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Carry Freedom Axle Problem (solved?)

Featured Replies

I had left the wheels off for several weeks, and they wouldn't snap in. The two ball bearings either side of the wheel axles wouldn't snap into the axle's inner channel for them, but only one one trailer axle side. I tried both wheels. The tolerances are quite fine, and I decided to soften any grime which may have dried within the trailer axle. After a good soak with water (it's an aluminium axle), and wheel axle rotation, the wheels eventually locked in. At least I hope so - I need to use it soon to move more compost bags. What I really need is a pressure washer.

No don't use a pressure washer.

Use a thin bottle brush or air rifle bore brush and some liquid grease or penetrating oil to clean the short axle bore.

There isn't an inner channel for the balls to release/locate in to, they simply spring out once they pass the end of the axle bore. The axles are adjustable if the balls don't spring out correctly , the inboard axle end has a pair of flat sides to fit a spanner and one then tightens or loosens the aduster nut on the other end to lengthen or shorten the axle length by 2 or 3mm.

Shine a torch a long the axle bore and you will see it is plain /smooth and that the balls simply pop out at the other end of the short axle bore.

 

Also between the axle end face and the wheel hub bearing fit a 12mm dia hole x 18/20 mm o/a dia neoprene or rubber washer 0.5mm or 1mm to the axle so there is no metal to metal contact that can damage the bearing or wear the axle end.

Something like these.

5 x Bespoke Solid Neoprene Rubber Washer / Washers 0.5mm thk, upto 30mm diameter | eBay

 

One wants about 0.25mm play for nice rotation and use the axle adjustment end screw to acheive it.

A correct locating QR axle one should feel/sense the small bearing click out/in to place as they reach the end of the axle bore.

 

 

I take my wheels off and hang them up as I saw a case of someone who left them in situ and they left the trailer out in the rain, the balls /QR action rusted in place and it took the guy some time and work to free them. So keep them lubed up and store in the dry.

Edited by Nealh

  • Author

Shine a torch a long the axle bore and you will see it is plain /smooth and that the balls simply pop out at the other end of the short axle bore.

 

My eyes aren't in good shape, I can't see a thing in there.

 

I take my wheels off and hang them up as I saw a case of someone who left them in situ and they left the trailer out in the rain, the balls /QR action rusted in place and it took the guy some time and work to free them. So keep them lubed up and store in the dry.

 

So... shooting water through the trailer axle was very idea! I've just ordered this "Extra long" brush, and will do a thorough cleaning with penetrating oil, thanks for your advice.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263861263101

 

Also between the axle end face and the wheel hub bearing fit a 12mm dia hole x 18/20 mm o/a dia neoprene or rubber washer 0.5mm or 1mm to the axle so there is no metal to metal contact that can damage the bearing or wear the axle end.

Something like these.

5 x Bespoke Solid Neoprene Rubber Washer / Washers 0.5mm thk, upto 30mm diameter | eBay

 

This looks like a very sensible idea - why don't Carry Freedom fit those in the first place? Those should keep grime out of the trailer axle bore.

My eyes aren't in good shape, I can't see a thing in there.

 

 

 

So... shooting water through the trailer axle was very idea! I've just ordered this "Extra long" brush, and will do a thorough cleaning with penetrating oil, thanks for your advice.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263861263101

 

 

 

This looks like a very sensible idea - why don't Carry Freedom fit those in the first place? Those should keep grime out of the trailer axle bore.

 

I added them because of the metal to metal contact and I have only recently replaced all 4 sealed bearing because of wear.

 

The axle bore is just that with no recesses for the balls to locate in to. As you know one has to press the QR release for the balls to become free and enter the bore, as I mentioned once the QR axle is pushed in fully the QR and balls self release in to place once thru the other side of the bore and it is this that simply holds the wheels on. The Burley trailers are the same.

Also keep an eye on the breakaway strap if used, my one snapped yesterday at one of the crimps. Moisture has got to the wire strands and it simply snapped off.

 

I have made a new one in the style of the Burley Black strap type, these trailer boys certainly know hiw to charge for spare parts.

  • Author

I added them because of the metal to metal contact and I have only recently replaced all 4 sealed bearing because of wear.

 

Cor that's even more useful info!

 

Also keep an eye on the breakaway strap if used, my one snapped yesterday at one of the crimps. Moisture has got to the wire strands and it simply snapped off.

 

My ebay bargain doesn't have one, I was intending to use rope in the interim...

 

these trailer boys certainly know hiw to charge for spare parts.

 

...while I look at their eye watering prices! :eek:

  • Author

I added them because of the metal to metal contact and I have only recently replaced all 4 sealed bearing because of wear.

 

This has got to be a design fault. :mad:

In the spares list CF do list axle O rings so can only assume this is what they are for.

Like your trailer being used, mine also was used and no O rings on the QR axle.

I expect users easily lose them and don't bother to rpalce them, one doesn't have to get the exact thickness correct a sone can adjust the axle length a few mm to allow the balls to locate correctly.

  • Author

these trailer boys certainly know hiw to charge for spare parts.

 

They won't want people being able to make a complete cheaper brand new trailer using new spare parts.

 

The minimum shipping charge is 11.74 Euros, for the tiny O-rings. I'll order the rings you linked, I think.

 

Shipping is 50 Euros for:

 

����



Product Name
Price
Qty
Subtotal


Subtotal
€54.03





Shipping & Handling (Shipping Method - Versand)
€50.00





Tax
€0.00





Grand Total
€104.03





Carry Freedom Rubber Cap
Short Description
Rubber Cap for hub - per piece
Delivery time 7 Tage
€2.77
2
€5.54


Carry Freedom Flag and Light Holder
Short Description Flag and light holder for Y small and Y large Delivery time 7 Tage
€23.11
1
€23.11


Carry Freedom USB Rear Light for Y-Small and Y-Large
Short Description Carry Freedom USB rear light for Y small and Y large. M ...
Short Description Carry Freedom USB rear light for Y small and Y large. Must be mounted on the Flag/Light Holder (see details below)
Delivery time 7 Tage
€22.61
1
€22.61


Carry Freedom - rubber rings for wheel axles (pair)
Short Description
Carry Freedom - rubber rings for wheel axles (pair). ...
Short Description
Carry Freedom - rubber rings for wheel axles (pair). Retro compatible. For Y-small (up to Version 2.1), Y-large (up to Version 2.1) and LEAF.
Delivery time 7 Tage






  • Author

In the spares list CF do list axle O rings so can only assume this is what they are for.

Like your trailer being used, mine also was used and no O rings on the QR axle.

I expect users easily lose them and don't bother to rpalce them, one doesn't have to get the exact thickness correct a sone can adjust the axle length a few mm to allow the balls to locate correctly.

 

I initially called the seller of my CF up, turns out he's a Psychotherapist who only looks like he's retired from financial services - he said he'd never experienced this issue of the wheels not locking into one side. He actually offered me a refund, but that wasn't what my call was about. Seems he's settled into his new home in Leeds. He needed a tree surgeon to work on some trees in his new massive garden, so I put him in touch with my tree surgeon friend who lives nearby - maybe they'll trade skills, my friend could do with psychotherapy.

 

I added them because of the metal to metal contact and I have only recently replaced all 4 sealed bearing because of wear.

 

That must have been annoying. How on earth did you disassemble the hub to do that? I can't see any way of getting in to replace bearings at all. Did you knock out the middle cylinders? If so, how? Thankfully, the bearings seem ok - very smooth. They're much higher quality wheels than the Homcom's. There's no sign of wear on the wheel hubs, the seller did say that the trailer hadn't had much use. I've given the wheel axles and hubs a good clean with penetrating oil - one wheel axle pulls out from the hub ever so slightly less freely than the other. More cleaning required methinks.

Edited by guerney

The bearings come out easily, one has to use a longish 6mm rod and mallet to tap them out from each side of the hub, the QR axle has to be removed first. Fitting the new ones is a 5 second job.
  • Author

It shouldn't be too hard to make a flag/light holder up to fit the CF. bed.

 

I'll leave the other flag ziptied to the Homcom. A thick block of wood bolted through the CF BASE, drilled through for the pole would do.

 

These are made from ABS for kayaks, could be bolted through the CF base. With flag and without:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374010955610?_trkparms=

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

Base or holder only:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374081266121?hash=

 

 

Mounting several flags on a rail would be overkill:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152663217576?_trkparms=

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

Or this could be filled in with epoxy and flag pole pushed in (don't mention Brexit! :eek: ). Or simply cut off a wood pole part, glue it in, drill a hole for the trailer flag pole .

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284856681154?hash=

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

1659345870928.thumb.jpeg.72d641519854a303cd9a01cb2772ca91.jpeg

Edited by guerney

  • Author
The multi-angle aspect of the second one appeals to me - drivers may hang further back, if the flag leans at them.
  • Author

The bearings come out easily, one has to use a longish 6mm rod and mallet to tap them out from each side of the hub, the QR axle has to be removed first. Fitting the new ones is a 5 second job.

 

That's very useful, thank you! I'll grab some 6mm rod for when the time comes.

The Kayak one looks good and your flag/pennant could be the same as your angry avatar, that might make drivers think twice.

I have been thinking about adding one as well but only if I find a pennant I like.

Edited by Nealh

Having extended by tow arm the clearance to the rear tyre is now some 450mm to the trailer front and makes for easier wide turns. A nice bonus is the trailer is off center now and sits approx. 125mm more to the offside so the wheel/arch is more in to the line of over taking traffic, today I noticed on the road sections cars were giveing more space and consideration before passing. As the C/L of the trailer is all pushed over, it also means the nearside wheel is also pushed over away from the gutter, and means no more kerb contact as the wheel line is pretty much inline with the LH pedal crank arm.

Edited by Nealh

I'm getting more peds and dog walkers smiling and remarking on the my Ute/ CF combo when out on the trail/rail line , I remark today was neat.
  • Author

Having extended by tow arm the clearance to the rear tyre is now some 450mm to the trailer front and makes for easier wide turns. A nice bonus is the trailer is off center now and sits approx. 125mm more to the offside so the wheel/arch is more in to the line of over taking traffic, today I noticed on the road sections were giveing more space and consideration before passing. As the C/L of the trailer is all pushed over, it also means the nearside wheel is also pushed over away from the gutter, and means no more kerb contact as the wheel line is pretty much inline with the LH pedal crank arm.

 

How's the Tong coping? You're hauling heavy honey hauls. Those heat mods likely mitigated ill effects which many devices seem to be having, in this mad hot weather. One of my Western Digital Black hard drives died, but telegraphed it's imminent death for a week - this is a luxury SSDs don't give you - giving me enough time to clone it to a brand new Western Digital Blue, which won't last 12 years like the WD Black. Those fsckers are built to last. Clone didn't work first time, motor was failing because it's been on pretty much continuously for 12 years. Got there the second time. Whew! Google's London datacenre went t*tsup in the heat.

Edited by guerney

  • Author

The Kayak one looks good and your flag/pennant could be the same as your angry avatar, that might make drivers think twice.

 

I was going for daft and odd! I may redo the pupils to point in different directions.

 

I have been thinking about adding one as well but only if I find a pennant I like.

 

Surely, it must feature a bee - they of course are sensibly dressed in hi-viz at all times (beware any living thing with stripes! :eek: ).

Edited by guerney

TheTong is ok but if I have tbh, then my small Bafang G370 front hub is more then a match for it. And tbh I prefer the G370.
I expect I shall go with boring St George flag and an olde Enlish Wyvern flag.
  • Author

The Kayak one looks good and your flag/pennant could be the same as your angry avatar, that might make drivers think twice.

 

The flag on the kayak version could be too short at 140cm? The holder might not accommodate a thinner longer flagpole, like this one I have on the Homcom:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254706589834?var=

 

...but if not, I suppose I could get a longer flagpole which does fit, or connect a piece to it.

  • Author

I'm getting more peds and dog walkers smiling and remarking on the my Ute/ CF combo when out on the trail/rail line , I remark today was neat.

 

My more modest setup gets a nice reaction from pedestrians, but of course not from drivers.

 

Can't CF without a flag...

 

trailer.thumb.jpg.3d5be99b5b1d1a012ea2eafdeac652e5.jpg

One can use any type of rod of the correct dia , even split came or Bamboo.

1.2m should be fine, I see no reason for a long one esp if one uses trails

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