Bike related hacks and bodges

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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Crowborough, East Sussex
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When cleaning and detailing the bike, I frequently like to turn it upside down in order to get to the hard to reach places. I have become fed up of mucking around placing wooden blocks on the ground under the handlebar grips to prevent damage to the display, and figured that the time had come to make something a little bit more fit for the purpose.

Anyone else have any bike related hacks and bodges that they would like to share? :)

1a.jpg

2a.jpg
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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And here's another tip for the brave who know how far they can stretch their rear frame. It avoids upsetting the gear mechanisms when changing a tube or tyre:

Tube Change Foot method.jpg
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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Here's a third tip on fitting and removing rubber grips on handlebars, this was partially included with my first tip above:

If you've never removed or fitted rubber grips before, use some soapy water to allow the rubber to slide easily. To remove an existing handgrip without damaging it, from the outer edge slide a thin screwdriver blade between the handlebar and grip, apply a little soapy water and rotate the screwdriver so that it winds around the handlebar, spreading the water. Twisting the grip will then free it to be slid off.

And a trade tip, to fit a dry grip and make it secure, apply a little rubber solution just inside the start and slide it straight on in one motion. Don't pause or it might stick half way on.
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EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
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Crowborough, East Sussex
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I've always had great success in fitting grips using an air compressor and airline.

I have a bung that the air nozzle fits through, this goes into the bar end, and I hold the grip that is on the opposing side against the bar and fitted as far as it will go. holding my hand against the grip, I then blast air through the bar, which inflates the grip enough to be able to slide it on. Using isopropanol inside the grip makes the job even easier.

When removing grips, I insert the nozzle between the grip and the bar and use the air to brake any seal, and do as you have suggested with the screwdriver.

The biggest mistake that I have made when fitting grips, was using araldite on foam grips. I won't be doing that again in a hurry, as the inevitable happened and I ruined a grip trying to fit it.
 
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EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
4,632
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Crowborough, East Sussex
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Admittedly I haven't used this for a very long time, but I did go through a stage of placing two pieces of plastic between the rear of the cassette and the spokes, when applying cleaners and lubricants to the cassette and rear mech, ensuring that no contaminates went onto the disc.

It was a bodge that I would do if I was being lazy after cold, wet muddy winter night rides, when I would rather be indoors, but still wanted prevent corrosion.

p1.JPG
 
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Dom T

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 17, 2017
433
377
Shropshire
Guys you really need to put all this stuff on GMBN ;)
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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Now for waterproofing a twistgrip switch or similar rocker switch:

First buy some disposable vinyl gloves, I bought a packet of ten from Sainsburys for £1.25. Now cut about 20 mm off the end of a finger or thumb when no-one's wearing the glove, then stretch it over the lightswitch as shown in the two photographs. The switch can be easily operated through the thin vinyl and it's totally waterproofed.



This vinyl cover will be very hard wearing, but you still have forty-nine spares on the ten gloves, or they can be used for mucky jobs like chain cleaning. Alternatives you can use are tips from household rubber gloves, surgical gloves or even the tip of a condom.
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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Handlebar stems on folders and some other bikes is sometimes complained about for being too high but not adjustable. Using a riser handlebar upside down can usefully lower the riding position and often leave more comfortable handgrip angles:



 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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Front mudguards make great airbrakes, scooping up large quantities of air and compressing it against the near vertical inner rear of the mudguard. Not exactly efficient, so I've filed out the mudguard bracket and mounted it so that the front is tyre hugging. The narrow space between tyre and guard is now adjusted to gradually increase as it goes to the rear. This way, the air that does try to enter is impeded by the flow of air trapped by the tread moving forward, and the remainder that does get in is decompressed by the widening gap, reducing the drag to be as low as possible:

 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,203
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Anyone who's parked prop stand bikes on a steep hill will know of the need for more than two hands to deal with the bike, fish out the lock and secure it to street furniture, and with a trailer it's worse. Not being able to leave them in gear means that like other vehicles, they need a handbrake, occasionally seen on the Continent but never here. For a couple of grams and a fraction of a penny we can have them. Below you see all that's needed, an alloy U section shrouded pawl with an internal rubber bung on it's pivot bolt to keep it where it's left. The first photo shows it disengaged. Pulling the lever right in when stationary and the pawl nudged in with the forefinger engages the pawl tip with the static brake lever housing, leaving the back brake locked on as shown in the second photo. A second squeeze and a touch on the front of the pawl shroud and it's released. Since it can only be engaged by pulling the lever well beyond wheel locking point, it won't be set accidentally when riding:

 
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Tom Rae

Pedelecer
Jan 14, 2017
128
49
Edinburgh Scotland
To hold on a brake lever for parking or on a bike rack, cut a band about 20mm wide from an old inner tube and slide one onto each handlebar and when a brake is needed just pull it round the lever. Also useful for expelling air from a brake system by leaving it on overnight.
 
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