Bosch motor system life expectancy

[Deno]

How many drive chains have you needed to replace in that time?

I fully replace the chain, front cog and cassette every 2500-3000km depending how snotty the weather has been in that period and how bad I have been at cleaning the chain. In my experience the chain and cassette wear together so they have to be changed as a unit. The front cog is cheap anyway for the CX so I change that aswell. The whole hog costs ~50euro from Bike-discount, although the P&P is expensive so I tend to bulk buy parts, typically buying two complete drivetrains at a time.

I haven't seen more longevity out of ebike rated chains to be honest as I suspect its the cassette that's giving up the ghost earlier. I think the torque of the CX motor creates more strain on the components, especially as I have de-restricted it. You do learn to ease off during gear changes quite quickly - this helps reduce wear.

 

[Deno]

+2 for Marathon +. only 1 puncture and I've 13k on mine. Need to be run at sensible pressures (35psi) for decent grip however otherwise you'll be taking a tumble, like I did.

Do you have to grease an active line plus motor? Suspect its a good idea.

 

[Nev]

(20mph Average for the 10 mile road journey). QUOTE]
That's an excellent average speed unless you have de-restricted your bike.

 

[Andy McNish]

+2 for Marathon +. only 1 puncture and I've 13k on mine. Need to be run at sensible pressures (35psi) for decent grip however otherwise you'll be taking a tumble, like I did.

Do you have to grease an active line plus motor? Suspect its a good idea.

I run the 47mm touring tread version for extra grip, at 55+ psi.

 

[Deno]

I run the 47mm touring tread version for extra grip, at 55+ psi.

Apologies, I use marathon+ MTB's, 29 x 2.25".

 

[vfr400]

+2 for Marathon +. only 1 puncture and I've 13k on mine. Need to be run at sensible pressures (35psi) for decent grip however otherwise you'll be taking a tumble, like I did.

Do you have to grease an active line plus motor? Suspect its a good idea.

Good question. the Active line seems to be more reliable because it's a simpler bearing and seal arrangement, but if it were my bike, I'd slop on some grease just to be sure. You don't need to do that in the Summer. It's a countermeasure against Winter salt.

 

[Andy McNish]

Good question. the Active line seems to be more reliable because it's a simpler bearing and seal arrangement, but if it were my bike, I'd slop on some grease just to be sure. You don't need to do that in the Summer. It's a countermeasure against Winter salt.

Any particular grease you'd recommend?

 

[soundwave]

https://www.performancelinebearings.com/product/bosch-silicone-grease/

 

[vfr400]

Any silicone grease should be OK. You don't have to use that Bosch stuff. The idea is only to put up a barrier to the salt.

 

[Bearing Man]

Any silicone grease should be OK. You don't have to use that Bosch stuff. The idea is only to put up a barrier to the salt.

Firstly, thanks for all the shout-outs for Performance Line Bearings, really do appreciate it. And Kingsknight, please don't worry. These motors are good for 20,000+ miles if looked after. If it does fail, we can repair it within a day so down time should not be a concern. Most repairs equate to less than a chain and sprocket set, so again, just enjoy your bike
As for grease, the silicone grease was what Bosch were using, but it tended to pick-up grit and wind it past the bearing seal cover, also it would only last about 3 months, so very regular maintenance was required. The new green grease skins over so dirt is not carried past the seal cover, it also sticks like poo to a blanket and doesn't run away from the bearing.
Pack the grease around the right hand crankshaft bearing and main motor bearing, also smear it over the left-hand crankshaft bearing and you'll be good for months.
Salt water won't do any more damage than rain water as far as bearings are concerned. Water of any type entering a bearing creates rust and it is this that will destroy the bearing.
Don't be afraid of water! These motors are quite happy in the rain/puddles etc. What they don't like is deep rivers, hose pipes, pressure washers or being left on their side in the rain or while washing.
Hope this makes you feel a little better.

 

[vfr400]

Salt water won't do any more damage than rain water as far as bearings are concerned. Water of any type entering a bearing creates rust and it is this that will destroy the bearing.
Don't be afraid of water! These motors are quite happy in the rain/puddles etc. What they don't like is deep rivers, hose pipes, pressure washers or being left on their side in the rain or while washing.
Hope this makes you feel a little better.

Saltwater is indeed much more corrosive than freshwater. That's why they use a salt spray test to test for corrosion resistance in the auto industry. A 24 hour salt spray test is deemed equivalent to 10 years of corrosion in normal use.

It's because salt water is much more conductive than fresh water, so the ions can move more freely to react with and corrode the metal.

 

[Bearing Man]

Saltwater is indeed much more corrosive than freshwater. That's why they use a salt spray test to test for corrosion resistance in the auto industry. A 24 hour salt spray test is deemed equivalent to 10 years of corrosion in normal use.

It's because salt water is much more conductive than fresh water, so the ions can move more freely to react with and corrode the metal.

I don't dispute this in any way. My comment was that regardless of whether it's fresh or salt water, if it gets inside the bearing it will destroy it. So you shouldn't be scared of riding in the winter.

 

[Fat Rat]

wanna race

Yeah
80 mile endurance