Brake noise
- Thread starter bigclick
- Start date
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Deleted member 4366
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I too can't seem to stop the squeal on my front so I give the brake a few sharp tugs in a row a bit like car abs which seems to be a temporary fix, but you could try bedding the pads in, like in this link.
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-bed-in-disc-brake-pads-31337/
the thing that did it for me is realising that there is more to it than just pulling the brake and fastening the calliper bolts - one has to gently twist the calliper with slightly loose bolts until it doesn't squeak and then carefully tighten the bolts without changing the calliper's orientation
You mean hold the brake on gently, turn the wheel and twist the caliper at the same time until no-squeal?
Do you hold the brake on with an elastic band?
i'm a complete newbie - but here goes: I squeeze the brake hard - on my cheap bike that results in a newly attached calliper scratching/touching on a specific part of the disk - then with the bolts slightly loose I carefully twist the calliper until the noise goes away and carefully tighten the bolts - on the whole it works, but I think I might try your rubber band suggestion - you mean partially squeezed break - but how do you know when it is orientated right then? - on some very steep hills here I find the brake screeches after hard braking.
Assuming that there is no disc contamination, switching from sintered pads to organic/resin brake pads will stop the noise.
Bigclick, I'm already on my third set of pads on my bike, so I'm getting roughly 150 miles from a set. The standard Shimano pads with fins are stupid money, and I have now figured that for real world riding, the pads with fins are just complete marketing bull and a waste of money. I've switched to Clarks VX pads at half the cost of the OE pads. And guess what, no loss of brake performance.
Bigclick, I'm already on my third set of pads on my bike, so I'm getting roughly 150 miles from a set. The standard Shimano pads with fins are stupid money, and I have now figured that for real world riding, the pads with fins are just complete marketing bull and a waste of money. I've switched to Clarks VX pads at half the cost of the OE pads. And guess what, no loss of brake performance.
You amaze me Eddie only getting 150 miles per set of pads. I know you go mud plugging but I got more than that with rim brakes. I am still on the original set of pads on the Delite at over 5000 miles and I get some heavy braking in because of the terrain around these parts.
Sadly I think that the issue is that a high percentage of the area is made up of a very very fine sand. After it dries on the bike from a wet ride, it is like brushing away flour. It's really hard on brakes, chains and bearings. It just destroys everything. Chains don't last much longer than the brake pads. No one ever believes that you can easily wreck a chain in 100-150miles if the riding conditions aren't good. In the summer the sand just becomes a powdered dust, and in the winter it becomes fine rubbing compound/grit. Even today after washing the bike, I could feel it in the console control switches, and the battery lock. Bosch should design a rubber blank to cover the lock. It's a constant battle trying to keep it working properly. 
It's conditions here are also very acidic, and it corrodes things very quickly, which is why I clean the bike after every ride. Last night I didn't and this was the result that greeted me this morning. You can also see just how fine that the sand is from this photo. It's the white dry stuff.
I would normally thoroughly wash the chain off, blow it dry using an air line, then oil it with duck oil, blow it out once again with the air line, then use a wet lube on it at this time of year. Hard to believe that this is the result of just a 20 mile ride, and a bike left un clean for 15hrs.
You might also just be able to see how scratched and scored that the discs are as well from the abrasive action.
It's conditions here are also very acidic, and it corrodes things very quickly, which is why I clean the bike after every ride. Last night I didn't and this was the result that greeted me this morning. You can also see just how fine that the sand is from this photo. It's the white dry stuff.
I would normally thoroughly wash the chain off, blow it dry using an air line, then oil it with duck oil, blow it out once again with the air line, then use a wet lube on it at this time of year. Hard to believe that this is the result of just a 20 mile ride, and a bike left un clean for 15hrs.
You might also just be able to see how scratched and scored that the discs are as well from the abrasive action.
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I can believe it. I had a job for 6 months which entailed commuting on my motorcycle though rural roads bordered by sand quarries. The resultant grinding paste ate even O'ring chains, along with salty winter roads it destroyed all the ally on the Gpz.
I have a quarry near to me but I have no where near the problems you have. If I did I doubt I would be riding, you have more stamina than just using your legs.
Regarding chain wear, I still believe lube allows the grinding paste to cling and do its job, next time you change it, just try and not add lube, just rub it down with a clean rag. It can't make matters worse.
Regarding chain wear, I still believe lube allows the grinding paste to cling and do its job, next time you change it, just try and not add lube, just rub it down with a clean rag. It can't make matters worse.
Chain lube is a bit a tough one, and they certainly vary from make to make. The wet lube that causes me the least issue in respect of build up of crap, seems to be the Muc Off one. The dry and ceramic lube are also very good.
The worse thing that I did was to try acf50. Now that really wasn't the best of ideas. As a rust preventative, it's superb, but as a chain lube, it will be your worse nightmare. I returned with a really horrid thick grey grinding paste of a mess.
Still, you have to try these things. I should have mentioned that I do try to remember to wipe the excess lube off with a rag, but as I tend to do just prior to ride, it's easy to forget.
Its a shame that someone hasn't yet manufactured a dry graphite one yet. Graphite powder works very well on locks to make operation silky smooth.
The worse thing that I did was to try acf50. Now that really wasn't the best of ideas. As a rust preventative, it's superb, but as a chain lube, it will be your worse nightmare. I returned with a really horrid thick grey grinding paste of a mess.
Still, you have to try these things. I should have mentioned that I do try to remember to wipe the excess lube off with a rag, but as I tend to do just prior to ride, it's easy to forget.
Its a shame that someone hasn't yet manufactured a dry graphite one yet. Graphite powder works very well on locks to make operation silky smooth.
Woo...The condition sounds quite extreme to me just for one night.Sadly I think that the issue is that a high percentage of the area is made up of a very very fine sand. After it dries on the bike from a wet ride, it is like brushing away flour. It's really hard on brakes, chains and bearings. It just destroys everything. Chains don't last much longer than the brake pads. No one ever believes that you can easily wreck a chain in 100-150miles if the riding conditions aren't good. In the summer the sand just becomes a powdered dust, and in the winter it becomes fine rubbing compound/grit. Even today after washing the bike, I could feel it in the console control switches, and the battery lock. Bosch should design a rubber blank to cover the lock. It's a constant battle trying to keep it working properly.
It's conditions here are also very acidic, and it corrodes things very quickly, which is why I clean the bike after every ride. Last night I didn't and this was the result that greeted me this morning. You can also see just how fine that the sand is from this photo. It's the white dry stuff.
I would normally thoroughly wash the chain off, blow it dry using an air line, then oil it with duck oil, blow it out once again with the air line, then use a wet lube on it at this time of year. Hard to believe that this is the result of just a 20 mile ride, and a bike left un clean for 15hrs.
You might also just be able to see how scratched and scored that the discs are as well from the abrasive action.
However, does it not add your favourite colours (orange and black) to your bike
Pat
Sadly I think that the issue is that a high percentage of the area is made up of a very very fine sand. After it dries on the bike from a wet ride, it is like brushing away flour. It's really hard on brakes, chains and bearings. It just destroys everything. Chains don't last much longer than the brake pads. No one ever believes that you can easily wreck a chain in 100-150miles if the riding conditions aren't good. In the summer the sand just becomes a powdered dust, and in the winter it becomes fine rubbing compound/grit. Even today after washing the bike, I could feel it in the console control switches, and the battery lock. Bosch should design a rubber blank to cover the lock. It's a constant battle trying to keep it working properly.
It's conditions here are also very acidic, and it corrodes things very quickly, which is why I clean the bike after every ride. Last night I didn't and this was the result that greeted me this morning. You can also see just how fine that the sand is from this photo. It's the white dry stuff.
I would normally thoroughly wash the chain off, blow it dry using an air line, then oil it with duck oil, blow it out once again with the air line, then use a wet lube on it at this time of year. Hard to believe that this is the result of just a 20 mile ride, and a bike left un clean for 15hrs.
You might also just be able to see how scratched and scored that the discs are as well from the abrasive action.
I agree with the comment about the Bosch lock. It is a total waste of time. Mine has never worked properly - it is a pain to get a key in. I would like to remove it and just leave a simple latch. Bosch don't understand, or care about, bikes - the sooner they get serious competition the better. I am looking forward to the days when we can replaced our worn out Bosch kit with generic gear and can at least replace our own motors and controllers offf the shelf.
I have the same problem with sand here. I destroyed a complete XT transmission on my previous bike (non-e) in less than a year of average use.
I have the same problem with sand here. I destroyed a complete XT transmission on my previous bike (non-e) in less than a year of average use.
I haven't yet tried it, but I have been told that dry ceramic chain lube works very well on the locks. I really ought to give it a try, as every single use of the lock is a nightmare.