Help! Carrera Vengeance e type!!!

[Seb12]

Hi everybody,
I bought a vengeance e-type a couple of years ago from Halfords and as you could probably guess I’ve had a few problems.
I’m now at the point where I want to convert it to make repairs less costly.
So to start with does anyone know if I can use the original battery, motor (Suntour hesc) and just get a different controller and add ons like a throttle?
Thanks in advance

 

[vfr400]

Yes, it's already been done a couple of times. You need a controller, brake switches, motor cable, PAS, LCD and throttle n(optional). I recommend a KT sine wave controller from Topbikekit

 

[tim25]

Hi there,

I also have a Carrera vengence Ebike, I fried the original controller and have since bought a KT sinewave T-06S controller, pas sensor and brakes, LCD and throttle from TBK. All arrived and looks like the controller will just about fit in the small frame space.

However I'm struggling to get the connections right on the Hesc motor, phase and hall wires.

I have the bike on a stand and installed a 3 amp fuse in the positive power wire.

I was pleased to see all the colours matched up and so I've tried matching them up colour wise and i get a very short moment of wheel turning and then "03 info" on the display.

I'm not sure of the best procedure to follow from here. I've been reading for days on the subject and still not 100%, I tried to alternate the phase wires and blew the 3 amp fuse so have backed off till i understand a bit more.
I have seen some of the flow charts attached to a few chats on here but they seem to only change the phase wires?

I'm interested to know if there's any info/chats that feature those who have done it already.

any advice gratefully received

 

[tim25]

Hi there,

I also have a Carrera vengence Ebike, I fried the original controller and have since bought a KT sinewave T-06S controller, pas sensor and brakes, LCD and throttle from TBK. All arrived and looks like the controller will just about fit in the small frame space.

However I'm struggling to get the connections right on the Hesc motor, phase and hall wires.

I have the bike on a stand and installed a 3 amp fuse in the positive power wire.

I was pleased to see all the colours matched up and so I've tried matching them up colour wise and i get a very short moment of wheel turning and then "03 info" on the display.

I'm not sure of the best procedure to follow from here. I've been reading for days on the subject and still not 100%, I tried to alternate the phase wires and blew the 3 amp fuse so have backed off till i understand a bit more.
I have seen some of the flow charts attached to a few chats on here but they seem to only change the phase wires?

I'm interested to know if there's any info/chats that feature those who have done it already.

any advice gratefully received

additional info: Last night i also tested the hall wires with a meter and found when wheel was rotated backwards meter displayed 0-5v as i turned it, on all 3 wires ( i thought that was positive and showed they were working)
I then tested the motor wires with the 36 combinations found on this site but very little progress, from momentary movement, to stuck to no response at the wheel at all. sometimes when pressing the throttle it showed the rotating symbol on the display other options it just went blank showing 3 info.
now I'm stuck again...

 

[vfr400]

IIRC, they go colour to colour. Use Google to search the forum for other threads on this. A guy did a nice wtite up about it.

You should check that the three hall signal wires give 5v switching on and off as the wheel rotates backwards slowly. Steady 5v as wrong.

 

[tim25]

IIRC, they go colour to colour. Use Google to search the forum for other threads on this. A guy did a nice wtite up about it.

You should check that the three hall signal wires give 5v switching on and off as the wheel rotates backwards slowly. Steady 5v as wrong.

Hi there so maybe after rechecking the hall sensor wires they all shake about numerically 0.67- 3.74.-4.95 as I turn the wheel backwards slowly
does that mean they are bad or good?
The multi meter was not showing distinctly 0 or 5 v
I don't think I got five volts when touching the positive and ground hall wires, I got about 4.75v

If they are broken , perhaps the result of wrong polarity battery issue ?

Do you know where would one could buy a replacement hall sensor that will work in a 36volt 250watt suntour hesc motor?
or is it a broken motor?

 

[vfr400]

Those hall sensors are switches. There's a supply voltage of around 5v that's normally the red and black wires. Measure that first. The Halls are switched by the motor's magnets, so when the motor goes round, as each magnet passes a hall, the hall is switched on and off, so you see the same voltage as the supply voltage come and go on each signal wire. You need to turn the wheel slow enough to see the switching.

 

[tim25]

Those hall sensors are switches. There's a supply voltage of around 5v that's normally the red and black wires. Measure that first. The Halls are switched by the motor's magnets, so when the motor goes round, as each magnet passes a hall, the hall is switched on and off, so you see the same voltage as the supply voltage come and go on each signal wire. You need to turn the wheel slow enough to see the switching.

Thanks for reply

yes i did test the red and black hall wires and i get 4.23v. Then i tested each colour using the positive meter lead to the colour hall wire and the black meter lead to the black hall wire .
I advanced the wheel as slowly as i could, it seemed to fall into specific places due to magnets but i would not describe the effect as 5v or 0v.
the yellow wire flipped from 4.25v to 0.16v.
the green wire from 0.65v/4.84v.
the blue wire from 0.67v / 484v.

what does that suggest?

should i be on this question or should i have started my own, sorry still a newbie, i saw it and seemed relevant.
many thanks for your advice

 

[vfr400]

That looks about right.

Are you still using the original motor connector under thr chain-stay?

 

[tim25]

I have cut the suntour waterproof connector off and am using connecter blocks and test leads to temporarily connect the wires and easily try the different combinations.

The best i got was a momentary movement or a stuck sound.

Im glad to hear you think the hall sensors might not be damaged even though it doesn't go right to zero.

could it be something I have failed to set up on the display?

 

[vfr400]

Did you look for the previous thread on this, where the guy did a complete write up on it?

 

[tim25]

Yes I have looked loads but not found it?

 

[tim25]

Any ideas for search terms ? I have been trying things around “carerra vengeance E bike conversion Pedelecs”

 

[vfr400]

Any ideas for search terms ? I have been trying things around “carerra vengeance E bike conversion Pedelecs”

It might have been a Crossfire or Vulcan. I've searched, but I can't find it.

 

[tim25]

It might have been a Crossfire or Vulcan. I've searched, but I can't find it.

thanks for looking

 

[tim25]

i will try those terms too

 

[tim25]

i will try those terms too

Hi there,
After quite a lot of head scratching and swearing, it works!!!

I can confirm the Carrera vengence suntour hesc motor does wire up to the kt sinewave T-06S controller colour for colour. And it does just fit in the small space available in the frame.

Only thing is, you must have continuity in your test leads when linking it up, not like me!
I was on my 3rd time at testing the 36 combinations before I found the intermittent fault in my hall sensor test lead.

Thanks VFR400 for the advice and help getting me there!

i am so ready for a ride, once i've soldered this up!