Brakes

[Benjahmin]

Once again my rear brake has faded away to nothing, leaving me coming down a steep slimey run of tarmac (with full panniers of shopping) relying on front brake only - at risk of it breaking away. Half way down it too wore to metal leaving me in a right pickle.
So, replaced front pads - no problem. Stripped down the back to find no apparent glazing and not worn and I know it's not chain oil 'coz I don't use any.
I've bought good quality (Clarkes) organic pads and I've just put a new Tektro disk on that I had spare. But I think it's gonna re-occur, 'cos this is about the 4th time.
Is there an upgrade for the Tektro mech caliper that might help?
I'm thinking of upgrading to a 180mm disc - what caliper adaptor do I need to ask for? Photo below.


I don't want to go hydraulic because I find the cut off switch too useful.

 

[KirstinS]

Mech discs are invariablely poor. I had set of tekro mech on my hybrid. Hated them. Set of cheap shimano hydro changed the bike. And never need faffing with either

Just get hydraulic brakes and a hydraulic switch if you find them useful

 

[KirstinS]

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[Benjahmin]

Thanks Kirsten. I hear what you're saying. Problem is I have an Ezee hub, I've got one of those actuators lying around somewhere (bought it eons ago) and the switching was the wrong way round. That's to say it cut the motor when not operated and allowed the motor to run when lever was pulled. Couldn't figure how to get the magnet to move away from the sensor as you let go of the lever, or some how reverse the switching.
I have hydraulic on the front and agree they are boss.
I'm wondering if this problem is some combination of pad and disc. Pads are quality (hopefully) Clarks ones. So thought a quality disc might help and thought to go to 180mm while I was at it.

 

[wheeliepete]

If you want to stick with cable calipers, I've had good service from Avid BB7, easy to keep adjusted. If you want to fit a 180mm disc, you need a 40mm IS adapter.

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[KirstinS]

Thanks Kirsten. I hear what you're saying. Problem is I have an Ezee hub, I've got one of those actuators lying around somewhere (bought it eons ago) and the switching was the wrong way round. That's to say it cut the motor when not operated and allowed the motor to run when lever was pulled. Couldn't figure how to get the magnet to move away from the sensor as you let go of the lever, or some how reverse the switching.
I have hydraulic on the front and agree they are boss.
I'm wondering if this problem is some combination of pad and disc. Pads are quality (hopefully) Clarks ones. So thought a quality disc might help and thought to go to 180mm while I was at it.

That's a new one on me!

Might be worth buying another switch?

 

[Benjahmin]

Thanks Pete, that's the info I needed.
As to the switch, I don't think thyere's anything wrong with it, it's just that the switching/pin configuration on the Ezee control line is arse about face!

 

[Benjahmin]

Just been out with the new 160mm disc and cleaned pads - absolute carp. It's really like the brake isn't there, so definitely going for the bigger disc.
Have tried again with the bbs switch but it just won't have it.

 

[vfr400]

All that expense and messing about, when you could fit a hydraulic brake and have it sorted?

Cable disc brakes are basically useless by comparison. You might get it a bit better for a short while. Christmas is coming. Do yourself a favour. You deserve it.

 

[Benjahmin]

I've got an 'orrible feeling you're right - parachute in the pannier is the next option.

 

[vfr400]

I've got an 'orrible feeling you're right - parachute in the pannier is the next option.

I've got a few spare anchors and chains. Any one of them would stop you quicker than what you have at the moment.

 

[Benjahmin]

I'd just loose it in the hedge as there's no lamp posts around here, so my main aspiration is just to be able to slow down!

 

[Benjahmin]

OK, my van's off the road and I'm bored. So I've got the meter out and I've been bashing through my box of bits.
Turns out that both the switch on my bike and the bbs mag switch are normally open. There is no circuit when the brake is released, giving a circuit when brake is pulled. It's the pin configuration that's awry.
So hydraulic could be on the cards afterall. I'll just cut off those horrible little yellow connectors and hard wire. I'm an electrician, damit, how hard can it be?

 

[vfr400]

Turns out that both the switch on my bike and the bbs mag switch are normally open. There is no circuit when the brake is released, giving a circuit when brake is pulled. It's the pin configuration that's awry.
So hydraulic could be on the cards afterall. I'll just cut off those horrible little yellow connectors and hard wire. I'm an electrician, damit, how hard can it be?

That's more like it.