Help! Can anyone help me identify this Powabyke model please?

[shelleywa]

Hi all. I am selling some stuff for my Dad. He has an old Powabyke. I can't find a model name/number on it (why do manufacturers do that?!) and I know nothing about electric bikes. Have Googled but can't find out what it is. I think it's quite old. I'm hoping some in-the-know folk on here might be able to help! Any info will be greatly appreciated, thank you

 

[Baboonking]

That's the original Powabyke. I'm not sure they had a specifc model number. I'd just describe it by its features. Rear hub motor. 36 volt lead acid battery.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Hi all. I am selling some stuff for my Dad. He has an old Powabyke. I can't find a model name/number on it (why do manufacturers do that?!) and I know nothing about electric bikes. Have Googled but can't find out what it is. I think it's quite old. I'm hoping some in-the-know folk on here might be able to help! Any info will be greatly appreciated, thank you


View attachment 31002

Do charge the battery occasionally, otherwise it will be useless and may represent most of the bike's value today.
If the charger LED remains on green, it is probably already in trouble, check that the voltage is well above 28 volts. Below that it will refuse to charge anymore, though a good bike shop might be able to reverse it with a special charger.
Fully charged (I am assuming a Li-ion) should be 42 volts! But keeping it at around 35v, till you sell it, is adequate.
regards
Andy

 

[flecc]

Yes, no model name for that original one sold from 1999 on.

Later it had the motor swapped to the front wheel which eventually became known as the Powabyke Euro model.
.

 

[flash]

Beat me to it Flecc

 

[vfr400]

wasn't it called the Powabyke Shopper?

 

[flecc]

wasn't it called the Powabyke Shopper?

No, the Shopper model in all variations had a deeper step through frame. Here's one, the late E100 version:

And here's the early one:

 

[shelleywa]

Do charge the battery occasionally, otherwise it will be useless and may represent most of the bike's value today.
If the charger LED remains on green, it is probably already in trouble, check that the voltage is well above 28 volts. Below that it will refuse to charge anymore, though a good bike shop might be able to reverse it with a special charger.
Fully charged (I am assuming a Li-ion) should be 42 volts! But keeping it at around 35v, till you sell it, is adequate.
regards
Andy

A bit late for that, unfortunately. My Dad's been out of action for a while now and therefore so has the bike. Although, he seems to remember it was in need of new batteries, even when he used it last. I think they're a gonner! I doubt this is really worth much without a working battery, if it's from 1999. It's heavy, too!

 

[vfr400]

Those bikes do have some redeeming features. They have a throttle and the motor gives immense torque. Batteries are around £25 each (you need three) if you buy them separately, open the case and put them in yourself, which isn't too difficult.

If I had a bike like that and wanted to keep it going, I'd open the case, take out the batteries and replace them with a lithium cell-pack that would cost about £180 to £200. It would make the bike a lot lighter, give double the range and be more tolerant of occasional use.

 

[shelleywa]

Those bikes do have some redeeming features. They have a throttle and the motor gives immense torque. Batteries are around £25 each (you need three) if you buy them separately, open the case and put them in yourself, which isn't too difficult.

If I had a bike like that and wanted to keep it going, I'd open the case, take out the batteries and replace them with a lithium cell-pack that would cost about £180 to £200. It would make the bike a lot lighter, give double the range and be more tolerant of occasional use.

Thanks! I will have to remember that for his ad