Bit confused on bbs01 reprogramming

[minexplorer]

At last ive got my laptop back .Can finally sort out the dreadful programming, ive had to endure for months.

Basically my bbs 350w gave the full 18amps on max pas. After Eclipse gave me a replacement controller it was rubbish,a tortoise has more oomph .Only 8amps on max pas. According to the watt meter.

Ive just connected the programming cable and it says on PAS page,keep current 20% ! Pas 9 is set 100%. Before i try any changes, id appropriate someone clearing up some confusion .
20 % of 100% or 18amps is 3 -4amps.But its always around 8amp on max assist.I dont get it ?

I prefer 5 levels of assist .Id like approx 18amps ,15,12,10 and a limp home 6amp settings with 100% keep current .I dont like the sudden drop off of power , is this due to the 20 % setting? (its derestricted speed ,not the 15mph cut off)

Do u just have to approximate for using 5 Pas ,as seems u have to set 9 ? Thanks for any help.

 

[peter.c]

The first thing I noticed about the settings on a standard programed bbs01.

Rather than program for power the basic setup is for less warranty repairs and longer battery life
The biggest change I made was to up the keep current and test ride then tweak again I have ended up at 90%keep as I noticed a difference in battery usage

Have finally bitten the bullet and ordered a new battery from Jimmy at insat with ga cells. The eggrider2 is next purchase so adjustments can be made out on the road

 

[Fordulike]

If you have the display set to PAS assist for 5 levels, then on the 'Basic' tab in the software, boxes 1,3,5,7 and 9, relate to 1,2,3,4 and 5 on the display.

'Keep Current' will drop power to it's setting percentage, once the bike gets going, but it also means a percentage of the PAS level 'Current (%)' too.

For example: Controller max rating is set at 15 amps. PAS 1 'Current(%)' is set at 50% and 'Keep Current' is set to 20%.

15 amps at 50% is 7.5 amps on start up. Then 'Keep Current' drops this down to 1.5 amps, when the motor is spinning up to speed.

Setting the 'Keep Current' to 100% will allow the controller to maintain 7.5 amps when the motor requires it. Setting both to 100% will give the motor access to 15 amps when needed.

I personally set the controller to give 100% current on all PAS levels, but change the speed setting in each of 5 levels to match my gearing. It works like a 5 position throttle, but suits my style of riding.

 

[minexplorer]

If you have the display set to PAS assist for 5 levels, then on the 'Basic' tab in the software, boxes 1,3,5,7 and 9, relate to 1,2,3,4 and 5 on the display.

'Keep Current' will drop power to it's setting percentage, once the bike gets going, but it also means a percentage of the PAS level 'Current (%)' too.

For example: Controller max rating is set at 15 amps. PAS 1 'Current(%)' is set at 50% and 'Keep Current' is set to 20%.

15 amps at 50% is 7.5 amps on start up. Then 'Keep Current' drops this down to 1.5 amps, when the motor is spinning up to speed.

Setting the 'Keep Current' to 100% will allow the controller to maintain 7.5 amps when the motor requires it. Setting both to 100% will give the motor access to 15 amps when needed.

I personally set the controller to give 100% current on all PAS levels, but change the speed setting in each of 5 levels to match my gearing. It works like a 5 position throttle, but suits my style of riding.

Thanks guys . thats very clear detail Fordulike,unlike the guides .So i prob only have to change the keep current to 100% an maybe tweak the 1,3,5,7,9. Persentages of the max .Which for my 350w is 18amps.So for what i want, pas 1 wld be 33 % or 6amp ,for 2 thats 55 % or 10amp etc .Am i right?

Thats an interesting set up u use. So u get 15amps on all levels of pas,but only let the bike reach full speed on pas 9 ? If uve removed the 15mph speed restriction ,how does the controller know what speed to limit u to. If for example u had set Pas 5 speed to say 60% ?

 

[Fordulike]

Setting 'Keep Current' to 100% is always a good start. Then you can decide on whether you want to set different PAS levels for economy, through to performance, or better control of motor speed, but still have full amps available.

Thats an interesting set up u use. So u get 15amps on all levels of pas,but only let the bike reach full speed on pas 9 ? If uve removed the 15mph speed restriction ,how does the controller know what speed to limit u to. If for example u had set Pas 5 speed to say 60% ?

I've a BBS02, so 25 amps available on all 5 PAS levels, and as you say, my level 5 is 100% speed.

The controller doesn't limit the bike to a particular speed, only the motor, so you have to play about with the percentages, calculate and test ride to find the best settings for your style of riding and gearing. For example, I ride quite often on hilly, muddy tracks, so I have my PAS 1 set at 100% current and something like 20% speed (can't remember exactly). This means I can select PAS 1 and my lowest gear, then crawl along the terrain with bags of torque at the rear wheel.

 

[minexplorer]

Setting 'Keep Current' to 100% is always a good start. Then you can decide on whether you want to set different PAS levels for economy, through to performance, or better control of motor speed, but still have full amps available.


I've a BBS02, so 25 amps available on all 5 PAS levels, and as you say, my level 5 is 100% speed.

The controller doesn't limit the bike to a particular speed, only the motor, so you have to play about with the percentages, calculate and test ride to find the best settings for your style of riding and gearing. For example, I ride quite often on hilly, muddy tracks, so I have my PAS 1 set at 100% current and something like 20% speed (can't remember exactly). This means I can select PAS 1 and my lowest gear, then crawl along the terrain with bags of torque at the rear wheel.

Yes i see the benefit of your personal set up for the job u want the bike to do.Im more interested in torque than speed now ,after fitting a bbshd on a marin bobcat trail.The bbs01 on my beloved giant sedona wont get covered in cobwebs tho.Its now sporting an additional rack battery in parallel ,that gives me 30.4ah 11p.

I ve just had to make do til now with WOT most of the time .thanks to eclipse setting 20% keep current. Say i didnt like throttles,never fitted it and knew no better. Id never have seen the full power of the bike.Eclipse ignored me when i insisted the bike had lost its oomph in PAS mode.

 

[Fordulike]

Try programming PAS 9, 100% current and 100% speed, keep current 100%, start current 50% and slow start mode 5. Test the bike to see if you get the oomph you need, then work from there. Also make sure designated assist and speed limit are both on 'by displays command'

 

[minexplorer]

Try programming PAS 9, 100% current and 100% speed, keep current 100%, start current 50% and slow start mode 5. Test the bike to see if you get the oomph you need, then work from there. Also make sure designated assist and speed limit are both on 'by displays command'

Will do fordulike ,thanks for making the programming principles clear

 

[Ebyke]

It's a bit confusing at first but once you've been in there a few times and messed with it you will understand what the settings actually do. I might even try fordulike settings..these are mine at the moment but I'm in the process of building a 29er ..so my old settings for my 26" wheeled bike will be different I suspect

 

[minexplorer]

It's a bit confusing at first but once you've been in there a few times and messed with it you will understand what the settings actually do. I might even try fordulike settings..these are mine at the moment but I'm in the process of building a 29er ..so my old settings for my 26" wheeled bike will be different I suspect

Thanks ebyke ill compare with whats on it at the mo.Do u notice any drop in maintaining a speed reached with 75 % keep current as apposed to 100 % ? The controllers reduce current when on flat ground.As ive noticed with a watt meter. I assume the higher the keep current the less it can,an 100 % means it never does

 

[Ebyke]

Yes I do notice what I would call a cut off point..but it's a mater of getting used to the way the power is spalled up..I call it the sweet spot of power where the cadence is just right..so sometimes you may find over pedalling makes the power dieing off. I find slowing down my cadence more affective
.its a matter of keeping the sweet spot . I'm still messing with finding the best programming setup..I'm hoping the new 29er may turn out to be a good ride..I've really enjoyed learning and building both my bikes.

 

[minexplorer]

Yes I do notice what I would call a cut off point..but it's a mater of getting used to the way the power is spalled up..I call it the sweet spot of power where the cadence is just right..so sometimes you may find over pedalling makes the power dieing off. I find slowing down my cadence more affective
.its a matter of keeping the sweet spot . I'm still messing with finding the best programming setup..I'm hoping the new 29er may turn out to be a good ride..I've really enjoyed learning and building both my bikes.

Yeah ive enjoyed building two kits bbs01 350w & bbshd very much.An before that transforming an old gutless chinese 24v sla given to me. Into a 36v throttle only 19.5 amp rocket. Flies along at 20mph.The motor /controller barely get warm ,even after 2 mile hills at WOT. Jus a cheap £15 controller off ebay,with the shunt solder tweak.

 

[Fordulike]

I personally think that whether it's a BBS01, BBS02 or BBSHD, it's essential to program the 'Keep Current' to 100% before attempting to adjust any other parameters. The way the BBS series controller works with a low 'Keep Current', just stifles any other adjustments. Riders need the motor to sustain a large amount of current on hills, and unfortunately a lot of stock programmed controllers reduce current when you need it most.

Baffles me why Bafang churn these units out programmed this way
Well, a poorly developed original design with crap MOSFETS and little controller heat dissipation does spring to mind. A controller programmed with 20% 'Keep Current' is unlikey to pop a MOSFET or overheat.... or climb any hills

Anyway, it probably all boiled down to minimizing warranty claims.

The design has evolved over the years and there appears to be fewer problems with the latest models though. Still a little gem in my eyes.

 

[Ebyke]

I agree I've not wound mine up to 100% keep current yet but I will probably give your settings a go when I swap the motor to the 29er..I've managed to wind my bbs01b to 18amps without trouble codes appearing and it still goes well but it did get a bit warmer so I've wound it down for now. I've just completed the hydraulic brake switch fitment to the 29er so just awaiting delivery of a spanner then I'm swapping the motor and all the bits over. Can't wait to see the difference between the two bikes...

 

[minexplorer]

I personally think that whether it's a BBS01, BBS02 or BBSHD, it's essential to program the 'Keep Current' to 100% before attempting to adjust any other parameters. The way the BBS series controller works with a low 'Keep Current', just stifles any other adjustments. Riders need the motor to sustain a large amount of current on hills, and unfortunately a lot of stock programmed controllers reduce current when you need it most.

Baffles me why Bafang churn these units out programmed this way
Well, a poorly developed original design with crap MOSFETS and little controller heat dissipation does spring to mind. A controller programmed with 20% 'Keep Current' is unlikey to pop a MOSFET or overheat.... or climb any hills

Anyway, it probably all boiled down to minimizing warranty claims.

The design has evolved over the years and there appears to be fewer problems with the latest models though. Still a little gem in my eyes.

this is what happened when eclipse supplied me with a replacement controller.20% keep current.could hardly climb any hills.so i was resorting to WOT all the time.result no improved economy.im unsure why they did it.my warrenty return ,as you prob remember from my threads ,was not blown fets in the end. still my new one has the 3077 upgrades...yay! It also has another yard of annoying cabling for gear sensor & light...bah!

surprises me why in the ebike business anyone would knowingly provide a component set up to make the product appear ...well s**t basically.you would think the industry would want the product to perform and impress its absolute best.

by the way in the end changing keep current to 100% is virtually all i changed. Tweaked pas 1 an 3 to 40% & 55% and smoothed the figures in between. so now i will have in 5 pas mode. 18,15,12,10 amps,and emergency limp back 7.5amp.i simply just cant peddle this bike a damn yard uphill without power.whoever claims mid drives are as easy to peddle as a regular bike ,when the batterys dead is demented. id rather swap for that first ever bike with the wooden tyres an a good ol 2 mile cobbled street (level).

 

[Ebyke]

Yes they are a nightmare when you have to cycle with power off or flat battery and yes I would say nothing like a regular bike. There's still plenty of drag from that motor gearing to overcome..yer been there got the t shirt.lol..

 

[minexplorer]

Yes they are a nightmare when you have to cycle with power off or flat battery and yes I would say nothing like a regular bike. There's still plenty of drag from that motor gearing to overcome..yer been there got the t shirt.lol..

a word on the programming ebyke. That 7.5amp limp mode didnt feel any diff to no power, so went with 55% for the pas1 ,10amps as lowest pas .also set pas start current to 30% slow start mode 6.crank pulses 2. Still all feels so gutless compared to the bbshd,ive been spoilt.

 

[Ebyke]

It could be your expecting too much from the system..I know Peter C did mention the fact that even with the 500w version compared to 250 it's like chalk and cheese..I've only experienced this 250bbs01b but mine has the later controller and can be tweaked to 18amp without any problems..I need to try something bigger for comparison...I only purchased this because everyone kept on about it being legal..But I've never had any problems with the law and should have gone with something bigger..post your settings up so I can see what ya got..I've got a few settings saved on me laptop..maybe you've missed something..

 

[peter.c]

The only problem with the bafang 36volt mid drive is it arrives in the uk it is restricted by the firmware . The unit was originally intended to run at 25 amps which v x w =900watts peak potential .My 250watt will not go past 15 amps a peak max of 540watt in real life my watt meter flicks to 395 watts and runs at 240 ish but often settles at less than 150 and near the cut off limit 80 watts .The keep current at solves this at 100% but we can only dream
I managed to blag a ride on a full fat us 500watt us version chalk and cheese is an under statement it is not the speed but the torque difference

 

[Nealh]

Some of you guys make laugh you want a pedelec but really need a moped.
Of course 250W compared to 500w or BBSHD is like chalk and cheese as they are in fact an s -ped category bike.
Nothing wrong with having what ever you desire/want, but it gets boring when folk keep bemoaning the legal 250w pedelec bike or kit because speed or acceleration isn't enough.