Can you mix and match components?

[flik9999]

Hey so basicly im enjoying my cyclotricity 250w kit but basicly find it a bit weak and slow for what I want to be doing. Is it possible to take a wheel from another kit and swap it still using the same controller, battery and LCD that cyclotricity provided. Or do controllers only work with each specific wheel.

Heres what I was thinking

Swap 250w cyclotricity for 500w cyclotricity
Swap 250w cyclotricity for 350w front wheel from another kit

If I want more power do I have to buy a whole new kit or should I just enjoy what I have?

 

[flecc]

The controller determines the motor power, not the motor itself.

So you may need to change both for a large increase, and if the existing battery can't deliver enough current for the more powerful setup, the battery too.

Your existing motor will be able to supply some more power with a suitable controller, someone who knows your motor may be in to recommend a suitable new controller.
.

 

[flik9999]

Ohh how about I swap the controller for the 500W one or would that make my motor go bang?

I can't actually change my battery as I broke the key so I am stuck with 36v battery. What type of controller should I go for to be able to have my motor run at about 20 mph instead of 15.5. I only wanna be as fast as a road cyclist on a carbon bike on the flat. Don't want to be going at moped speeds.

Also if the controller controls the power of the motor does that mean the 500w and 1000w motor that they sell if the same and just uses a different controller and battery?

 

[Woosh]

you can swap the motor for a geared hub BPM one.
Check your motor cable, the replacement motor must haave the same lead.

 

[flik9999]

Also should I think about trimming weight off the bike or will going from say 20kg to 18 kg not make much difference?

Was thinking maybe:
Convert to single speed remove all unused cogs.
Replace chainring with alloy one.
Maybe swap to lightweight fork, reynolds 531c maybe? (Might have my old brake problem)

Should I go this route or look at overclocking my motor?

 

[Nealh]

It's not as simple as swapping this for that. You need to know how many amps your motor is comfortable with, then you need to match a suitable amped controller to it. Even then some components may not be happy with each other, having said that you also need a battery that can supply said amps if the battery can't then it will become stressed and ah capacity will decline and voltage sag.
For approx 25/30% speed increase the easiest answer is to get a 48v battery, if you fry the 36v controller then need to get 48v rated one. However most 36v controllers have 50 or 63v caps so should handle the extra V's.
So you need to find out your bms rating and the controller rating, your 250 watt hub may be able to handle up to 18 -- 22amps you have to put it to the test. All in all it can be just a case of trial and error.

Last year I put a 36v 500w Q128c on a mtb with 09 20a controller/lcd kit from BMSB, it appeared wicked on the road 26mph but offroad it struggled at low speed and for torque eventually the controller let go. With the hub's rpm it should have run at approx 19mph not 26, a fortnight ago the same hub was put in a 700c hybrid with a new different dual voltage controller/lcd and it is working well with 19/20 mph as expected. Next step is to rig it up to 12s lipo where I hope to see another 5/6mph .

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Show us some pictures of your bike, the motor, the display panel and the battery, then we can advise how to make it go faster.

 

[D8ve]

Speed is limited by wind resistance. Getting into a race tuck will help you no end. It also makes breathing and viewing harder.
Extra power makes a small difference but burns the battery fast.
What you want is to derestrict the bike, remove the speed limiter.
But that's naughty.
D8veh is something of the expert at these changes.

 

[flik9999]

Pictures will follow soon.

Here is the kit I have.

http://cyclotricity.com/kit-configurator/?xt=5

Heres the battery

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221879437466?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[flik9999]

What’s included?

• Motor: 250W brushless front hub, comes integrated in a wheel size of your choice (reaches maximum speed allowed by UK/EU regulation, i.e. 15.5mph)
• Wheel sizes avilable: 20inch, 24inch, 26inch, 700c, 28inch or 29er
• Wheel material: Double walled alloy rim with reinforced spokes to withstand extra tension.
• Throttle: thumb type – gradual lever, the further it is pressed, the more power is provided.
• Brake levers: Electric levers that also cut the power when applied.
• Brake compatibility: Compatible with both disc brakes and V-brakes
• Controller: 15A max current.
• Cables: Motor cable and system cable (designed for simplicity and minimal wiring)
• Box: for mounting the controller (only when a battery is purchased with the system)
• Fork compatibility: Minimum 100mm between fork drop-outs (which is the vast majority of forks.

Apart from a battery, the above is all that is needed to fully convert a bicycle into an electric bike. All our kit packages include these essential items. All you need to add is a battery (and the optional PAS upgrade if required).

 

[flik9999]

Heres the pictures I was able to take of my bike. As I stupidly broke the key I am unable to take the battery out but the sticker just says 36v 10.4 ah

 

[flik9999]

As for derestricting, Cyclotricity have told me I cant do it on the 250w version. Im trying to get the instructions to derestrict the 500w version and do that.

If that doesnt work I might try and open up the controller.

 

[flik9999]

Speed is limited by wind resistance. Getting into a race tuck will help you no end. It also makes breathing and viewing harder.
Extra power makes a small difference but burns the battery fast.
What you want is to derestrict the bike, remove the speed limiter.
But that's naughty.
D8veh is something of the expert at these changes.

By race tuck I assume you mean in the drops right? I actually spend most my time in them as vintage bikes seam to be designed that way with the absense of brake hoods.

 

[flik9999]

I havnt had a super long empty road yet but I think 22 mph is my highest. Off course I cant look at the lcd when im in the drop position and trying to keep my heavy bike stabel and im unsure how accurate the speed is.

 

[flik9999]

Also some bike specific stuff which isnt electric based.

Weight of bike without kit is about 13/14 kg its a low end gaspipe bike. So I think its probably about 22/23 kgs with the kit, rack and basket along with all the inner tube I had to use to secure the battery and basket.
Dropbars with suicide levers.
Tyres are 32mm front 40mm rear (This might be costing me a little bit of speed but not sure, also not sure if a 25mm is safe with the extra weight of the motor)
Pedals are normal not spd
Brakes: front is dual calliper, rear is single

 

[D8ve]

It's resistance not weight that's critical on the flat.
Weight wise I'm 120kg with bike that's 18 stone territory. On my BH with drops I was running at 18 mph.
A little faster on the recumbent.
The fastest road bike ever weighed about 40kg and had a top speed of over 86 mph two ways measured mile.
It's a super streamlined low drag recumbent.

Energy use is different on electric bike.
Weight slows acceleration, but the motor makes you really fast at 0-15 and you stay fresh. A roady has to work for that.
Hill climbing, loads of old fat types here cruse past roadies uphill.
So you are quicker of the line and up hill.
You also are fresher, not out of puff.
So you have more energy to use on the flat.
SPD,s help you use more muscle putting that out.
More propulsion means faster on the same bike.
A good roady will hit 30+ in a sprint and 50 down hill.
But think how old and fit are you?
They work hard and have earned their KOM,s
Anyone on a motorbike is quicker, that is cheating.
As an athsmatic I use the assist when I can't pedal well.
The rest of the time it's great excersise and keeps me fit.

Disk brakes are just good. Way better overall than v brakes.
Stopping wet or dry without adjustment for years, not days.
Tyres will make a very small % difference more like 0.x mph unless you ride 4 inch nobblies.
Road surface and wind are two huge issues. Road surface can easily take 3mph off my speed.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You should be able to go pretty fast on that bike if you derestrict the controller. Try what's in this video (see 00:50 press and hold up and down buttons together), and let us know if it works. If there's no speed limit there, try pressing and holding them again for a long time when you're already in the first settings:

 

[flik9999]

My speed limiter was already set to 72 kph by default. Cyclotricity told me that the motor slowly powers down as you reach the 15.5 mph limit.

I can currently reach about 20 mph on flat if I push hard.

 

[LeighPing]

My speed limiter was already set to 72 kph by default. Cyclotricity told me that the motor slowly powers down as you reach the 15.5 mph limit.

I can currently reach about 20 mph on flat if I push hard.

At what speed does it actually cut off?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Yes, please lift the wheel off the ground and see what the maximum speed is that it spins.