Carrera Vengeance ebike battery charger clicking

rajeshtailor

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Jun 5, 2020
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Thanks for the help. I also used this link

The multi meter is returning 0 when i test the charger unit. Would that imply the charger unit is broken and I would need to source another charger rather than the battery?
 

Nealh

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It may use extra comm's wiring as it has 4 extra pins so you might not get a reading.
One assumed the meter was set to 200v DC.

One could open the charger to check for a blown fuse if fitted/used, if the clicking noise to the charger is with no battery connected then it indicates power supply from the wall socket is good and the plug fuse is good.
 
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rajeshtailor

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Jun 5, 2020
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Yes the multimeter was set to 200v DC, also the clicking noise only occurs when the battery is connected. The plug fuse is good i tested with a different power cable too. I could open up the charger box and see if there is a fuse.
 

matthewslack

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Nov 26, 2021
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ok so is anyone able to assist on how I go about testing the charger unit with a multi meter? Like what settings do i need to use on the multi meter?
Set the meter to a DC voltage that is more than 42V. On my cheap meter that is the 200V scale. Then touch the probes to the leftmost and rightmost pins on the charger output, taking care not to be touching any other pins at the same time.

When the charger is on, the meter should read. Hopefully 42V. -42V just means the probes are wrong way round, which doesn't matter for this task.
 

Nealh

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So the pics in #12 weren't the charger but the battery docking connection.
Show us the correct charger pic.
 

rajeshtailor

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Jun 5, 2020
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The pics in #12 is of the battery and the charging dock which connects to a power block. The battery looks like it allows 2 ways to charge it one way is through the charging dock with the 6 pins shown in #12 and the second way to charge it is through this 3 pin connector. I hope that makes sense.
 

soundwave

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May 23, 2015
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if the batts voltage is that low then a new charger wont fix the problem, you will need to check the cell banks for voltage as bms could be fried.

if one cells gets to low say 2v the charger wont charge it as needs to be at least 2.8v to charge up to 4.2v for a single cell.
 

rajeshtailor

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Jun 5, 2020
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if the batts voltage is that low then a new charger wont fix the problem, you will need to check the cell banks for voltage as bms could be fried.

if one cells gets to low say 2v the charger wont charge it as needs to be at least 2.8v to charge up to 4.2v for a single cell.
Ok so how do I check cell banks for voltage? What could cause the BMS to get fried?
 

soundwave

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soundwave

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you just need to test the cell banks for voltage if every one is zero it is a bin job
 

soundwave

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rajeshtailor

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Jun 5, 2020
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I may just bite the bullet and spend the £20 on a 3 pin charger just to rule out the whole charger issue.
 

soundwave

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will the batt not come apart easy ? all you need to do is get to the bms balance cable and check the voltage of each cell bank like in the vid i posted but some batts are a bitch to get open and done or purpose.

if its a 36v batt then flat should read 30v i think all it takes is for 1 cell bank to go out of whack and the bms can stop charging the hole pack because of this.


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he will find out what is wrong and give you a price to sort it one way or another and the best there is and wont use crap cells or bms.
 

cyclebuddy

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Nov 2, 2016
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So the pics in #12 weren't the charger but the battery docking connection.
Show us the correct charger pic.
The pic in post #25 is the original charger port for a late model Vengeance. Buyers kept breaking the tiny plug pins, so Suntour concocted the adaptor in post #12 to allow charging through the discharge port.

I'd suggest the OP re-reads his manual here regarding checking the battery. If still in doubt, I'd take both battery and charger into Halfords, and ask them to try his battery with their charger, and his charger with their battery. That'll give a definitive answer as to what's not working.

The older style batteries and chargers were already a nightmare to fault-find because comms on both input and output of the battery plus the charger's own pre-charge self-test routine made it really difficult to determine anything: These new model batteries and chargers IMHO are even worse.
 
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