Monday when I get back to work.
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