Chain jumping/slipping under load

[hobbes748]

Apologies if this has been answered before but I couldn't find it.

I've recently bought a new Haibike sduro Cross. It's now done about 300 miles or so but it's been suffering from chain slip/skip since day one. It only does it under load (pulling away from junctions can be really hairy). All seems fine when cruising (unless uphill). Just to clarify, It's not jumping up or down the gears - it's just jumping in the gear it's in.

I've twiddled - and re-twiddled the adjustment on the cable thinking/hoping that'll fix it but TBH it doesn't seem to need it. Bought it online so not yet worth posting back to get fixed, but I can't stand it any longer so if I can't fix it I'm going to have to hand it into a bike shop to look at.

Has anyone got any ideas before I go down the shop route?

Thanks

 

[soundwave]

 

[hobbes748]

Thanks - but I've been there, done that, no difference.

 

[tommie]

What gear is it jumping in?

 

[hobbes748]

What gear is it jumping in?

I generally only find gears 6-9 of any use. It skips in all of them. Probably mostly 9, but I'm mostly in that gear anyway as it's a more rural commute.

 

[Izzyekerslike]

Try using your gears like you would in a car.... Change down when coming to a stop or climbing then change up as you build up speed.
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[hobbes748]

Try using your gears like you would in a car.... Change down when coming to a stop or climbing then change up as you build up speed.
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Yup. Do that. Start in 6th,skip,skip, skip. Move to 7th, same thing. 8th...... When up to speed in top, skip (works fine for a minute or two), skip and skip. Effin annoying.
First to fifth are useless on the road - way too low. Probably would be fine off road but not tried it.

 

[ChilledMatt]

I had this with my Bosch drive Cube within 500 miles of ownership. Turned out to be stretched chain/worn cassette which I think I probably did doing wheelies. I have upgraded the chain/cassette and stopped doing wheelies and so far so good.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

 

[hobbes748]

Can't stand it! Couldn't use top gear at all today the slipping was so bad. Booked it into the shop tomorrow morning. I'll let you know what they say.

 

[EddiePJ]

Tight link in chain?

 

[hobbes748]

Tight link in chain?

I'll go out and check on my lunch, but I doubt it. I don't even get a full revolution of the crank so it would need to be a lot of tight links.

 

[Woosh]

this may be a long shot but it takes 30 seconds to check the direction of your chain. If you don't know which direction the chain should travel, just make sure that the chain writing faces outwards towards you.

 

[hobbes748]

this may be a long shot but it takes 30 seconds to check the direction of your chain. If you don't know which direction the chain should travel, just make sure that the chain writing faces outwards towards you.

Thanks - I'll check that too. It really wouldn't surprise me if it was on backwards as whoever completed the PDI on my bike did a shocking job of it.

 

[Georgew]

If the chain is jumping on many sprockets and particularly on the small one then it is very likely to be a stiff link. Best way to check is to run the chain backwards while eyeing the cassette as you do so. After checking this it's essential to view from the rear that the pulley on the rear Der carrying the chain is directly below the chosen sprocket as the rear Der hanger is often distorted when the bike is transported by carriers. It's important to do this before any adjustment of the gears is made.
If a stiff link is found then this can be rectified by using a cloth to grasp the chain on each side of the stiff link and twist hands in an opposite direction to free the link.
Hope this helps.

 

[hobbes748]

If the chain is jumping on many sprockets and particularly on the small one then it is very likely to be a stiff link. Best way to check is to run the chain backwards while eyeing the cassette as you do so. After checking this it's essential to view from the rear that the pulley on the rear Der carrying the chain is directly below the chosen sprocket as the rear Der hanger is often distorted when the bike is transported by carriers. It's important to do this before any adjustment of the gears is made.
If a stiff link is found then this can be rectified by using a cloth to grasp the chain on each side of the stiff link and twist hands in an opposite direction to free the link.
Hope this helps.

I suspect the Der is a bit squint, but it looks ok. How out of true does it need to be before it starts misbehaving?

I'll check all the links. I'll get someone to hold the back wheel up as (as I discovered when I tried to lube the chain) the crank just freewheels when you turn it backwards.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'd say that the chain is just too long so it doesn't have enough tension. Put it in bottom gear and show us a photo of the rear derailleur position from the side.

 

[Georgew]

I suspect the Der is a bit squint, but it looks ok. How out of true does it need to be before it starts misbehaving?

I'll check all the links. I'll get someone to hold the back wheel up as (as I discovered when I tried to lube the chain) the crank just freewheels when you turn it backwards.

"A bit squint" is all it needs. Bike shops have a tool to check and adjust any misalignment of the hanger.

 

[hobbes748]

"A bit squint" is all it needs. Bike shops have a tool to check and adjust any misalignment of the hanger.

 

[Georgew]

To check if the hanger is bent the image must be taken from directly behind the bike in line with the Rear Der and focusing on the Rear Der showing the chain on a sprocket. The top pulley should be positioned directly below the sprocket bearing the chain. If it isn't then the chain will constantly be slipping on the sprocket teeth as it will be pulled sideways by the top pulley.

Your image give no information re this I'm afraid.

A stiff link...when the chain is moved backwards it will jump as it moves over the teeth of the sprockets on the cassette.

 

[hobbes748]

To check if the hanger is bent the image must be taken from directly behind the bike in line with the Rear Der and focusing on the Rear Der showing the chain on a sprocket. The top pulley should be positioned directly below the sprocket bearing the chain. If it isn't then the chain will constantly be slipping on the sprocket teeth as it will be pulled sideways by the top pulley.

Your image give no information re this I'm afraid.

A stiff link...when the chain is moved backwards it will jump as it moves over the teeth of the sprockets on the cassette.

Oops. I replied to the wrong post. The picture was supposed to be in reply to d8veh's post about the chain maybe being too long.

I'll get a photo from round the back when I get a break and post it up.

Thanks for your help.