Bbs01 power cutting in out at startup

[minexplorer]

I fitted a brand new 350w kit and samsung cell battery a few months ago.Generally its flawless .but after a few weeks of use ,it developed a small niggling issue,during the first half minutes use at the start of a ride. I have a 42t chainring and a sunrace megagear. I push off halfway down the gears so as not to strain the motor . A couple seconds later the power to the motor stops.Then its back then its gone again,then back etc.Sometimes its twice other times 6 or 7 times maybe. By the time ive covered 20 or more infuriating yards it settles down and is fine for rest of the ride 25 mileles or more.A couple of times only it did it after i left it a long time outside a supermarket .Not as bad tho.It doesnt do it when starting off with the throttle.The lcd displays doesnt go off,all connections are fine.Im at a loss.Anyone seen this before ,is it a known bbs quirk.Any advice much appreciated.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Probably something simple, like a dodgy connection to the pedal sensor. If it bothers you, take the controller off and have a look at the connector. I think you have to take the chain-wheel off first, then 3 screws hold the controller pod. Lift it just enough to get at the three-way black PAS connector. The hall sensor connector is normally siliconed in. If you pull it out, the silicone sometimes stops it going back properly so you have to remove it all, which is a frustrating job. That's why I say lift it just enough to get at the PAS connector.

 

[minexplorer]

Thanks d8veh i might check that if i get fed up enough.I cant help think its something to do with a cold motor coupled with a high demand for power tho. Today i started off with a really low gear 24t and it was fine.Later after a long lunch stop on a steep incline it started cutting on and off when i resumed, despite pushing off in low gear .A few minutes later i hit another steep gradient in top gear and it happened again. I decided to test it.So went back down and deliberately put the bike at the hill again in top gear and it was fine,the motor warmed up this time being the only difference.

 

[tommie]

So it only happens when you come to a hill, never on the flat or downhill?
If thats the case i`d be looking at a battery problem, not delivering enough current, bad cells maybe?

 

[minexplorer]

So it only happens when you come to a hill, never on the flat or downhill?
If thats the case i`d be looking at a battery problem, not delivering enough current, bad cells maybe?

Hi tommie No , flat or hill no difference. just was happening for perhaps half a minute max when the motors cold, just at initial start of a days cycling.But now just occasionally if ive stopped for a while AND an inclines involved,not if on flat. The batterys new from eclipse bikes.Im sure its fine. I usually ride 25 to 30 miles without issue, its just the first few seconds of the ride but its way irritating

 

[Fordulike]

Try disconnecting the throttle and completing a journey on PAS alone. See if the problem persists.

 

[malkie0831]

I push off halfway down the gears so as not to strain the motor . A couple seconds later the power to the motor stops.Then its back then its gone again,then back etc.Sometimes its twice other times 6 or 7 times maybe.

I have a 350W BBS01 and have noticed 'similar' behaviour. I was starting off in 3rd or 4th with pedal assist set to 7. The motor cuts out as I start to pedal, then cuts back in again once the speed or cadence apparently gets over some threshold.
I checked the controller settings using the USB lead and changed the Stop Decay and start-up degree settings but still noticed it.
I next tried starting off with the assist setting at 3 or 4 and find it doesn't happen. My suspicion is that the BMS or controller current limit is cutting in. Once I get up to 7 or 8 mph I can increase the 'Assist' and it is happy.

 

[Fordulike]

I'm not saying my settings are suitable for your set-up, but I've tried various configs and find the following works best for me. BTW, I have the display on 5 PAS levels.

• 'Keep Current' to 100%
• PAS 'Current' settings all to 100%
• PAS 1 on low speed %, PAS 5 on 100%. PAS 2, 3 & 4, increments inbetween

I can't remember the exact percentages off the top of my head, but the motor maintains torque in any PAS setting and I just change the PAS level (speed) to match the situation and/or gear.

 

[minexplorer]

I have a 350W BBS01 and have noticed 'similar' behaviour. I was starting off in 3rd or 4th with pedal assist set to 7. The motor cuts out as I start to pedal, then cuts back in again once the speed or cadence apparently gets over some threshold.
I checked the controller settings using the USB lead and changed the Stop Decay and start-up degree settings but still noticed it.
I next tried starting off with the assist setting at 3 or 4 and find it doesn't happen. My suspicion is that the BMS or controller current limit is cutting in. Once I get up to 7 or 8 mph I can increase the 'Assist' and it is happy.

Glad its not just a fault with mine then.But perhaps a quirk of the design.I found same as you.If i put the PAS down with lowish gear ,its ok. Also wondered if its a cadence thing as like you i found as soon as u get the pedel turning faster it stops playing up.Did u find it only happens from cold too?

 

[minexplorer]

Try disconnecting the throttle and completing a journey on PAS alone. See if the problem persists.

hi,it only occured with PAS.If throttling off from stationary with a cold motor its absolutely fine.Even if i was to pull away in top gear.What will disconnecting the throttle show?

 

[anotherkiwi]

Maybe your PAS disk is broken?

 

[Fordulike]

hi,it only occured with PAS.If throttling off from stationary with a cold motor its absolutely fine.Even if i was to pull away in top gear.What will disconnecting the throttle show?

I'm certainly no expert (see d8veh for that), but I was thinking along the lines that the throttle overrides the PAS. If the throttle is a bit dodgy, or the controller throttle range voltage is programmed wrong, then the controller could be seeing it as a throttle input and swapping over to PAS.

It's a stab in the dark and probably complete b****x, but anything is worth a try.

 

[minexplorer]

I'm certainly no expert (see d8veh for that), but I was thinking along the lines that the throttle overrides the PAS. If the throttle is a bit dodgy, or the controller throttle range voltage is programmed wrong, then the controller could be seeing it as a throttle input and swapping over to PAS.

It's a stab in the dark and probably complete b****x, but anything is worth a try.

The throttle works flawlessly.The issue is when pushing off with PAS.It now does it whenever i stop for a while and the motor fully cools down.Doesnt matter anymore if i lower PAS and gears to start,seems worse.But alll fine and dandy every time after a few seconds of on off on off.Could getting motor constantly covered in mud be a factor.

 

[Fordulike]

The throttle works flawlessly.The issue is when pushing off with PAS.It now does it whenever i stop for a while and the motor fully cools down.Doesnt matter anymore if i lower PAS and gears to start,seems worse.But alll fine and dandy every time after a few seconds of on off on off.Could getting motor constantly covered in mud be a factor.

I was really trying to suggest that as the throttle overrides the PAS, then any issues with the actual throttle, or programming, no matter how tiny, may cause cut-outs or erratic behavior.

I'm making a hash at explaining my thoughts lol. The best thing to do when experiencing issues with a BBSxx, is to disconnect both the throttle and brake cut-offs, then go for a test ride. This should take out of the equation, any issues these perhiperals can cause with the controller.

 

[minexplorer]

I was really trying to suggest that as the throttle overrides the PAS, then any issues with the actual throttle, or programming, no matter how tiny, may cause cut-outs or erratic behavior.

I'm making a hash at explaining my thoughts lol. The best thing to do when experiencing issues with a BBSxx, is to disconnect both the throttle and brake cut-offs, then go for a test ride. This should take out of the equation, any issues these perhiperals can cause with the controller.

I see what u gettin at now fordulike thanks.Will try that tomoro .

 

[minexplorer]

Try disconnecting the throttle and completing a journey on PAS alone. See if the problem persists.

You are completely right fordulike,thanks.Disconnecting the throttle cable cures the problem. How for a complete fix tho as i love having a throttle.Im not dismanteling the whole kit to send back under warrenty,that wld be crazy. It was ok for the 1st month of use .Cld it just be the cable? Spraying WD on the pins didnt work. Another thread with the same issue (i see now plenty of others have had this) noted its a low speed thing.Going away once u get up to around 11 mph .I agree with that.

 

[Fordulike]

Fully understand not wanting to dismantle the kit for a warranty claim. The best case scenario is that it is a dodgy throttle. You may be able to negotiate with the seller to replace just the throttle under warranty. If not, they're fairly cheap to buy.

The next thing could be poorly programmed throttle parameters. This would involve buying a programming cable, installing some software on a laptop or PC, and checking the controller configs. It can be a bit of a faff on if you are not savvy with computers.

Worst case is a problem with the controller itself, which may end up being a warranty claim, as they are costly to buy and can be a pain to fit yourself.

 

[minexplorer]

Fully understand not wanting to dismantle the kit for a warranty claim. The best case scenario is that it is a dodgy throttle. You may be able to negotiate with the seller to replace just the throttle under warranty. If not, they're fairly cheap to buy.

The next thing could be poorly programmed throttle parameters. This would involve buying a programming cable, installing some software on a laptop or PC, and checking the controller configs. It can be a bit of a faff on if you are not savvy with computers.

Worst case is a problem with the controller itself, which may end up being a warranty claim, as they are costly to buy and can be a pain to fit yourself.

Hmmm,i bought mail order from eclipse bikes,dont know what their reps like on reasonableness. Surely if its a programming issue it would have been there from the start ,rather than manafesting after a months use.

 

[Fordulike]

Hmmm,i bought mail order from eclipse bikes,dont know what their reps like on reasonableness. Surely if its a programming issue it would have been there from the start ,rather than manafesting after a months use.

Drop them a line. They can be a little slow on replies, but the company may only have one or two peeps running it. The programming issue is unlikely as you say, but it's worth it at some stage in acquiring a programming cable, just to tweak the BBSxx just the way you like it. You'll be surprised how a few parameter changes can turn it into a hill eating monster!

 

[tommie]

Drop them a line. They can be a little slow on replies, but the company may only have one or two peeps running it. The programming issue is unlikely as you say, but it's worth it at some stage in acquiring a programming cable, just to tweak the BBSxx just the way you like it. You'll be surprised how a few parameter changes can turn it into a hill eating monster!

Probably the throttle itself,
i have two throttles on two different BBS bikes - the first is silky smooth, the second needs a quarter of a turn before it kicks in, and jerky at that.
I`d try another throttle, they`re cheap enough.
Also in the Throttle programming there`s a voltage range that sometimes you have to change, is it 3.5v to 4.1v or something?