Carrera Vulcan E-bike - chain slap

[AndyBike]

RS stands for Rubber Shield.
Those black(or other coloured) coverings are the RS bits.
RS is a single shield, the other side is left open, the 2RS means both sides of the bearing is enclosed.
A single RS (though I cannot confirm) it appears to be the logical reason, is to allow grease to be topped up.

Of course you can buy a bearing for a quid, and it doesnt matter if its RS or 2RS, the cheapness is specified by the fact you sent a whole quid on it.
Enduro, SKF either RS or 2RS will cost you £6-8 each.
For years Hope Technology used to use Enduro bearings in their hubs. Not sure what they're using currently, they aren't marked like they were in the old days.

So if you want a quality bearing, it's going to cost you more than a quid.

 

[TheoFitz]

Just an update. The 6001RS bearings lasted about 6 months. I have since installed Enduro RS60012RS from Simply Bearings and all seems well. I noticed that the load spec. for the 2RS is greater than the RS bearings. The original bearings were 60012RS.

Sorry I missed a critical letter “C” out. The correct number for the original bearing is 6001RSC2.
I initially used a 6001RS which did not last long. I have now replaced them with 6001RSC2
C code refers to internal clearance.
C2 is less than normal so the bearing is tighter i.e. little or no play in the bearings.

 

[TheoFitz]

RS stands for Rubber Shield.
Those black(or other coloured) coverings are the RS bits.
RS is a single shield, the other side is left open, the 2RS means both sides of the bearing is enclosed.
A single RS (though I cannot confirm) it appears to be the logical reason, is to allow grease to be topped up.

Of course you can buy a bearing for a quid, and it doesnt matter if its RS or 2RS, the cheapness is specified by the fact you sent a whole quid on it.
Enduro, SKF either RS or 2RS will cost you £6-8 each.
For years Hope Technology used to use Enduro bearings in their hubs. Not sure what they're using currently, they aren't marked like they were in the old days.

So if you want a quality bearing, it's going to cost you more than a quid.

I never said I spent a "quid" I used "Enduro" bearings. I would never endorse using cheap bearings.

 

[AndyBike]

I never said I spent a "quid" I used "Enduro" bearings. I would never endorse using cheap bearings.

Sorry, that was addressed to Nealh, i just included it all in text and thought folk would realize that.

 

[Nealh]

One can spend however much they wish to on bearings, I have no issue with my cheap £1 odd bearings and no rumblings from the hubs. Even if one does wear I see no issue with changing the item as it only takes approx. 1/2hr for me to do so.

 

[shabba007]

Hi Folks, I have the exact same problem with chain slap on a Vulcan E. Have since removed the freehub (with help from someone on here), but have been unable to find an exact match new free hub, so thinking about rebuilding this one.

However having not done it before, wondering if someone could provide a few step by steps instructions (in lamens terms) on how to dismantle this hub, replace the bearings etc.

cheers
Andy.

 

[Nealh]

I told you how the sealed bearings can be removed in your other thread, the only bit I didn't say was the cassette will need to be held so the inner retaining ring can be loosened. There may be only a single slot so use a screwdriver flat end that fits tightly and gently tap the driver shaft with a hammer ACW, once undone if the sealed bearings and spacer don't drop out use a drift to tap them out from the rear. Fitting is the reverse from the front but for the bearings use a drift either socket head or plastic tube of the correct size that sits on the outer metal of the bearing, if the drift solely sits on the inner coloured seal it will cause damage and allow moisture in.
The bearing part number is embossed on the seal.

 

[shabba007]

Hi, there seems to be a rubber seal/ring (before the bearings) at the front. Does this need to be removed first ? Some of the others pics in this post also show a circlip, I wonder if that's sitting behind this rubber seal ?

 

[Nealh]

Yes it will need to come out as I doubt the bearing will pass thru it.

 

[shabba007]

Got the bearings out (easier than I was expecting).
Any reccomendation on the bearing replacements or it is trial an error ? Don't mind spending a few quid for longevity. I've got around 800 miles out of this set.

Was looking at these....

Search Results: 6001RSC2 - Simply Bearings Ltd

simplybearings.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

The NACHI one may be best offering lateral and axial loading and with double seals.
The ease at which they can be replaced I don't think is worth paying much more.