Hello I have few other posts in relation to this topic but I have narrowed things down now. I would like to get people's experience of using a FS and HT for commuting on roads only. The bike is mainly for commuting and secondary purpose is fun at the weekends. I just cannot seem to decide between the two. Am I right in thinking there are no limitations other than rear guards on FS?
Commuting on roads on FS and HT
- Thread starter Nolan
- Start date
You need a hybrid as a minimum for the road, will also cope pretty well off-road too as long as it's not too extreme. The MTB's will be the wrong bike for your needs I'd say.
how about riding position?
Sit up is better for commuting, you don't have to pedal hard at all with a cadence sensored bike.
If you worry about the suspension, fit a good suspension seat post like the SP12 NCX
Sit up is better for commuting, you don't have to pedal hard at all with a cadence sensored bike.
If you worry about the suspension, fit a good suspension seat post like the SP12 NCX
Normally I would agree, but given the assistance form the motor and I will not be derestricting it, all ebikes will get to 15/16 mph. Hybrids and off road will not work for me, just didn't want one bike just for one use.
I have used both HT and FS for road riding..
HT .. Generally a bit lighter, may have mounting points for guards, rack and kickstand but I have jarred my back a few times when hitting a pothole I hadn't seen.
FS.. Generally a bit heavier, wont have any mounting points for guards etc but oh so much more comfortable and relaxing to ride on bumpy roads.
In my case I now have an FS bike and have been able to fit rudimentary guards, a rear rack and panniers and auto lights that come on when it gets dark but a kickstand hasn't been added as yet..
HT .. Generally a bit lighter, may have mounting points for guards, rack and kickstand but I have jarred my back a few times when hitting a pothole I hadn't seen.
FS.. Generally a bit heavier, wont have any mounting points for guards etc but oh so much more comfortable and relaxing to ride on bumpy roads.
In my case I now have an FS bike and have been able to fit rudimentary guards, a rear rack and panniers and auto lights that come on when it gets dark but a kickstand hasn't been added as yet..
thanks for youR reply and photos, very helpful. What rack and mud guard are you using on the FS, that's thumbs up for the FS then!
Definately a thumbs up from me for FS over HT.
Unfortunately good stuff isn't cheap and to fit both need a bit of modification because they both needed the same area on the stay to mount to. Got around this by using the rack mounting bars the wrong way around and permanently removing the rear reflector which i must say I didn't like doing on an expensive item, especially as my diy skills are not to A level std. End result is sturdy enough to carry 4kg in one bag without issue.
https://www.thule.com/en-gb/gb/bike-accessories/rear-bike-racks
https://www.themudhugger.co.uk/
A lot depends on your budget. I already had the bike...
I have taken this one for an 18 km (each way) spin. I don't like the feeling of losing part of my hard effort when riding up hill. Comfort wise My NCX seat post is just as good.
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/boriginal-700-electric-bike-id_8353006.html
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/boriginal-700-electric-bike-id_8353006.html
It is absorbed by the rear suspension, you can feel the bike "squatting down" when you apply considerable effort. That energy going into the suspension isn't going into making you go forward which is why there is lockout on suspensions in the first place.
Ah. Mine doesn't do that, I have a lever on the bars that switches between full lock, mid point and fully loose for both forks and rear suspension and even on fully loose there is no bob unless I stand up which I never do..
I usually have it mid point and even on steep hills it diesnt bob.
I would think it would. Whenever You see someone bobbing up and down it's on a cheep bike.
The Thule is about €75 from bike.discount, don't forget to order 2 sides for panniers. I also bought pair of quality Vaude panniers(2x24L) for €75. Thule rack is weight limited to 11kg compared to 25kg racks on most HT racks. Shouldn't issue for commuting.
See my Powerfly 7 HT review(review section) for full mudguards, SKS do 27.5 set. Front will work FS, might be able to make rear work, at €10 cheap enough to try.
Head light that runs off bosch system should be straight forward. Both Bike.discount and bike24 do bosch cables and good range of lights (€20-€300).
I'd fit quality usb chargeable tail light to rack instead of Bosch powered one, no cables to disconnect if removing rack.
Ask shop to enable lights and walk mode (trek disable it) on Bosch system.
Ride quality over rough unsealed tracks is far superior on FS. My climbing speed on CX powered FS is limited by power or 25kmh cutoff, rarely by track surface. On HT track surface quite oftens limits speed, quality suspension post like suntour NCX helps but doesn't compare to FS.
No
Because the power is on the down stroke obviously
This action is what compresses unlocked rear supension
The seat post compesssion doesn't happen on the down stroke it just supports you so you dont lose any of your power stroke with a suspension post
Find rough bridle track how see how your two ebikes go back to back.Challenge excepted lol
Maintenance aside, my biggest complaint about full suspension bikes, is pedal strike. Not something that I have once experienced on any of the three hardtails that I have owned, but have suffered with it on many an occasion on the full suspension bikes that I have either owned or ridden.
Judging by the amount of people looking for or have changed pedal crank length on full suspension bikes, I'm far from alone with that experience.
I had a very cautious ride yesterday evening on the Scott FS, trying to avoid pedal strike on a very familiar rock garden climb, that presents no problem at all on the hardtail. It made for a very careful climb, which still resulted in several strikes and several stops because of it.
This was the climb.
.
Judging by the amount of people looking for or have changed pedal crank length on full suspension bikes, I'm far from alone with that experience.
I had a very cautious ride yesterday evening on the Scott FS, trying to avoid pedal strike on a very familiar rock garden climb, that presents no problem at all on the hardtail. It made for a very careful climb, which still resulted in several strikes and several stops because of it.
This was the climb.
.
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Not the NCX, as long as you are pedaling on the smooth it doesn't move a mm. When you hit a bump the parallelogram moves the seat backwards and downdownwards absorbing the shock.
I would think the simple pogo stick ones on the other hand absorb quite a bit of pedaling power.
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