Cable fault 1E error code

[redstar99]

here's a photo of the other side of the circuit board

 

[vfr400]

here's a photo of the other side of the circuit board

You can see one end of the reed switch connected to black and the other end to white. it's weird that it has so many wires and solder joints in it because it only needs two wires.

You can make your own cable brake switches by taping a reed switch to your crossbar under one of the open cables, then stick or heatshrink one of those magnets to the cable, so that the magnet moves onto or away from the switch when the cable moves. Some reed switches are naturally on (NC)and get switched off by a magnet, others are the other way round (NO). Some are both, like this one depending which of the two wires you connect:

Buy Reed switch 1p NC/NO 0.25A 15-20AT at the right price @ electrokit

75.00 SEK * Reed switch 1p NC/NO 0.25A 15-20AT original Littelfuse brand Reed switch 1-pole. The contact has separate outputs for normally closed and normally open. The available from Electrokit

www.electrokit.com

 

[redstar99]

initially when I connected the magnets to the cable wires inside the box and fit it back together, the error code was still flashing, when I pressed the rear brake the error code stopped but I still had and exclamation mark on the display, I took it out for a ride but the motor didn't kick in at all, I had a powerful magnet with me and moved it over the sensor box I just thought I'd fixed, and the exclamation mark disappeared and the motor started up and powered away, as soon as I moved the magnet away from the sensor the exclamation mark came back immediately and it switched the motor off.....so those two little magnets or the circuit board was put back in are not in the right place for the sensors to catch the brake signal from the magnets on the brake cable......I will try and sort it out tomorrow when I get back from work, thanks for the input Vfr400.

 

[redstar99]

You can see one end of the reed switch connected to black and the other end to white. it's weird that it has so many wires and solder joints in it because it only needs two wires.

You can make your own cable brake switches by taping a reed switch to your crossbar under one of the open cables, then stick or heatshrink one of those magnets to the cable, so that the magnet moves onto or away from the switch when the cable moves. Some reed switches are naturally on (NC)and get switched off by a magnet, others are the other way round (NO). Some are both, like this one depending which of the two wires you connect:

Buy Reed switch 1p NC/NO 0.25A 15-20AT at the right price @ electrokit

75.00 SEK * Reed switch 1p NC/NO 0.25A 15-20AT original Littelfuse brand Reed switch 1-pole. The contact has separate outputs for normally closed and normally open. The available from Electrokit

www.electrokit.com

that would be an easier option than the rig that's been put together on the circuit board....I'm not up on all these types of reed switches but it sounds better than what I have set up and a lot less hassle, I will think how I'm going to do this.....will I have to use that circuit board?

 

[vfr400]

that would be an easier option than the rig that's been put together on the circuit board....I'm not up on all these types of reed switches but it sounds better than what I have set up and a lot less hassle, I will think how I'm going to do this.....will I have to use that circuit board?

You get the error code when the switch is on before you switch the controller on. it's telling you that the switch is stuck on, but if everything is assembled correctly, the switch will sort itself out as soon as you operate the brake. normally, when you get the error code with one of those switches, you switch off the controller, operate the brake a couple of times to get the magnet in its home position, then switch on again.

 

[Andy-Mat]

What's on the other side. I'd expect to see a hall sensor or two.

The "sensor" on this PCB is a reed relay, you can see it clearly in the first photo. Probably no Hall effect sensors.....
As its very unlikely both will be used on the same PCB.....

 

[redstar99]

You get the error code when the switch is on before you switch the controller on. it's telling you that the switch is stuck on, but if everything is assembled correctly, the switch will sort itself out as soon as you operate the brake. normally, when you get the error code with one of those switches, you switch off the controller, operate the brake a couple of times to get the magnet in its home position, then switch on again.

the switch seems open circuit at the moment on the reed switch, I did a continuity test and got no audible beep to show it was closed, even when I waved a magnet in close proximity to it....here's a closer picture of the reed switch.

 

[redstar99]

and here's another one.....you would have thought that the magnet would have closed the switch to give continuity, but looking at it, it seems closed?

 

[redstar99]

The "sensor" on this PCB is a reed relay, you can see it clearly in the first photo. Probably no Hall effect sensors.....
As its very unlikely both will be used on the same PCB.....

Hi Andy

I can only see the reed switch that Vfr400 pointed out, and the two magnets on each cable that's all.
hopefully once I put it back together tonight it should work.

but!......does the way you put the magnets inside the multi box matter? do the magnets have to be put in with both polarity's opposite and attracting? or opposite each other with opposing polarity's repplelling each other?

 

[redstar99]

Sorry....spelling error up there ^^^^ should be Repelling each other!

 

[Andy-Mat]

Hi Andy

I can only see the reed switch that Vfr400 pointed out, and the two magnets on each cable that's all.
hopefully once I put it back together tonight it should work.

but!......does the way you put the magnets inside the multi box matter? do the magnets have to be put in with both polarity's opposite and attracting? or opposite each other with opposing polarity's repplelling each other?

The usual type of reed switch, is a normally open contact, which closes when a magnet comes close.
A multi meter on ohms, placed across the reed switch should tell you if it is operating correctly or not.
If I remember correctly, possibly some reed switches are magnet polarity sensitive, but that is very seldom.
Another possibility, is that the contacts have had too much current, and are now welded together. But they are cheap and easily replaced....Try ebay or a hobby shop!
Regards
Andy

 

[redstar99]

The usual type of reed switch, is a normally open contact, which closes when a magnet comes close.
A multi meter on ohms, placed across the reed switch should tell you if it is operating correctly or not.
If I remember correctly, possibly some reed switches are magnet polarity sensitive, but that is very seldom.
Another possibility, is that the contacts have had too much current, and are now welded together. But they are cheap and easily replaced....Try ebay or a hobby shop!
Regards
Andy

OK thanks for the info Andy, it look`s like the fault is intermittent now when I put it together, another thing maybe is the magnetic field that I subjected the reed switch to may be to strong for it and may have pushed it beyond it's tolerance.....who knows? I will try another reed switch and see how it pans out.

 

[vfr400]

OK thanks for the info Andy, it look`s like the fault is intermittent now when I put it together, another thing maybe is the magnetic field that I subjected the reed switch to may be to strong for it and may have pushed it beyond it's tolerance.....who knows? I will try another reed switch and see how it pans out.

As I said above, reed switches come in three flavours: NO = normally open; NC = normally closes; and NC/NO = both depending on which wire you connect.

The circuit needs to be open when the brake is off and closed when the brake is on, but you need to know where the magnet rests when the brake is off to decide which type you need, which reminds me:

If you put the device the wrong way round, you get the problem you experienced because the magnet will rest at the wrong end. This is a big problem with these devices because they don't tell you which end of the brake cable they go. It will fit either end if you reverse it, but when reversed, it'll be on when it should be off.

 

[Andy-Mat]

OK thanks for the info Andy, it look`s like the fault is intermittent now when I put it together, another thing maybe is the magnetic field that I subjected the reed switch to may be to strong for it and may have pushed it beyond it's tolerance.....who knows? I will try another reed switch and see how it pans out.

Best wishes.
Andy

 

[redstar99]

I've just resoldered the blue wire back on the circuit board, and put it back together again, and it now works....the motors kicking in now so I'm up and running again, looking at your last post Vfr400 you may be right! even though it's working now, when the rear brakes pulled there is no signal on the display, but when I pull the front brake the cut off signal comes on.....so the magnets have definitely to be in the right place next to the reed switch......also originally when I put the magnets back in and used the brakes, the magnets would end up stuck to the circuit board as they had come out of the slots they were in, so I got some non conductive paper from a kit kat bar, cut a piece wide enough to cover the gap where the magnets kept slipping out, then cellotaped them into the brake slots....maybe not a good idea but for now it's worked!

thanks for the info guys...I had no idea that component was a reed switch at the time....but magnifying it definitely confirmed it!

 

[vfr400]

A good thread with a happy ending.

I'd never seen a double one like that before.. It's been great analysing how they work. All the ones I've used have been single with three wires and a hall sensor inside.