BMS kit

[Mattjenkins1990]

Just placed an order with BMS and have a few questions surrounding what i am to expect

Will shipping really be 4-6 weeks even though I selected 2-5 day UPS service ?
On a £450 order what am I likely to be paying if HMRC get hold of it ?
Does the Q128H Rear motor come with an axle or will i need to take it out of the current rear wheel ?
I have purchased the SHIMANO 14-28 Teeth Freewheel will I just be able to screw this onto the motor and reconfigure the gears i believe my rear set-up is currently a cassette ?
I went with a 48V11.6Ah Bottle-09 Panasonic Battery Pack, Does this have BMS built in to stop it over/undercharging ?
Are the brakes supplied a good idea to fit, surely the motor would cut off when the throttle is not activated. The reason i ask is at present my brakes have the shifters built into them so I would need to purchase separate shifters if this is the case, does anyone have any experience of this ?

All help is always appreciated and my thanks in advance.

Matt

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If only you had posted your shopping list before ordering. Hopefully, it's not too late to change it.

You will need additionally, their spoke key, a torque arm (12 x 10 slot) and a wheel speed sensor.

Which controller did you get? If you got the 20A sinewave one in the battery, the harness has 2-wire connectors for brake switches, which makes it tricky. It comes with brake levers, so you only need to get some changers, which are pretty cheap if you get used ones from Ebay. If you have a separate controller, you can use their hidden wire brake sensors with your existing brakes. You need at least one brake switch for safety. The motor stops immediately when you let go of the throttle, but presumably, you want to fit the nice pedal sensor system, for which the brake sensor is necessary.

The freewheel you ordered has 14 teeth on the top gear. Depending on your chainwheel, which I'm guessing is 42 or 44 teeth, your gearing will be too low to keep up with the motor. You need a DNP 11T freewheel to get comfortable pedalling, or you need to increase your chainwheel to at least 48T. Everything considered, I'd chuck your changers and get a separate 7-speed one for the back with the DNP freewheel. Your rear derailleur should be OK with it. I have DNP freewheels. Send me a message if you want one.

That battery is plug and play with a BMS fitted.

Your order will take about 2 weeks to prepare and 3 days to ship. Don't be surprised if they ask you to pay an extra $20 shiping at the time of despatch. Their shipping cost model doesn't take account of the difficulty in shipping batteries. I had a long discussion with them about it a year ago, and then again last month. They promised that they would let people know immediately after they placed an order, so we'll see what happens. You will have to pay duty of about £30.

If you have the 20A controller, there's a hack you have to do to fit the speed sensor. It requires a hole to be drilled and three wires to be soldered.

 

[Mattjenkins1990]

Hi,

Thanks again for the reply informative and comprehensive as ever

I purchased

A Pair of EBike Torque Arm - Size : M12 - Are these the correct size ?
I asked for a spoke key to be included hopefully they will include one as i could not find it on the website

I ordered the 20A controller as i figured having it integrated would be nice and save me some work mounting it

Does a speed sensor not fit natively to the controller without having to Drill and solder ?
Is this something I can get from Ebay or in the UK to save contacting BMS and amending the order ?

It has a PAS included in the Kit I thought that would be sufficient without requiring an additional speed sensor ?

The chainwheel is a standard Carrera with 3 cogs so i think you are correct in your assumption that it is 42-44 teeth. How much are the DNP freewheels ?

Thanks again

Matt

 

[Deleted member 4366]

M12 is correct.

The controller uses a speed sensor that's in the motor. I don't know if the Q128 doesn't have one or if the motor extension lead that they provide doesn't t have the ninth wire. Whatever it is, the speed won't display unless you do something. If you're lucky, it will pick up the speed signal from the motor hall sensors, but the display will show 0 mph whenever you're freewheeling. My first one worked like that, but not the last one.

The PAS will work perfectly without the wheel speed sensor, which is only necessary to display the speed correctly, and, if your controller doesn't get a speed signal at all, it will keep going to sleep.

The best would be to send BMSB an email asking them to add the wheel-speed sensor to your order. Alternatively, you can use the sensor off any cycle computer, but you still have to hack the controller to wire it.

 

[Mattjenkins1990]

Ah so without the speed sensor my controller will keep going to sleep. That sounds irritating, I will get in contact with BMS and see if they will swap the sprocket for a spoke key and speed sensor.

In terms of this hack, how difficult is it (for a novice as you can probably tell) Will it involve disassembly of the battery ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You have to take 4 screws out of the controller compartment and drill a hole in the aluminium base to run the wire through. Then, you cut the white wire and join your white sensor wire to the end that's attached to the pcb. Finally, you have to join your red and black wires to the pcb. You can either solser them directly to the pcb or you can cut existing red and black wires and join the three ends together for each. It's a lot easier to do than to write.

 

[Mattjenkins1990]

Many thanks for the reply i will let you know how i get on with it, no doubt a few more threads left in me yet

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Here's a photo. The speed sensor wire comes in on the right side. I put a cable tie round it to stop it pulling on the thin wires. The red goes to the bottom right of the pcb. The black goes to the top right and the white a bit lower down. You can see the yellow heatshrink covering the join. Be careful because there's two white wires. The one you want comes out of the motor bundle. The other is in the bundle that goes to the LCD.I later put some silicone sealant around the cable entry to stop water coming in.

 

[morphix]

Does anyone have any wiring schematic for the following controller and LCD combination:

Controller: KT24ZWS-IID16
LCD: KT-LCD1 V2.5

The kit is pretty standard stuff comprising: a 3-wire thumb throttle, a 3-wire PAS sensor, an in-line 3-wire brake motor cut-out sensor (with LED that illuminates when brake is pulled), and an LCD console with 5-pin connector.

I've lost the original wire harness and I'm trying to create a new one, but have one thing has got me stumped..

The controller doesn't have all the usual bunch of output wires for all the sensors. Instead, it has only 4 cables and connectors out:

1. 3-pin yellow connector
2. 5-pin black connector (but the flex is actually 8-core, 3 wires seem to be not used).
3. 9-pin black connector to motor
4. 2-pin IEC DC power input

I definitely remember the wire harness having 3 connectors at the front end (3-pin yellow thumb throttle, 3-pin yellow brake sensor, and a green 5-pin LCD connector).

There would have also presumably been a 3-pin yellow connector for the PAS sensor (the common disc type that sits between the pedal crank). That sensor I think connected either to the other end of the wire harness which had a female 3-pin connector.

I'm trying to recreate a new wire harness. I've got the LCD part sorted which works.

The problem is figuring out how, and where, the throttle, brake sensor and PAS sensor connect to the controller.

There's only one 3-pin connector out from the controller. However and 3-wires appear to be unused in the 8-core flex to the LCD) so I'm thinking something else connected to the 8-core flex besides the LCD.

Is it likely the brake cut-out sensor connected directly to the controller, and the throttle+PAS somehow fed into the LCD console via the wire harness?

If anyone has any insight, ideas or even schematics, I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks,

Paul

Note: I've hacked off the main connector (it was a black screw-thread connector 8-way to the harness. This supports the idea that the 3 additional wires are used to connect to the throttle and/or brake sensor/PAS sensor. Only 5 of these wires in that connector go to the LCD and I have successfully identified which.

 

[morphix]

Another quick question...

I want to change the housing for the controller to something more water-proof with proper cable sealing. The aluminum housing seems to be acting as a heat-sink. Is it therefore not advisable to mount the circuit (without the aluminum housing) into a plastic case housing?

If that's likely to risk overheating, I will simply put the entire aluminum housing into a larger plastic housing.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Jeez! I just spent an hour mapping it all out for you, but I didn't realise it was you, Morphix.

After all that trying to get us blocked from talking about all the things we like to on the forum, I'm struggling. I need to think about it. It doesn't seem fair that you try and block us and then you ask for help.

Read post #161

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/new-name-for-forum.24040/page-9