I just bought one for £40 incl tax, approx half the price you can buy it in UK for.Yes I also heard that during my Googlings, and have since seen parameters being tweaked to reduce muffliness - I imagine if those noises were shoved through a medium sized cab into a SM-57 to an audio interface, it could sound damned good. I don't think I'm one of those lucky people with perfect pitch (I can tune guitars by ear), but the distorion of Orange guitar amps sound the most in tune to my ears. I like heavy metal and grunge (also classical, jazz, almost any music. I absolutely hate musicals. Complete brain shut down aversion to musicals), especially when distortion sounds in tune, free from bum notes. Or perhaps I am just obsessed with orange coloured objects. The world of guitar gear is something which the local bands I know go on about endlessly. Some of the guitarists I know are awesome, so is the gear, athough these days they all mostly amp model. One of my mates in particular, started playing aged 7 - can play anything and sound like anyone. Useful dude to know, if I need a guitar part engineered or played.
Weird little strands of digital sounding waves can be hidden by playing bad amp modelling (like my Boss Micro BR produces, and the first version of Guitar Rig) through a cab, and SM-57 natural compression can make shortcomings even harder to spot... while still leaving scope to make a cheap guitar setup sound unique and slightly more expensive, by tweaking the effects and/or amp modelling earlier in the chain. On the other hand, I could be completely wrong. Fortunately all manner of wrong can be labelled art.No SM57 required, in fact that's the goal to remove the amp and so mic and use the IRs on the pedal.
If my bike didn't need to fold, I could attach that headlight sideways on the handbar stem. Alternatively, the Minoura Spacebar I linked earlier can be vertically oriented, swivels - I had two mounted like that at one point, impeded bike folding. Perhaps some other mount could be attached to some other part of your bike somehow? That headlight is held on to the handlebar clamp using two short bolts. You might need to make an adapter plate for this mount, to attach to the handlebar stem (if the handlebar stem on your bike has room).Real estate was probably a deciding factor too.
The Tank FX has an XLR output ;-) !!It's handy to keep XLR and other leads and nicnacs in my shopping cart, in case a small item I do actually need, is required to qualify for free delivery or some discount
I've seen unwanted noise and tiny noise aterfacts being removed at a granular level using Izotope on Youtube, haven't used it myself. Developed by a boffin dude who analysed seismic noise. Some artists of minimal electronic music remove so much, there's hardly anything left, leaving more space for extreme loudness, or simply more empty space.The Tank FX has an XLR output ;-) !!
The CubeBaby is noisy as **** not helped by playing it near lots of electrical gear but anyway the Tank has a built in noise gate too that apparently now works properly with the latest firmware upgrade. So three noise gates should sort it out.
Some reviewers say it's still noisy.
Hadn't heard of the Hydrogen drum machine, thanks for the heads up. Looks useful for dragging through my fako Korg MS-20 (VST, I can't afford to buy and maintain a real one, or cope with the hiss).Am trying Audacity and Hydrogen / Hammer for quick basic drum pattern multi-track guitar idea recording.
I don't trust any connector to be waterproof on my rained on and sometimes partially submerged bike, prefer solder and waterproofing using self-adhesive marine heat shrink and self-amalgamating rubber tape. I don't even like that my DPC-18 display has a USB connector. I bought these "Waterproof" connectors for my garden shed sound system ebike battery powered hookup. They're not challenged by water much in that situation. I may in future tow amps and speakers in my bike trailer, host impromptu ebike powered roadside gigs, with cheapo LED projectors and frickin' laser beams (not joking).I had that headlight in my basket until the end and was one of the last things I removed, it was a toss up as I had an easy way to get it working, just wire the headlight up to a kettle plug and I can swap it at will with my USB port kettle plug in controller bag.
These ebay ones don't appear to come with a switch so that's another £6 from ebay.That headlight usually qualifies for free delivery. And it's actually cheaper on ebay, because no VAT is added when you checkout, unlike AliExpress. Might be posted from China, might not:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166574416148
View attachment 61077
I never planned to have so many lights. Added what I needed, as it became apparent the road required more illumination. It's got decent coverage now, but good can always be better, and better can always be mine.
That looks exactly like my 12 LED headlight, which only works up to 30V, contrary to the listing. I I had to connect it in series with one of my headlights which actually do operate 12V-80V, to reduce voltage. It has a more diffuse/wider beam compared to the ebay version with fewer LEDs. Next time I make wiring adjustments, I'll put at least two quick blow blade fuses in series inline (instead of the one present presently), because this Grin dude says they don't always blow so quick, sometimes don't blow at all, and have caused battery fires - my ebike battery is too valuable to risk. Maybe I'll solder three blade fuses inline. Increase the odds.These ebay ones don't appear to come with a switch so that's another £6 from ebay.
Going to get this one
View attachment 61091
I bought these good few yrs ago thought they might useful for slot car track wiring, were never use in end as found better alternatives. Must admit no idea to actually work them....I don't trust any connector to be waterproof on my rained on and sometimes partially submerged bike, prefer solder and waterproofing using self-adhesive marine heat shrink and self-amalgamating rubber tape. I don't even like that my DPC-18 display has a USB connector. I bought these "Waterproof" connectors for my garden shed sound system ebike battery powered hookup. They're not challenged by water much in that situation. I may in future tow amps and speakers in my bike trailer, host impromptu ebike powered roadside gigs, with cheapo LED projectors and frickin' laser beams (not joking).
LD16 IP68 Waterproof Connector Socket Plug Back Nut Docking Flange 2 pin 3 pin 4 pin Screw Crimping Without Welding Connector - AliExpress 13
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comvi.aliexpress.com
Yes fuse(s) seems like a good idea on +ve wire.That looks exactly like my 12 LED headlight, which only works up to 30V, contrary to the listing. I I had to connect it in series with one of my headlights which actually do operate 12V-80V, to reduce voltage. It has a more diffuse/wider beam compared to the ebay version with fewer LEDs. Next time I make wiring adjustments, I'll put at least two quick blow blade fuses in series inline (instead of the one present presently), because this Grin dude says they don't always blow so quick, sometimes don't blow at all, and have caused battery fires - my ebike battery is too valuable to risk. Maybe I'll solder three blade fuses inline. Increase the odds.
Says all sorts of stuff on listings. The seller refused to refund, demanded video proof it didn't work at 36V... but apart from my ebike battery, I I didn't have another power supply at the time. Eventually bought a cheapo 36V power supply to test, the light I bought only works up to 32V, looks exactly the same as the one you posted a pic of. However, it's been a year or two, and the inner gubbins may be different.According to the spec for that light is does say 80V and 60W?
After measuring current drawn by that light, I recall approximating all of my ebike battery soldered lights draw a little less than 2A in total. The 2A blade fuse hasn't blown, so unless the fuse isn't a functional one, they must. With two inline in series, one may blow, or the other, or both, or neither if both blade fuses are dangerous utter shite which should not be trusted by dudes to protect their valuable ebike batteries with.P=V*I
60=52*I so I=60/52
I=1.15A so light will draw little over 1A on high beam which seems about right.
So a 1.6A or 2A quick blow is probably in order. Not sure what the benefit is of two in series, when one blows other is redundant and they will either both blow or not blow as they are off very similar tolerances? Or are you using two different types of quick blow fuse?
I bought those too, and recently. For my ebike battery powered thermal bodysuit, to keep warm at home or while cycling. Available at all good shops now.I bought these good few yrs ago thought they might useful for slot car track wiring, were never use in end as found better alternatives. Must admit no idea to actually work them....
https://www.amazon.co.uk/waterproof-connectors-electric-connector-motorcycle/dp/B0946MTKZH