Benelli e-misano project. Will need help :-)

[Shooby]

Hi. For some reason this hasn't appeared on the 'introduce yourself' thread, so here it is again (Mods, please delete the original - thank you).

I wasn't looking for an e-bike, but came across this Benelli being sold locally, and was taken by its looks. I'm very familiar with doing up regular bikes, and also happy with electrics, but there's a lot I don't know about these fellows. I've obviously been researching, but I have a number of what are probably basic Qs that I'd appreciate guidance on.

First, the bike itself.



It would appear to be an early model as it has cable disc brakes - which suits me as it's closer to normal brakes to sort... Everything appears to be there, and the real biggie is that it has a recently refurbished battery by a pro company. It came with a bag of parts, mainly a couple more control modules, a second display, and some speed sensors.

The motor is an 8FUN by Bafang MS CoLtd. It has BF1604H60322-1 on it. The current loosely-fitted controller is a KT36/48 ZWSR-ffF01.



My starter Qs are, please;

1) Does that 8FUN hub include speed sensors, hall-effect or similar? The pack of bits I was given included a remote speed sensor, which needs mounting on the fork, with a magnet on a spoke - is this actually needed? It also included one of these disc crank-speed sensors - is that also needed? Isn't that all effectively built in to the hub and controller? Does that model (or serial?) number mean anything?
2) I think the Benelli had a 6 speed/assist set, but this controller seemingly has 4. Would this mean I'd need an LCD control unit to suit? Or can they they be tweaked via a menu?
3) Is there any way for a layman to test each of these main units individually - the motor, the controller, the LCD unit - to see if they are functioning? I can wield a multimeter, and understand electrickery, but not enough to delve into proper electronics. Or, what is the best way to begin the "what's wrong with it", process?

Thanks for any pointers

 

[saneagle]

I don't think that's the original controller. It needs an LCD to work, and so that you can set it up correctly. You need a KT LCD, not any one. I'd recommend LCD3, 5, or 8, definitely not LCD1.

Most modern motors have the speed sensor in them. You will only know when you get it working. You need the speed sensor to stop the controller going to sleep after 5 minutes, though you might be able to switch that off in the settings.

Easiest way to test is with everything connected and powered. Make sure you have a throttle for testing.

The crank sensor is necessary and useful. It detects when you're pedalling.

You should start with the battery. Charge it up and check its voltage. 8t should be 42v. If it's less than 41.5v, it probably needs some attention or it's knackered. When you have an OK battery, connect the motor, LCD and throttle. Switch on the KCD and check that you have 5v on the red and black throttle wires.

If you have sealed connectors, it's going to be difficult to test anything without making up special connectors.

 

[thelarkbox]

Certainly is a striking looking bike, I like.. seems like good generic motor and controller too.. KT controllers are frequently suggested as upgrades.

the snipped of extra legs of resistors and other through the hole components are ideal probes for the tiny diameter waterproof socket connectors.

If no controller display, bridging/shorting the red/blue wires (pins 1 and 2) from the controller display wires should enable the controller and enable throttle control. (If throttle is enabled) an lcd display will be needed to use/select pedal assist and make any configuration changes.

 

[Shooby]

Thank you, both.

I do have a bag of bits, and that has two (or three?) other controllers in it, as well as what looks like the original type of LCD, buttons, and throttle.

The battery was charged up a week ago, and outputs 41.8V today, no load. It was also professionally refurb'd before sale.

Thanks - so it's really stick it all together (carefully), and see what happens

 

[flecc]

the snipped of extra legs of resistors and other through the hole components are ideal probes for the tiny diameter waterproof socket connectors.

Plastic headed pins are ideal if you have any around, since the domed head stops legs shorting against each other if inserted the same amount.

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.

 

[saneagle]

Thank you, both.

I do have a bag of bits, and that has two (or three?) other controllers in it, as well as what looks like the original type of LCD, buttons, and throttle.

The battery was charged up a week ago, and outputs 41.8V today, no load. It was also professionally refurb'd before sale.

Thanks - so it's really stick it all together (carefully), and see what happens

The original had some weird things in it, like a magnetic key to switch it on. If I were doing it, I'd use that KT controller with one of their LCDs. I'm pretty sure that the battery is dumb, but you should check that it has only two wires on the connector just to make sure. The fact that you can measure 41.8v is a good sign that it's dumb.

 

[Shooby]

The original had some weird things in it, like a magnetic key to switch it on. If I were doing it, I'd use that KT controller with one of their LCDs. I'm pretty sure that the battery is dumb, but you should check that it has only two wires on the connector just to make sure. The fact that you can measure 41.8v is a good sign that it's dumb.

I think I know what you mean by 'dumb'
It certainly is now - I have another thread on just the battery, and found a blob of hot-glue where the rubber-covered switch should be, near the LED power indicator. Opened it up, and all that stuff has been removed, leaving only the battery cables heading to the output socket.

 

[Nealh]

The Kt S06s mosfet controller is the way to go if it is currently wired up correctly , if one needs a display then the Kt LCD4 is tiny and very discreet , LCD3 is the best in the range imv but a little bulky so one can look at others like LCD5, LCD10,LCD11, LCD12.

All Kt LCD dipslays are compatible with Kt controllers all one has to do is make sure if buying one to get the correct interface connector so Julet green w/p type or the SM block type.

 

[Shooby]

Fab info - thank you.

I've yet to tackle it properly, but that's helpful info.

I plan to make a simple frame suspended from the garage ceiling to hold the bike where I can check it all, and hopefully set it running...

I'll report back.

 

[Nealh]

With the KT controllers they use current control, this gives the user 5 varying PAS assist levels of power so one can use minimal current /power if one want's to improve cycle fitness or simply wants to use minimal power. The speed in each PAS level remains the same , simply push harder to go above 15.5mph.
The KT gives a set % of current/power dependant on the amp rating of the controller , 13% current/power in PAS1, 20% in PAS2 , 33% in PAS3 , 50% in PAS4 and 100% in PAS5 respectively.

They differ very much from the speed controllers which are no good if you want more control over the power use.
The crappier 3 spd ones simply give 100% power in all three modes , the only variation with each mode is the capped max assist speed in each level.
The slightly better speed controllers like Lishui which Woosh use are a bit better with the current supplied not being so aggressive , however the five assist levels are still quite high ranging from 40/50% as a minimum varying up to 100% in linear increments to PAS5 .