Changing headset on Kalkhoff Pro Connect

[oriteroom]

My wife's step through Pro Connect (2008) has developed 'indexing' of the headset after some 9,000 miles, such that there is a subtle resistance/preference to fix the steering at straight ahead. I assume to fix it, it will need new cartridge headset bearings. My question is does anyone have experience of replacing the headset on Pro Connects from this era, how easy it is, and where to source suitable replacement headset. I've viewed YouTube and it doesn't look too difficult with the threadless headsets, easier than the old days when, as a boy, all the ball bearings fell out on the floor. The key seems to be getting the old bearing out, and getting the right replacement.
Any advice would be welcome. Thanks..

Mike

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Headsets are standard, so you can choose any one you want as long as it's 1 1/8". They're not difficult to fit except the bits that go in the steering tube can be a bit tight to get started. Use a block of wood and a big hammer with the other end of the tube supported, or you can jack the two ends in with a a bit of threaded bar, two nuts and two plates with holes in. You can get the old ones out by tapping them evenly from the inside with a hammer and screwdriver. The last and tightest is the bit that sits on the bottom of your fork steerer. It has a small notch in it (two if you're lucky) to get it started. hammer in a screwdriver and then stat levering. It sits on a slight shoulder, so once you've moved it a couple of mm, it moves more easily.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.X1 1/8 headset&_nkw=1 1/8 headset&_sacat=0&_from=R40

If you're very lucky, it'll have removable bearings like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headset-Bearings-for-Road-MTB-1-1-8-/181423455840?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2a3dae3e60

 

[oriteroom]

Thanks d8veh for a really helpful reply. Will now be able to have a go. I was a bit surprised why the indexing occurred, we never ride in bad weather, we can get wet but not the bikes! She's probably been bouncing over too many potholes!

Thanks again.

 

[grldtnr]

I think 9000miles over 5-6 yrs respectable! headsets easily get 'indexed' if a lack of grease in the ball races, or if overtighted.

 

[JamesC]

Hi Mike
d8veh has covered pretty much all you need, but I am adding a few pics from doing the work on a 2008 ProConnect diamond frame. I am assuming that Mrs O's stepthru uses the same headset.

The ProConnect head tube


The head tube is for a Semi-Integrated, Zero Stack, Cane Creek style 1 1/8th inch headset

The original headset is by VP componets, VP-A41AC



The top and bottom bearings (shown at either end of the bottom row) are identical and are the cartridge type with the ball bearings contained within.
These are pressed into the head tube.

The "crown race" is the ring in the centre of the bottom row (shown upside down). This is a tight fit at the bottom of the steerer tube which rises up from the fork. You can just see the black crown race on the steerer tube in this pic of the grey ProConnect fork.



The "crown race" provides a centralising taper that locates into a matching taper in the head tube bearing. If you purchase the original headset bearings, you won't need to replace the crown race as there is no wear taking place.

For reference, the crown race is a tight fit on the short section of 30mm diameter at the base of the steerer tube.

You will probably be able to get the original headsets from 50cycles.
Alternatively on ebay from HongKong but it takes 15 days or so.
VP-A41AC.

The taper ring shown in the headset pic with the cut in it slides down the steerer tube into the top head bearing, and is pressed down into position when the head bolt is tightened down at the end of assembly.

James

 

[oriteroom]

Thanks James, excellent. A couple of piccies etc is always very reassuring, and gives me a bit of confidence. Last time I did it was when ball bearings used to spill all over the floor!

 

[tillson]

I'm just in the process of fitting new forks and will be fitting a new headset at the same time.

Any top tips for fitting the crown race onto the steerer tube, making sure that it goes on evenly and sits fully down at the base of the tube?

Thanks

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

I'm just in the process of fitting new forks and will be fitting a new headset at the same time.

Any top tips for fitting the crown race onto the steerer tube, making sure that it goes on evenly and sits fully down at the base of the tube?

Thanks

saw a slot in it, so that its easy to get on and off, and it'll be dead easy.

 

[tillson]

Thanks for that. Now where did I leave my Junior Hacksaw?

 

[shemozzle999]

or measure the race then buy some suitably sized aluminum tube to tamp it down square, then sell it on, for example :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Round-Tube-8mm-10mm-12mm-15mm-16mm-20mm-22mm-25mm-30mm-35mm-40mm-45mm-/271400179192?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&var=570269168515&hash=item3f30b615f8

 

[oriteroom]

Hi tillson. Didn't have to replace headset in the end as a slight slackening of the headset stopped the indexing. I did get the headset that James C suggested from China (good sevice) and it's waiting in the shed until needed. Best wishes. Mike

 

[neptune]

You can "bodge" a headset to keep it going until you have time to do it properly. Slacken the bearings a little if possible. Put some 90 grade gear oil into a squirt can.Lay the bike over, and drip the oil into the bearings. Being a thick oil, it will lube then bearings for quite some time. It also mixes with, and partly liquidates, any remaining grease in the bearings, and helps redistribute it. Readjust bearings if you slackened them. If done as described, this will keep you going for up to a year. Also works as a temporary fix for wheel bearings.

 

[JamesC]

I'm just in the process of fitting new forks and will be fitting a new headset at the same time.

Any top tips for fitting the crown race onto the steerer tube, making sure that it goes on evenly and sits fully down at the base of the tube?

Thanks

Fitting the crown race to the new fork is likely to be the first job on the new fork, and takes only a couple of hammer blows with the correct fitting tool.

Very likely your local bike shop would do this for you if you pop in with fork and crown race.

I would not be happy with the saw cut approach in the bottom crown ring. All the upward forces are transmitted from the crown ring taper to the bearing taper as you pound along the rough tracks and kerbs, causing fretting between the cheap crown ring and quite an expensive fork.

Certainly the upper clamping ring is slotted, but there are minimal downward forces involved.

James

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

Hi James.

Many of the top firms who make Headsets as a business slot their crown races, and every workshop I've worked in, in bike shops has done this for years.

There are no downsides and it makes removing said race later a piece of cake.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/hope-crown-race/rp-prod2095?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_name=UnitedKingdom&gs=1&gclid=CP_tqMbSmMICFcjLtAod0xQAeA&gclsrc=aw.ds

http://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/crown-race-1-1-8-oversize-taper-type.htm

 

[tillson]

I have fitted a new set of forks, but the crown race on the old set would not come off without damage. So I have fitted new headset bearings and crown race with the new forks. The original bearings were in good condition and still serviceable, but they have done high mileage so nothing is lost by replacing them.

This thread has been a useful guide and the whole job has been relatively straight forward. 50 Cycles stock the headset bearings and I received them in less than 24 hours from time of order.

I have cut the crown race (I was probably cutting it at the same time as James was typing), so I hope that works out ok. Opinion,like my crown race, also seems to be split over whether this is a good idea.

Thanks all for contributing knowledge and diagrams. I find these jobs straightforward to carry out in practice, but the termanology can be confusing in the initial stages. A bit of explanation and a few pictures help tremendously.

 

[RobF]

I have fitted a new set of forks, but the crown race on the old set would not come off without damage. So I have fitted new headset bearings and crown race with the new forks. The original bearings were in good condition and still serviceable, but they have done high mileage so nothing is lost by replacing them.

This thread has been a useful guide and the whole job has been relatively straight forward. 50 Cycles stock the headset bearings and I received them in less than 24 hours from time of order.

I have cut the crown race (I was probably cutting it at the same time as James was typing), so I hope that works out ok. Opinion,like my crown race, also seems to be split over whether this is a good idea.

Thanks all for contributing knowledge and diagrams. I find these jobs straightforward to carry out in practice, but the termanology can be confusing in the initial stages. A bit of explanation and a few pictures help tremendously.

Good effort, tillson.

It's not a job I'd fancy taking on, even with helpful pics and diagrams.

 

[tillson]

I have changed the forks on my ageing Pro Connect and renewed the headset bearings at the same time.

I have installed a set of Suntour NEX suspension forks. These are not top quality forks, but I think they will be perfectly adequate for 99% road use. I chose them because they accept my existing mudguards without any sort of bodge being necessary, they are intended for disk brake use, they match the colour of my bike, they didn't have unsightly rim brake mounts and they were fifty quid off Ebay.

The main reason for changing the forks was to switch to a disk brake on the front wheel. I have installed a Shimano XT M785 caliber and lever combined with a Shimano XT RT76 rotor. The M785 is a mountain bike style lever, i.e. short. They do a variant called a XT T785, the T standing for trecking and this has a longer, more conventional brake lever. I like the shorter version. This, together with a post to IS mounting adaptor brought the total for the brake to £75 (Chainreactioncycles.com)

The front wheel is a Raleigh 700c x 17mm with 6 bolt disc rotor mount. It is supposed to be hand built, which I doubt that it is, and it cost £48 from the local Raleigh factory.

The SKS to Suntour mudguard brackets were 99p delivered from The Edinborough Cycle Cooperative. (Great service and free delivery on everything)

With the headset, rim tape and above parts, the conversion has cost about £200.

Add to this a new 18Ah battery and charger which I have just bought (£420) and the £100 which I spent on a new motor in May, this brings my expenditure on the bike to £720 this year.

I purchased the bike in June 2008 and have done a little over 19000 miles on it since then. During this time, I have spent very little on the bike apart from consumables which apply to any bike.

It now has a brand new 18Ah battery, a motor with less than 1000 miles on it and a new disk brake equipped front end. £720 may seem like a lot to spend on a 6 1/2 year old bike, but it suits me perfectly and I hope to get several more years of use from it.

I have not been far since fitting the disk brake, but it was simple to set up and seems very smooth and progressive in operation. I have always struggled with rim brakes, mostly with uneven action from one side to the other, making adjustment a pain in the ..... I am so glad to be finally rid of one set of Magura brakes. I can't do much about the rear set because the frame isn't intended to accept a disk brake caliber.

 

[oriteroom]

Hi tillson,

Great pictures and a really great job you've done. Sure looks like a really well cared for bike given the mileage etc. do you commute in all weathers?, if so even more remarkable. My ProConnect is same vintage, but only 9,000 miles 'on the clock (put the rest of mileage (5000m on my ProConnect S 2011 vintage). My wife's clocked up 12,000 on her Proconnect. All fair-weather miles, we can get wet but not the bikes! We really like the look of the earlier Kalkhoffs, compared to the more recent incarnations (particularlycompared to the Paisley decorated Agattu of last year). The white/grey frames etc. really stand out, and we are endless attracting comments and questions when my wife and I are out cycling.

Batteries doing pretty well. All three have been charged about 100 times. Two take full charge but, the battery on my original ProConnect is down to 4 lights on the cell test. However, it still takes just over 9amp recharge.

Good prices for battery/charger and new motor. What happened to your motor? Where did you source the new one (in case I ever need to do the same). Where did you source battery. 50cycles only do 26v 8 and 24 amp now. In that case it's not worth worrying about my battery given it still takes over 9amp.

Best regards
Mike

 

[oriteroom]

Hi tillson,

Meant to ask ..... What's the small box on the carrier?

Mike

 

[tillson]

Hi tillson,

Great pictures and a really great job you've done. Sure looks like a really well cared for bike given the mileage etc. do you commute in all weathers?, if so even more remarkable. My ProConnect is same vintage, but only 9,000 miles 'on the clock (put the rest of mileage (5000m on my ProConnect S 2011 vintage). My wife's clocked up 12,000 on her Proconnect. All fair-weather miles, we can get wet but not the bikes! We really like the look of the earlier Kalkhoffs, compared to the more recent incarnations (particularlycompared to the Paisley decorated Agattu of last year). The white/grey frames etc. really stand out, and we are endless attracting comments and questions when my wife and I are out cycling.

Batteries doing pretty well. All three have been charged about 100 times. Two take full charge but, the battery on my original ProConnect is down to 4 lights on the cell test. However, it still takes just over 9amp recharge.

Good prices for battery/charger and new motor. What happened to your motor? Where did you source the new one (in case I ever need to do the same). Where did you source battery. 50cycles only do 26v 8 and 24 amp now. In that case it's not worth worrying about my battery given it still takes over 9amp.

Best regards
Mike

Hi Mike,

Yes I commute in all weathers and I mainly use the Kalkhoff through the winter months these days, preferring to use a conventional bike in the spring and summer. Luckily I am able to take the bike indoors at work and leave it in a heated garage / hangar. Ive also got a pump up garden spray bottle at work and at home which are filled with clean water. If its salty / excessively dirty, I tend to spend a couple of minutes rinsing the bike down, nothing excessive. Occasionally I'll give it a thorough clean using Muc-Off and this seems to have preserved it quite well. The rear wheel rim is corroded and the coating is peeling off, so I will have the hub built into a new rim next year.

I too like the original colour schemes. The grey and white does stand out and looks good.

My original Panasonic battery is only good for about 12 miles these days which means that I need to charge it at work. It was also becoming a bit restrictive in terms of going for a longer ride, which I seldom do, but I wanted the option available, so I went for a new battery.

The motor failed during May of this year. It defaulted to a very low level of assist (much lower than low) and gave the same output in all three modes. Martin @ e-bikeshop sold me the new motor (thank you martin). It had a slightly doubtful background in that it was swapped under warranty because the original owner thought that it lacked power. This left Martin with the motor, so he agreed to let me have it to try, which I did, and I think it is perfectly OK. It is a 2011 version and is very much more powerful than the 2008 model. I'm very pleased.

Here is the battery and charger which I bought (18 Ah version)

http://www.50cycles.com/accessories/electric-bike-spares/batteries-and-chargers1/ebike-vision-26v-2.html

JamesC off the forum purchased one a while back and has reported no problems so far. I carried out a little bit of research and the E-Bike Vision battery seems to be well thought of. It's assembled in Germany and uses Sony or samsung cells (I think). Time will give the definitive answer on the longevity of the battery. Early indications are a range of about 50 miles in normal power mode. The charger is a 6 Amp unit and charges much quicker than the desktop type unit which came with the Panasonic battery. it is very noisy though due to a powerful fan. The fast charger plugs into a socket on the battery enabling on bike charging. The original desktop type unit is backwards compatible. The battery and charger cost £420 delivered from here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261581918421?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The company were very good, speedy delivery and seemed professional.

The little grey box houses a DC-DC converter (12 to 60 Volts in 9 Volts out). I use it to run the lights (4 x cree T6 on the front and a BikeRay LED rear which is very powerful, even in daylight).

Here are a few pics of the 18 Ah battery and charger so you can compare the size with the original Panasonic