bike cutting out

[electric_avenue]

I'm starting a new thread with a more focussed title, in the hope of drawing in some more expertise. And I know a bit more now.
I have a cyclamatic with a problem. The charger is showing 28v (it's a 24v nominal system) so that seems to be ok. The fully charged battery also shows 28v. When I put it on the bike though, I get red lights as soon as any load goes on and it cuts out after about a mile. All the connections look clean.

Any ideas where I should be looking for the problem/solution?

 

[Alan Quay]

So far everything points to a knackered battery. I'm guessing that you were looking for a different answer?

 

[OldBob1]

how old is your battery and has it been kept charged when not used?

 

[Fordulike]

I'm starting a new thread with a more focussed title, in the hope of drawing in some more expertise. And I know a bit more now.
I have a cyclamatic with a problem. The charger is showing 28v (it's a 24v nominal system) so that seems to be ok. The fully charged battery also shows 28v. When I put it on the bike though, I get red lights as soon as any load goes on and it cuts out after about a mile. All the connections look clean.

Any ideas where I should be looking for the problem/solution?

You mention the connections are clean, but one of the problems I found when I owned one, was the connections opening up on the battery. This is caused by a fair bit of up and down play in the docking station, when the bike travels over rough ground.

Try bending the contacts on the battery slightly inwards, so that they grip the prongs of the docking station better.

 

[KirstinS]

You mention the connections are clean, but one of the problems I found when I owned one, was the connections opening up on the battery. This is caused by a fair bit of up and down play in the docking station, when the bike travels over rough ground.

Try bending the contacts on the battery slightly inwards, so that they grip the prongs of the docking station better.

Does it cut out over rough ground though ?

Find a steep ish and smooth hill and see !

If it is just loading .....then you prob have same issue as my recently deceased battery I'm afraid

And that is one ( or more likely several) knackered cell series. You describe a common symptom for this issue


Battery will be repairable / can be recelled at a cost. Or replaced of course

The only way I know to be 100% sure isb to open and test all the cells

 

[electric_avenue]

It cuts out on level ground, not just bumpy.
How can I go about getting cells tested...could I do it myself?

 

[Fordulike]

It cuts out on level ground, not just bumpy.
How can I go about getting cells tested...could I do it myself?

What I was trying to convey, is that there may be poor electrical conductivity due to the battery contacts opening up over time.

Doesn't necessarily have to happen over rough ground, as the poor contact has already occurred over the months/years.

The battery and docking station is pretty plop, and allows loads of movement.
This can cause the contacts of the battery and docking prongs to spark, and melt the surface area somewhat. Then they don't conduct electricity efficiently anymore.
I managed to wedge a piece of rubber into the battery lock, to help prevent the up and down movement of the battery.

Worth a try bending the contacts, but as KirstinS mentions, it may be poorly/old battery cells, or a bank of cells have become detached (internal wiring)

 

[KirstinS]

What I was trying to convey, is that there may be poor electrical conductivity due to the battery contacts opening up over time.

Doesn't necessarily have to happen over rough ground, as the poor contact has already occurred over the months/years.

The battery and docking station is pretty plop, and allows loads of movement.
This can cause the contacts of the battery and docking prongs to spark, and melt the surface area somewhat. Then they don't conduct electricity efficiently anymore.
I managed to wedge a piece of rubber into the battery lock, to help prevent the up and down movement of the battery.

Worth a try bending the contacts, but as KirstinS mentions, it may be poorly/old battery cells, or a bank of cells have become detached (internal wiring)

Sorry, didn't mean to say it wasn't worth trying

It deffo is !

Guess just "managing expectations" as my boss loves to say

And as for testing - what do you have the most of ? Time or money - serious question.

Testing the cells well require time and some Financial outlay but you'll learn lots. Most likey end up back where you are now ie you prob have some duff cells !

So is it best to just send for testing and repair at same time now ? Depends on your time vs money vs desire to learn

I hope the cheap fix by Fordulike works. I'm just a little bit sceptical

Check first and if not..... Let us know

Tp explain a littlemore what I mean.

You'd need a bare minimum of a Lipo charger/discharger (say 35 quid for an Imax b6 delivered with psu and a multi meter - 15 quid tops online/maplins/Halfords) to test yourself. Along with time to look at you tube and ask questions here etc... The charging and discharging is very very time consuming with a cheap(but good) charger like the Imax

But that 50 quid would go a very good chunk towards simply having it recelled by someone like Insat.

Over to you !

 

[Fordulike]

Sorry, didn't mean to say it wasn't worth trying

It deffo is !

Guess just "managing expectations" as my boss loves to say

I try and approach problems with a minimalistic view these days.

I've spent hours ripping stuff apart in the past, only to find that the solution was a lot simpler.

One example which is similar to the OP's problem, was when a previous bike would conk out under load. I spent ages checking absolutely everything electrical. Turned out to be the cheap inline fuse holder I had installed, creating enough electrical resistance to prevent enough current to flow to the controller.

One upgraded fuse holder later and bingo

 

[KirstinS]

Lucky man ! Never happened on my bikes but occasionally I buy, fix and sell on to help fund the ebike addiction

I bought one 6month old perfect folder for 50quid .....had one corroded connection . Took ten mins to solder and shrink wrap. Felt so guilty I offered it back for 80 but she didn't want it

Sold for 325 on fleabay ! My new battery is nearly free !

 

[JuicyBike]

Try measuring output voltage immediately after the battery appears to have died then again 10 mins later.
Using a testing rig showing how the voltage declines under load can quickly show a faulty cell so if you can, call in to a specialist.
What happens after that first mile. When you switch back on after a pause do you manage a second mile?

 

[KirstinS]

Try measuring output voltage immediately after the battery appears to have died then again 10 mins l?QUOTE]

Perfect application of the 80/20 rule there I reckon !

20% effort and get 80% accurate answer for duff cells (and at zero cost) great advice I think

 

[electric_avenue]

What happens after that first mile. When you switch back on after a pause do you manage a second mile?

I have tried this. It runs for a very short time and cuts out again. I can switch off and on and get another 100 yards quite a few times.
In answer to fordulike and others, the contacts are all clean and I've tried the bending thing to make sure they contact well. I really don't think that's it.

 

[OldBob1]

I think your battery needs some attention.

 

[JuicyBike]

I'm pretty certain you need a new battery.

 

[Fordulike]

Don't suppose it's still under warranty?

 

[electric_avenue]

Inspired by another cyclamatic battery thread, I opened mine up, took the cells out and found a wire broken away from it's soldered connection. Much better now.