Carrera Vulcan hacks..

[vfr400]

Cells don't cause cutouts. The BMS does.

Use any large capacitor you can find, say 470mfd or 1000mfd. It just needs to be rated at a high enough voltage, say 60V or more. Solder it directly across the battery wires, making sure that you get it the right wzy round, otherwise it will go bang.

 

[anon4]

Cells don't cause cutouts. The BMS does.

Use any large capacitor you can find, say 470mfd or 1000mfd. It just needs to be rated at a high enough voltage, say 60V or more. Solder it directly across the battery wires, making sure that you get it the right wzy round, otherwise it will go bang.

Ok my hub has just totally died, wiring seems ok. If I push the bike backwards and blip the throttle it will engage and run unloaded, loaded it will not. It is also very loud, I think the internal gearing or the clutch is knackered, maybe that's why it wouldn't run at higher current because it was starting to slip?

 

[anon4]

Well tried another hub, it's not the hub either... I'm lost

 

[vfr400]

Either one or more MOSFETs are blown in your controller or you have a connection issue between the controller and the motor. As you replaced the motor, the only place the connection issue could be is between the controller and the connector near the motor. Check the cable for damage too. If no damage or bad connections, you need a new controller.

 

[anon4]

Either one or more MOSFETs are blown in your controller or you have a connection issue between the controller and the motor. As you replaced the motor, the only place the connection issue could be is between the controller and the connector near the motor. Check the cable for damage too. If no damage or bad connections, you need a new controller.

Yeah already figured it out. Think it was the cause of the cutouts too, opened the controller and it looks like the shunt has been arcing against one of the caps and eventually blown something. Piece of crap

 

[gottagofasta]

I have found a way to make the Carrera Vulcan engine move without pedalling by making it think I am pedalling.

Cut the wire from the PAS sensor, Reconnect all the wires beside black, Connect two long wires to green and black and then to a momentary switch, When you press the switch it'll send a signal that you've pedalled once and assist, You have to then keep pressing the switch repeatedly it'll keep giving you power all the way up to about 16mph on a flat.

I have bought a BD139 Bojack transistor, To try and make the signal repeat by itself just by holding the momentary switch down.

The only downside is that when you stop you get E22, You can fix it by turning off and then back on the display, I am going to test to see if having the black wires connected works and stops that error, I will post again if it does.

The switch I'm using https://www.amazon.co.uk/RUNCCI-YUN-Normal-Momentary-Button-Pre-soldered/dp/B07ZTJ4882/ you need a cheap wire cutter stripper tool from wickes, Heat shrink tubing, I have just been twisting the wires tightly together, Then taping it up with electrical tape.

But with this, I can use the Carrera Vulcan without pedalling at all, My PAS sensor isn't attached to the crank, But it shouldn't make a difference even if it is.