looks like this one is the brightest normal bike light if you don't want the bulk of the 5 Cree XML T6 torch. This one has three LEDs so should be three times as bright as the one I previously recommended. I have a torch with the same LEDs and it's as bright as a car halogen headlight on full beam.
HOT 3 x CREE XM-L T6 LED 4000LM Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Light Headlamp | eBay
In case anyone is interested in wiring one of these in, I hooked one up to my CREE circuit which runs off a 36V bike battery and uses one of these 9V 3A-rated HRD step-down converters :
HRD Series Converter DC 12v 24v 36v step down to 9v 3A | eBay
Closest listing now active I could find is this one :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3x-CREE-LED-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-4000Lm-Bicycle-Light-Bike-Lamp-HeadLight-headLamp-R1-/271112420865?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_Bike_Lights&hash=item3f1f8f3e01
These lights flatten the little 18650 8.4v pack batteries that come with them pretty quickly if run on higher settings and so for longer rides wiring in is likely to make them more useable. To help calculate approximate power consumption these are the readings I got at the battery (i.e. before the step-down converter) :
Latent draw when connected but not in use : 0.02A
Low power - 0.18A
Medium power - 0.44A
High power - 0.50A
I have one of these adaptors that I got very cheap on Dealextreme :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magicshine-Y-Splitter-lead-cable-to-fit-LED-bike-light-MJ-880-/221207322705?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Cycling_Bike_Lights&hash=item3380fbe051
.. and decided to hook in a Magicshine 3W rear light (MJ-818) to see whether both could be run together. The reading adding in the rear light on constant max brightness before the battery was 0.60A.
I decided to measure current after the step-down converter with both front and rear lights connected to see how close to the 3A max current rating of the DC-DC converter this would bring you to.
These are the readings, in all cases with rear light on constant max brightness :
Front on Low power - 0.95A
Front on Medium power - 2.17A
Front on High power - 2.50A
About 0.3A of the above figures are attributable to the rear light.
So ..... running the light on max power along with a rear light also on Max brings you within 85% of the DC-DC converter capacity - but still within it - and only drawing 0.6A at the battery. The HRD converters have a very large heatsink and do look up to the job. To run additional front CREEs with this on high, you'd best have a secondary DC-DC converter for them - but you can happily run a very high powered front light and a very high powered rear one pretty economically.
Impressive.
EDIT : - oh - don't forget to put an isolator switch in to break the supply to this light when it's not in use - especially if you don't disconnect your battery and leave it on the bike. The latent current draw when it's not on is a lot higher than any of the other lights I've tested (compares to nil to not even registering for a single CREE and rear light).