Chain short by 7 links - willl it be too tight?

MGR1

Pedelecer
Sep 12, 2011
26
0
Trondheim, Norway
Hi all.

I have installed a larger front chainwheel (42 instead of 35 teeth) on my Kalkoff Sahel. It has a spring loaded tensioner in the back, and this points straight down now, instead of slightly backwards. That is because the chain is 7 links too short now. Bike runs OK, but will there be some long-term ill effects?

Any advice will be appreciated :).
 

MGR1

Pedelecer
Sep 12, 2011
26
0
Trondheim, Norway
Thanks for the link Alan, but I forgot to say that the Kalkhoff Sahel has a Shimano Alfine hub gear, so the chain sizing methods covered on the Park Tool site do not apply.
 

catsnapper

Pedelecer
Hi again,

I use a similar system with Alfine hubs, and I've got both the Alfine fixed tensioner and a spring loaded one.
The first is easy to set up, the spring loaded one needs to be set to quite a high level of tension to prevent chain sag.
I'd guess you are ok with it as it is, but a pic would help get a better idea.

Alan
 

JamesC

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 1, 2007
435
5
Peterborough, UK
Hi all.

I have installed a larger front chainwheel (42 instead of 35 teeth) on my Kalkoff Sahel. It has a spring loaded tensioner in the back, and this points straight down now, instead of slightly backwards. That is because the chain is 7 links too short now. Bike runs OK, but will there be some long-term ill effects?

Any advice will be appreciated :).
My experience is with earlier chain arrangements on the ProConnect and Agattu; all with hub gears but using only a front tensioner at the chainwheel end. However, a couple of observations may still be relevant to your setup.

First, I am guessing that your new chainwheel is 41 teeth rather than 42 if it is a Panasonic drive. An increase of 6 teeth around the chainwheel means that the chain will see an extra 3 teeth because it only passes round the front half of the chainwheel.

My understanding of one full chain link is that it comprises an inner pair of plates and an outer pair of plates, so covers 2 teeth of a chainwheel. So I would say that your chain is 1 1/2 links short.

Does this matter ?

On the Sahel, is the rear wheel bolted into a slot (dropout) that runs more or less front to back, allowing the wheel position to be adjusted to affect the chain tension ? I can't recall whether the rear tensioner was added to allow just a single (fixed) position for the wheel.

I only ask because I have a preference for the wheel to sit well back into a horizontal dropout, allowing the serrated washers to grip over as much area as possible including the back of the slot. If the wheel is only just into the slot, there is a tendency for the chain tension to overcome the wheel nut, and cause the wheel to shift on the chain side.

So, if the wheel is well back in the dropout and there is still a small amount of give in the front and rear tensioners, I would think that it will be OK.

Quite possibly you have done some miles on the original chainwheel, and the chain has already stretched a bit. Go for one extra full link when fitting a new chain.

Last point - has the new position of the rear tensioner altered the amount of chain wrap around the rear sprocket ? I am guessing that it won't have reduced the number of teeth in contact with the chain, which can cause a faster rate of wear.

James
 

MGR1

Pedelecer
Sep 12, 2011
26
0
Trondheim, Norway
Thanks for the input James. You are of course right about your calculations. I have concluded that the bigger chainwheel does not really matter, but I will increase the chain length with one link. My old chain has some 1100 km's on it and is bound to have streched some.