Can I change 36v for 48v battery?

[Jason Fitchew]

Hi, I have a Pro Rider E Tourer which comes with a 36v 10ah Fish battery. Does anyone know if it’s possible to replace this with a 48v version for a little more oomph?

 

[anotherkiwi]

If you change the controller too.

 

[Jason Fitchew]

Thanks for response Anotherkiwi - do you mean the small controller on the handlebars that you set the power assistance level? Is there a recommended alternative that would work with both 36v and 48v?

 

[wheeliepete]

No, the controller is the small metal box with lots of wires coming out of it located in the compartment under the battery. This one should work, but you may have to cut and solder some wires as the connectors may not match. Post some clear photos of your controller and the connectors for better advise.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36-48V-350W-Motor-Speed-Controller-LCD-Display-For-Electric-Bike-Scooter-ZH/232781266082

 

[Nealh]

Generally it is best to buy a new 48v controller but that said needs to be compatible with your led/lcd so needs to be the same maker.
You can try using the original controller if you know the voltage of the main inrush capacitor which has the voltage marked on it, if 63v then you can use your controller. The down side is you need a way to manage/monitor the voltage as your old controllers lvc will too low and you don't want to deep discharge the battery, though that said battery BMS will have a lvc cut off.

 

[Jason Fitchew]

Thanks. I've finally got round to opening up the enclosure with controller (3615DLC-10Y0) in it.
Can anyone confirm that the controller suggested by wheeliepete will work as a 48V replacement?
Also, would I be correct in saying that it doesn't look like I have a speed restriction as there is only one white wire going into that end bit of metal (see 2nd picture). I also find that my bike goes a good 1.5mph faster (~16.5mph) with a fully recharged battery.

 

[Nealh]

The linked controller with lcd will work as it is also a sine wave one with halls.
You will need to identify your throttle and pas wire connector to see if they are compatible with said controller. Speed wise it has a trimming port to adjust speed.
For a 48v controller it isn't the most powerful at 13a though can output 624w nominal or 706w on a full charged 48v battery@54.6v.
Up to assist /pas level 4 you will get up to about 400w and then in pas 5 you get the full whack.

Your controller with spare white wire looks like a speed hall wire for hub internal speed sensor.

 

[Jason Fitchew]

Thanks Nealh for your informative response.
400W would be great. Could the upper limit of 624W+ be too much for the motor\wheel?

 

[Nealh]

Thanks Nealh for your informative response.
400W would be great. Could the upper limit of 624W+ be too much for the motor\wheel?

Generally it should be fine as long as you don't labour the hub or let it bog down at slow speed, high assist for hills and lower assist on the flat . Throttle will give max amp and watts to the wheel. At only 13a +/- 1a any battery should be good though as always buy one with the best cells you can afford.

Any idea of the hub you have or any markings on it, show us a pic or two. It might be Ananda brand as controller is.

 

[Jason Fitchew]

Can’t see a make but I’ve taken these pictures

 

[Nealh]

Can't tell make but it is a chunky looking diameter hub so should offer no problems with over volting a little and at 13a you are not hot rodding it, so I don't see to many issues.
A lot on how it performs is dependant on the hub winding/rpm speed.

 

[Jason Fitchew]

ok great - I've ordered that controller and will first try and get it working with the existing 36V battery. If all is ok then I'll splash-out £200+ on a 48v battery!
BTW: just noticed on the last hub picture that it says Dia-Compe

 

[Jason Fitchew]

*2nd picture (not last)

 

[Nealh]

Nothing to do with the hub, Dia-combe make bike components and looks like you have hub brakes.