Broken my 'new to me' Wisper bike after 5 minutes

[vfr400]

O.K I will try that tomorrow. I believe I have to discharge the capacitor first by shorting the Live and Ground together, is that correct?

I never bother. What you can get, depending on whether it's charged or not and which way round you put your probes, is the result continuously climbing or falling as the capacitor charges or discharges from or through the meter. That doesn't matter as long as you get the same on each reading.

 

[crystaljohn]

O.K I understand, I will test tomorrow. thanks for your help.

 

[Nealh]

One can if one wishes, the only difference if you don't is the results on the Red to phase will give a different reading. 1 or infinity to indicate all is well, a reading of zero would indicate a shorted fet.

 

[Andy-Mat]

O.K I will try that tomorrow. I believe I have to discharge the capacitor first by shorting the Live and Ground together, is that correct?

Unless you are MORE THAN 100% sure as to what you are doing, that cannot be recommended, as if you happen to accidentally short the live and ground of the battery, you may melt cables and damage components even more.
But your choice at the end of the day.
The voltages in e-bikes are generally below any voltage danger level, but currents can damage and heat components, and possibly cause burns, painful ones possibly.
Therefore remove any rings and watch straps made of metal before touching anything, is normal good advice.
I was actually present, I drove him to Hospital, when a colleague shorted a huge 12 volt power supply with a Pinky ring, which eventually cost him that finger, as he ripped all the skin off, trying to get the ring off the power supply supply, where it had welded itself to, and had heated up, to actually melt! The rest of the ring stayed where it was, after some dripped on the floor of the power supply, till the short was broken.
The power supply was not even damaged, only the human was damaged!
Another friend of mine, many years ago, was leaning over the open bonnet of his beautiful restored 240Z, had his watch strap do the same thing on his car battery, which on a 240Z, were two very hefty 6 volt batteries in series, probably able to discharge around 500 amps or more! He had a painful burn on the inside of his wrist, the strap got welded together, and he could not remove it and had to run in the kitchen and run cold water on it, and I eventually used side cutters to get it off, before he went to hospital!
Even 12 volts can be MOST painful.....
Andy

 

[Nealh]

I suspect as an electrician CJ has the nous to remove any power supply first, in this case one is definitely teaching grandmother how to suck eggs.

 

[crystaljohn]

Yes, I am acutely aware of the dangers. Never worn a watch or jewellery in my life.
I'm wise enough in this particular area to know that it doesn't hurt to be reminded , so many thanks.

Controller removed from the bike and power source.


Completed the tests.
shorted out the Live to Neutral connections first. ( Hell of a flash which I was prepared for!)


N---G=9.76K
N--- Y=9.76K
N--- B=9.76K


had to use the 200M range doing this test as on lower ranges the readings were continually dropping.


L--- G=0.6M
L--- Y=0.6M
L--- B=0.6M


So all good here then?

 

[vfr400]

Completed the tests.
shorted out the Live to Nuetral connections first. ( Hell of a flash which I was prepared for!)


N---G=9.76K
N--- Y=9.76K
N--- B=9.76K


had to use the 200M range doing this test as on lower ranges the readings were continually dropping.


L--- G=0.6M
L--- Y=0.6M
L--- B=0.6M


So all good here then?

Yup, they look pretty good to me.

While you're there, you might as welĺ check the motor hall sensors.
Check that you have 5v between red and black, then check black to blue, then green, then yellow while you turn the wheel backwards to see the 5v switching on and off on each one.

 

[crystaljohn]

O.k I understand , I'll do that test soon.

 

[crystaljohn]

Just got hold of an ' ebike tester'
I'm about to go out so will be back on the case later on.

 

[Andy-Mat]

I suspect as an electrician CJ has the nous to remove any power supply first, in this case one is definitely teaching grandmother how to suck eggs.

Better safe than sorry was always a good idea.
None of us know exactly his knowledge level with e-bikes, their batteries, their electronics and power. Its also a lot different to mains electrics! Radically so!
The two people I mentioned were both professionals, one a computer technician of many years who should have known better, the other a car mechanic.....both were quite severely injured, not life threatening, but very, very painful.
Therefore I feel that your post was entirely unneeded on a forum where many pride themselves on good manners and friendliness....
The question is why you felt the need to be so unfriendly again?
As you have done it before, but I have given you the benefit of the doubt each time, this was once too many.....
In this life, one has to decide on what sort of person one wants to be, some get stuck with a bad choice, and you are not alone here or on the internet either...
Sad.

 

[crystaljohn]

I have now tested the hall sensors and the motor windings using the 'ebike tester'

All working as they should be.

 

[vfr400]

I have now tested the hall sensors and the motor windings using the 'ebike tester'

All working as they should be.

Did you check the 5v? You can't use the ebike tester for that.

 

[crystaljohn]

Did you check the 5v? You can't use the ebike tester for that.

I did try to check for the 5 volts, was thwarted by my meter probes being too large to fit in the back of the connectors, I need to sort that tomorrow.
I think that as the diagnostic lights are flashing the power is possibly being inhibited from powering up the controller circuitry.
Do you think that's a possibility?

 

[vfr400]

I did try to check for the 5 volts, was thwarted by my meter probes being too large to fit in the back of the connectors, I need to sort that tomorrow.
I think that as the diagnostic lights are flashing the power is possibly being inhibited from powering up the controller circuitry.
Do you think that's a possibility?

Sorry, I haven't a clue what you mean.

 

[crystaljohn]

Sorry, I haven't a clue what you mean.

What I was trying to say was when I switch the bike on, one light starts flashing, followed 15 seconds later by the entire bottom row of 6 lights flashing on/off. I'm wondering if because of this that power is not getting to the Hall sensors, P A.S, and throttle.

 

[vfr400]

What I was trying to say was when I switch the bike on, one light starts flashing, followed 15 seconds later by the entire bottom row of 6 lights flashing on/off. I'm wondering if because of this that power is not getting to the Hall sensors, P A.S, and throttle.

That's why you have to measure the 5v. It shows that the controller is switched on.

 

[crystaljohn]

That's why you have to measure the 5v. It shows that the controller is switched on.

Got it. I have a hunch- won't be able to confirm until I modify my meter probes tomorrow- that the controller is not switched on, because something has triggered a warning ( the lights flashing on the display are indicating this).
I did try disconnection the brake switches to eliminate them.

 

[mike killay]

I am not an expert but can we go back to the start. You say that the bungee caught up in the gears and the bike stopped.
The cable from the motor is on the left hand side, did it get involved with the bungee at all or was the bungee only on the right hand side?
I suppose that you do not have a throttle and also that you applied the brakes, so I doubt that you damaged the electrics.
The motor cable is not plugged in properly, I should pull it apart, lightly oil it and put it back ensuring that the plug meets the line..
Could the motor cable have got pulled by the bungee?
Further, on the left hand side of the bike there is cable above the cable motor that seems to be badly pinched.

 

[crystaljohn]

I am not an expert but can we go back to the start. You say that the bungee caught up in the gears and the bike stopped.
The cable from the motor is on the left hand side, did it get involved with the bungee at all or was the bungee only on the right hand side?
I suppose that you do not have a throttle and also that you applied the brakes, so I doubt that you damaged the electrics.
The motor cable is not plugged in properly, I should pull it apart, lightly oil it and put it back ensuring that the plug meets the line..
Could the motor cable have got pulled by the bungee?
Further, on the left hand side of the bike there is cable above the cable motor that seems to be badly pinched.

Yes, bungee wound itself around the hub, I believe also the gears. Didn't get near the motor cable which is despite what you say, firmly plugged in fully, as I have previously mentioned.
The bike has a throttle.
The cable you mention that is badly pinched is for the rear light.

 

[vfr400]

Yes, bungee wound itself around the hub, I believe also the gears. Didn't get near the motor cable which is despite what you say, firmly plugged in fully, as I have previously mentioned.
The bike has a throttle.
The cable you mention that is badly pinched is for the rear light.

I didn't notice that other cable. If it's pinched and shorted. I would say there's a pretty good chance that it's the source of your problems. I'm not sure it's damaged where tied, like it shows in the photo, but could be damaged somewhere else. It can be easily eliminated by disconnecting it from the controller.