Carerra torque spring removal?

Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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cyclebuddy

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Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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Thanks for finding that for me. I had even replied to that last year. Stoopid me not looking at my own posts.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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\it takes a lot of levering to get the springs out. IIRC, there's a peg that comes out with the spring on one end and the peg in the other end is fixed in the plate.

Don't lose the shim washers that are between the inner and outer plates where the 4 bolts are.
 

Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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\it takes a lot of levering to get the springs out. IIRC, there's a peg that comes out with the spring on one end and the peg in the other end is fixed in the plate.

Don't lose the shim washers that are between the inner and outer plates where the 4 bolts are.
Would you have any photos?
Thank you.
 

vfr400

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Would you have any photos?
Thank you.
I put them in this thread:
 

Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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I put them in this thread:
I did see that post and do reference it above in my question.
Your photos seem to show Allen bolts right beside the springs, but in my cog, it seems to be different, so I am wondering how am I going to remove one or two of these.
Thanks.
20210327_161117.jpg
 

vfr400

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They're rivets. You lever out the other end. There's a peg holding it in that comes out with it if you lever it enough.
 
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Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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Do i lever it out between what looks to be an end plate on the spring and the metal surround, or is that metal end plate part of that surround, and more importantly can the spring be put back in again?
Thanks again.
 

Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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Before I actually bite the bullet and try to force a spring out, can I buy a complete sprocket assembly off the shelf in case I break any of the tines for cadence / torque?

Thanks.
 

vfr400

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Yes, but it's expensive.

Look, the spring is dead simple. There's a peg at one end that's rivetted to the plate. At the other end of the spring, the peg goes into the spring leaving a flat plate flush with the end of the spring, It's the same as the one the other end except it doesn't have the flange to rivet it. It's that end you lever out because only friction is holding it in. When that end is out, you can wiggle the spring off the rivetted peg. The whole job takes about 10 seconds - just use some force.

To put it back in, wiggle the spring onto the fixed peg, put the plain peg back in, stick a screwdriver in the slot and use it as a lever to compress the spring, while you tap it in with a small hammer.

Just make sure you don't lose the peg when it springs out.
 
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Michael Love

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Aug 26, 2018
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I bit the bullet.
Not only are the shims important, the bits have to fit back together in a certain way, little nipples having to fit into certain holes, and then the crank fits back into the assembly in a certain way, which I got wrong the first time trying to screw it all back together. And then of course the torque/cadence sensor has the two plastic nubs that the metal L shape from the frame must fit between when putting the crank back on the bike again.
Be very careful of the black plastic ring you see around the cranks bolt holes.
Nutlok used on the crank Allen bolt.
Anyway, here's some more pics if anyone else wants to try this.
I have to wait till battery is charged before I can try it out.
Thanks.
 

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egroover

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My commuter workhorse Crossfire-e (4 years old, 4.5k miles), hasn't seen much use since Covid started, preferred to use my Bafang BBS01B mid drive converted Boardman MTB for fun and tours.

Anyway, dusted it off, washed it, degreased the drivetrain and lubed it all up again, and took it our for a spin yesterday. I'd forgotten how much extra pedalling effort is required to keep it pulling hard with the Crossfire-e torque system, compared to the cadence system of the Bafang.

That got me remembering a thread on here about removing a couple of springs, so found it and took out 2 springs on the chainset tonight, the whole job took about 40mins, and just got back from a round trip of my normal commute (12 miles)

Wow! What a difference ! The bike if powering away up hills and on the flat with minimal effort pushing on the pedals (still a little effort required but much much less than before). It's nearly close to a cadence system. I'm even seeing another mile an hour, still assisting at 16.7mph (every little helps). It's obviously using more battery, but the capacity remaining when I got home is still way more than I need for the commute round trip.
If you fancy spicing up your old Crossfire-e/Vulcan-e give it a try
 

davidjones

Just Joined
Oct 13, 2023
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And it works great. Pity there was no actual setting to set in the display to do this.
Thanks again, very much.
Hi Michael, I'm considering buying a subway e and doing this mod to it. I have long covid so I need more oomph from the bike as I can't put out many watts. How is your experience two years later? Did it last? What happened?
Many thanks
Davey
 

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