Bosch Engine Repairs After Warranty??

[STEVEMANFA]

Is it the same story with the Yamaha motor?

 

[soundwave]

i have never seen any parts for them like bosch and imo brose is also the same no parts for the public to buy.

tho you can buy both motors without sending in the old motor first.

 

[Trevormonty]

I've learned the hard way that I am expecting a lot from my bike, so if a trader thinks their bikes would struggle, then I would prefer them to say that I would be better saving up and spending on a 4k + R&M bike or similar. That's why I've tried to give as much detail on how I use it.

In my eyes, if they said don't buy one of ours, I wouldn't see that as detrimental to them, if anything, the opposite. It might save me money long term, and save them in constant repairs too.

Given that high mileage a IGH and belt drive would be ideal, next best thing is IGH and singlespeed chain. There are quite few bikes around 2k with IGH and chain.

 

[STEVEMANFA]

Well that is a bonus, because you can keep the old motor for parts.

 

[IR772]

Is it the same story with the Yamaha motor?

No one knows, because there has never been a faulty one.

 

[Woosh]

Given that high mileage a IGH and belt drive would be ideal, next best thing is IGH and singlespeed chain. There are quite few bikes around 2k with IGH and chain.

he's got a hub motor. IGH does not give him much of an advantage in his case because he does not have to change gear in the first place. His main problem with the transmission is chain suck.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

---- chain suck.

Whats that?

 

[Woosh]

Chainsuck happens when the force provided by the rear derailleur spring is less than the force causing the chain to stick to your chainring.

Your chain got sucked into the ring or one of the cogs at the rear, causing the chain to jump and the transmission to jam. If your transmission is set up correctly, the chain never comes off and never sticks. On a bike with a hub motor, you don't need to change gear, there are far fewer problems with transmission in the first place.

Sorry to veer off topic.

 

[Artstu]

he's got a hub motor. IGH does not give him much of an advantage in his case because he does not have to change gear in the first place. His main problem with the transmission is chain suck.

another very very bold claim, guess that's also for pan flat windless conditions

 

[Woosh]

another very very bold claim, guess that's also for pan flat windless conditions

What is a little wind when Andy Bluenoes has a 1000W motor at his rear wheel.

 

[Artstu]

What is a little wind when Andy Bluenoes has a 1000W motor at his rear wheel.

ah, that adds a slightly different perspective I think, I'll have to take your word for that one.

 

[Woosh]

that's why I apologized earlier for veering off topic. Andy Bluenoes is after a bike reliable enough for him to ride 8,000 miles a year. Would you suggest a CD bike?
I may be tempted to make one with a specially built DD motor.

 

[Artstu]

that's why I apologized earlier for veering off topic. Andy Bluenoes is after a bike reliable enough for him to ride 8,000 miles a year. Would you suggest a CD bike?
I may be tempted to make one with a specially built DD motor.

No, I've no experience with DD hub motors, but imagine a single speed (for the gears) one will be the most reliable if his terrain suits it. I'd have two bikes for that mileage so one is always ready to go when the other requires maintenance.

 

[Gubbins]

A guy at lbs told me bosch were looking at making it a lot cheaper for out of warranty engine swaps..

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've learned the hard way that I am expecting a lot from my bike, so if a trader thinks their bikes would struggle, then I would prefer them to say that I would be better saving up and spending on a 4k + R&M bike or similar. That's why I've tried to give as much detail on how I use it.

The problems you had with your Cyclotricity were pretty minor. The main problem was the time off the road. When you buy a 4k bike like the R&M, it'll be off the road much more frequently as a matter of routine for maintenance, and even Croxton's had to go back to the dealer to have things fixed, which were not routine service procedures. On top of that, you get massive depreciation, so it's not going to work out any cheaper. The cost will be even higher if you have it dealer serviced. There's absolutely no way you can justify a bike like that on the basis of cost. Buy one because you have money to spare, because you want to get one over your neighbour or because you just like to have fine things, but not because you think you'll save some money with it.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

On that basis, it will make sense to keep hold of the cyclotricity as backup when I do get a new one

 

[Woosh]

On that basis, it will make sense to keep hold of the cyclotricity as backup when I do get a new one

Yes, I agree with that. If you have a Bosch dealer nearby, you could spend £2k on something like a Cube Bosch hybrid with 500WH battery that will be your main, comfortable work horse and pile the miles in while you still enjoy the guarantee.
Mind you, if you go by the number of broken chains recently seen recently on CD bikes, it will make you wonder if the CD bikes are the right choice for commuting. At least you don't have to push if you ride a Chinese bike with throttle.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Mind you, if you go by the number of broken chains recently seen recently on CD bikes, it will make you wonder if the CD bikes are the right choice for commuting. At least you don't have to push if you ride a Chinese bike with throttle.

I've always said the same. keep your CD bikes for fun riding. A hub-motor will always be better for commuting. I shiver at the thought if getting half-way to work and my chain snapped on my deluxe electric MTB. I guess the only option would be to call for a taxi that can carry a bike. If you have a chain-breaker tool with you, there's a fair chance that you could repair it, but there's often consequential damage when the chain snaps.

 

[Gubbins]

I have only ever had one broken chain and I found it by accident when cleaning it. So now I carry a chain tool and a power link but after about 7000 miles I haven't need to use it, But, I do try to look after my chain and replace it at the first signs of wear.. Probably earlier than is really necessary, but I think its a false economy to try to make a chain last a long time

 

[RobF]

Yet more fiction about crank drives being more prone to break chains.

If you look at that other thread, the chain broke under next to no load - walking pace on the flat.

Of the very few push bike chain breaks which I've been personally told about, most 'just happen' when the rider is cycling not especially hard.

A batch of dodgy chains, or more likely steel, is a good shout.