Bnineteeneam 48v 250w 26” front wheel conversion kit

Mappier

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2020
43
7
The conversion kit was bought on Amazon for £105 and delivered from China within the estimated delivery time by Fedex. Be aware, a month after delivery I received an invoice by post from Fedex demanding for £16.44 to cover import taxes. I wasn't expecting this bill and at first thought it was a scam.
I’ve since seen this kit on Amazon.co.uk for £311.99!

IMG_20201026_112724.jpg

I consider myself to be quite 'handy' and found fitting the kit relatively easy albeit without any assembly instructions but with help found on Youtube.
The controller fits nicely in a pocket in my pannier.

I started with the front wheel. My donor bike is a fifteen year old Specialised Expedition hybrid. Aluminium frame and steel forks. Quite chunky, built for trail or road riding but without suspension.

IMG_20201026_112756.jpg

My 26" x 1.75" Specialised hybrid tyre fitted ok. I needed to grind the drop-outs to get the new wheel axle to fit snugly. I didn't fit torque arms because the supplied washers had stubs which fit in the drop-outs and should prevent the axle from twisting. I had to fit a washer on one side to give clearance between the fork and the hub motor. The axle is 1/2", I opened up an M10 spring washer which was the right thickness to achieve 1/16" clearance.

The supplied component cables are fitted with connectors that match those from those on the controller. Even without instructions it is impossible to mis-match the connectors. My battery had bullet connectors fitted to the discharge cables which I cut off and replaced with the XT60 connector that came with the conversion kit; you will need a soldering iron for this.

The first battery I tried was 36v which didn't give a great performance. The motor and controller are rated for 48v so I returned the 36v battery and bought a 48v one which was £30 more expensive but well worth it. The holes in the battery mounting plate did not line up with the bottle rack tappings in the frame so I drilled two fresh holes in the cast aluminium part of the mounting plate. I stuffed a piece of foam between the mounting plate and frame to reduce vibration.

IMG_20201026_112831.jpg

Prior to fitting the PAS magnets and sensor I took the opportunity to replace the bottom bracket bearing cassette which was well past its sell by date.

IMG_20201026_105722.jpg

My donor bike is a 24 speed derailleur and for normal riding I am able stay in high gears most of the time on assist level 1 (there are five assist levels). When I push off I apply a little pressure on the thumb throttle and away I go, setting off in too high a gear is no longer a problem. In England we are limited to 25km/h on our roads however at assist level 5 I can get up to 27km/h on the flat.

IMG_20201026_105745.jpgIMG_20201026_112656.jpgIMG_20201026_105739.jpg

The controller, throttle and display that are included in the kit are about the most basic available. The display does not have an odometer or voltmeter but just four leds to indicate the amount of charge remaining in the battery and a speedo. When fully charged battery measured 54v with four leds showing. At first I tried to keep a tally of the miles travelled but soon lost track. When the display was down to one led lit voltage remaining in the battery measured 46v. I rode around for a few miles after that and then all four leds suddenly came on. I rode on for two miles and electric motor switched off. As said my bike has 24 gears and I was able to ride home without too much effort. Voltage left in the battery measured 42v. I think I’m getting about 30 miles from a full charge.

I'm 74 years old and haven't used the bike much for years mainly because I struggled with my knees but this ebike it has given me a new lease of life.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
Nice write up, thanks.

You have a KT controller, which is pretty good. It can be upgraded to one that gives you access to the settings that adjust speed and power if you ever want to do anything like that.

Did you put the controller in your panier? I prefer to put them in a tool bag that leaves your rack and paniers free of encumbrance.

38981
 
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Mappier

Pedelecer
Jun 23, 2020
43
7
I've had the pannier for years which has space on the inside away from the main storage section. As you say there is scope here to upgrade a number of components in the future.
 
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izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Nice write up, thanks.

You have a KT controller, which is pretty good. It can be upgraded to one that gives you access to the settings that adjust speed and power if you ever want to do anything like that.

Did you put the controller in your panier? I prefer to put them in a tool bag that leaves your rack and paniers free of encumbrance.

View attachment 38981
I am new to this forum and not sure how to do things but I am just trying to reply to vfr400 about a previous thread and hope I can gain some info.
Thanks
I have just read your reply about a Bnineteenteam 48v 250w 26” front wheel conversion kit as described by mappier.
I hope you don't mind me writing to you but you seem to know about these systems and It is a pain trying to talk to the supplier about it due to them being in China.
I bought a 24 volt 250w 26'' front wheel conversion kit from amazon.
The bike I converted was an Izip with Lead acid battery and I thought I could use this battery to power the conversion.
The conversion works but the battery is soon struggling even though it measures 24 volts. Am I right in assuming that a 24 volt lithium gives out 27 volts and maintains this right up until it is flat ?
The LED display only lights up the first one and that starts flashing after 3 or 4 miles. The battery does measure 26 volts when it comes off charge but do lead acid batteries lose voltage very quickly when under load ?
You mention the K type controller and the box it was sent in has 24/36/48v written on it, does this mean that the controller will suit any voltage ?
Can this controller be changed for an enhanced one then ?
I would just like to know if you think I need to use a lithium equivalent and would it deliver a higher output ?
izzywhit
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
I am new to this forum and not sure how to do things but I am just trying to reply to vfr400 about a previous thread and hope I can gain some info.
Thanks
I have just read your reply about a Bnineteenteam 48v 250w 26” front wheel conversion kit as described by mappier.
I hope you don't mind me writing to you but you seem to know about these systems and It is a pain trying to talk to the supplier about it due to them being in China.
I bought a 24 volt 250w 26'' front wheel conversion kit from amazon.
The bike I converted was an Izip with Lead acid battery and I thought I could use this battery to power the conversion.
The conversion works but the battery is soon struggling even though it measures 24 volts. Am I right in assuming that a 24 volt lithium gives out 27 volts and maintains this right up until it is flat ?
The LED display only lights up the first one and that starts flashing after 3 or 4 miles. The battery does measure 26 volts when it comes off charge but do lead acid batteries lose voltage very quickly when under load ?
You mention the K type controller and the box it was sent in has 24/36/48v written on it, does this mean that the controller will suit any voltage ?
Can this controller be changed for an enhanced one then ?
I would just like to know if you think I need to use a lithium equivalent and would it deliver a higher output ?
izzywhit
A 24v lithium battery should be 29.4v hot off the charger. What voltage is written on the charger?
 

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
A 24v lithium battery should be 29.4v hot off the charger. What voltage is written on the charger?
I haven't got the lithium charger or battery yet.
I am just trying to find out why my 24 volt wheel does not perform for long using the 24 volt lead acid battery which can only get to 25.6 max.
Does the lithium stay at 29.4 under load ?
Thanks for your reply
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
Your lead batteries are shagged, which is what always happens to them when they're not used for a while. Lithium is more versatile, but can't provide as much current, so you get a bit of sag under load. A 24v lithium battery charges to 29.4v and goes down to 21.7v when empty, so the average is around 24v. Those voltages are more or less the same for lead batteries, though the shapes of the discharge curve are a bit different.
 

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Your lead batteries are shagged, which is what always happens to them when they're not used for a while. Lithium is more versatile, but can't provide as much current, so you get a bit of sag under load. A 24v lithium battery charges to 29.4v and goes down to 21.7v when empty, so the average is around 24v. Those voltages are more or less the same for lead batteries, though the shapes of the discharge curve are a bit different.
Here's what it says on controller label :-
the controller is a KT 24ZWSRD - ffF02
Rated Volts 24dc
Rated current 10 amps
Low Voltage protection DC20+ - 0.5v
Max Current 20 + - 1A
1-4.2v
Brake Input low Level
The display is a KT-LED900S
The wheel is 24v 250W
Does this help you ?
 

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izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Here's what it says on controller label :-
the controller is a KT 24ZWSRD - ffF02
Rated Volts 24dc
Rated current 10 amps
Low Voltage protection DC20+ - 0.5v
Max Current 20 + - 1A
1-4.2v
Brake Input low Level
The display is a KT-LED900S
The wheel is 24v 250W
Does this help you ?
Sorry this has just come to mind, you mention putting 36v into it will that not harm the 24v wheel ?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
8,533
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West Sx RH
Your controller is 24v it will blow if you use a 36v battery, the motor doesn't care about voltage too much. Though as you have a small motor keep the current down a bit by using a 15a max rated controller, voltage will increase the torque power out put so proportionately one can reduce the current supplied.

To use a 36v battery you will need to buy a dual KT 24/36v controller or a dual KT 36/48v controller, the latter will be larger so for your needs the former may be best if space is limited to fit it.
If you are good at diy, you can unscrew the controller end screws and lift off the lid/top to check the main capacitors voltage rating, you might be lucky and it might handle 36v if the rating is 50v but at 20a it is a bit much for a small front motor.

If you were to go to 36v show us the controller wiring spread out nicely so you can match one up without to much wiring issues, also by going to 36v one can use slightly less current, instead of a 20a max one you can drop down to 15 max which will be kinder to the motor.

Your current set is 20a x 24v = 480w output from the controller and approx. 380w at the wheel.
A 36v 15a controller is 15a x 36v = 540w output or 432w at the wheel.
 
Last edited:

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Your controller is 24v it will blow if you use a 36v battery, the motor doesn't care about voltage. Voltage will increase the torque power out put.
To use a 36v battery you will need to but a dual KT 24/36v controller or a dual KT 36/48v controller, the latter will be larger so foe your needs the former may be best if space is limited to fit it.
Any idea where I would get one of those controllers from ?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
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West Sx RH

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Several options ebay or various China sellers.
Controllers & LCD Displays – TorqueTech
As I have just bought this wheel I am waiting for the seller to come back with a recommended battery trouble is it's China and it is a struggle getting info isn't it. I don't want to spend more money on a controller as it's just cost me nearly £200 for the kit and a battery will be just as much surely a 24volt motor and controller just requires a 24 battery.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
Firstly, if you stay at 24v, a lithium battery would need to be able to supply at least 20A continuous. 25A would be a lot better. many of the cheaper lithium batteries are only rated at 15A, so be very careful to check the listing.

Like Neal says, you'd need a new controller to go up to 36v. I think your your motor will be OK up to about 20A, which would give 50% more power. 18A is probably ideal, though I've never seen an 18A controller, which would mean a 20A or 22A one with the current reduced in the settings. Ther are some 17A versions floating around, which would probably be my choice because it's small. How much room is there on your bike for a contropller? what size is your present one in mmm?

if you're going to buy a new controller, you existing control panel will work, but it's much easier to do the settings with an LCD, especially if you want to adjust the current.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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KT lcd 3 is a big large for a folding bike so a more discreet one is the lcd 4, it has all the options but in a tiny compact thumb size display.
 

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Firstly, if you stay at 24v, a lithium battery would need to be able to supply at least 20A continuous. 25A would be a lot better. many of the cheaper lithium batteries are only rated at 15A, so be very careful to check the listing.

Like Neal says, you'd need a new controller to go up to 36v. I think your your motor will be OK up to about 20A, which would give 50% more power. 18A is probably ideal, though I've never seen an 18A controller, which would mean a 20A or 22A one with the current reduced in the settings. Ther are some 17A versions floating around, which would probably be my choice because it's small. How much room is there on your bike for a contropller? what size is your present one in mmm?

if you're going to buy a new controller, you existing control panel will work, but it's much easier to do the settings with an LCD, especially if you want to adjust the current.
Thanks for your help have found a 20A continuous battery will keep you informed.
Thanks again
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,917
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For 20a continuous battery find out the cells used and how many in parallel, depending on the cells one might be ok with a 20a controller other wise one should be looking at 15 or 17a, though with KT one can reduce the current draw.
 

izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
For 20a continuous battery find out the cells used and how many in parallel, depending on the cells one might be ok with a 20a controller other wise one should be looking at 15 or 17a, though with KT one can reduce the current draw.
I got an appropriate battery it's a Yose 24v 10ah but the firm ysbattery UK can't supply the case which I need to connect to. Any ideas on getting a 4 pin plug that fits these things ?
Regards
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,993
Basildon
I got an appropriate battery it's a Yose 24v 10ah but the firm ysbattery UK can't supply the case which I need to connect to. Any ideas on getting a 4 pin plug that fits these things ?
Regards
Can that battery supply 20A continuous? Cheapo Yose ones normally can't.
 
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izzywhit

Finding my (electric) wheels
Mar 13, 2021
12
0
Burnley,Lancs
Can that battery supply 20A continuous? Cheapo Yose ones normally can't.
The leaflet screen shotted on eBay says it will supply 20 a but even looking on the Yose proper site says you can't buy a bike fitting kit cause it is fitted as OEM on certain brands I just need 4 pin plug that fits like the one for silver fish but they want a lot for 4 pins and a bit of wire. I'll probably just file a but of brass down to push in the slots it's not lockable though without the carrier.