Battery question for bbshd and chainring question

[wheeliepete]

just need SWMBO to go on a shopping trip now so that I can start assembly(yes darling I picked this up from eBay for £50, bloody bargain)

Best of luck getting away with that onedon't forget to liaise with your postman to grab your next CC statement

 

[Paul chef]

Best of luck getting away with that onedon't forget to liaise with your postman to grab your next CC statement

Done through PayPal a kind friend who I pay cash to transfers it to my paypal SWMBO is like Sherlock Holmes though, so have to make sure no evidence is left around

 

[Paul chef]

Pete or any one else,time for me to engage your help again SWMBO has gone out for a while so I’ve loosely put things in place. I had 2x10mm spacers and 2x5mm spacers made so 15mm each side I think my chainline is to far out with that combination but the lock ring with the groves in won’t go near the bottom bracket to dig in to it, I assume I tighten this up against the spacers?

 

[wheeliepete]

Time for some creative thinking Paul. You are gonna have to offset the drive to improve your chain line. You are also gonna need another 2/3 mm of spacers so you can tighten the retaining nut. A 42 tooth or bigger Bling Ring or Luna Eclipse chainring will also push your chainline back towards the frame by a few mm. The other thing to consider is a custom cassette to align the cogs you use the most within the useable range you have. This will mean less gears, but with the HD, you shouldn't find that a problem. Get that front deraileur off out the way so you can judge the chainline better.

 

[Paul chef]

I’ve got a few 1mm spacers on the way, I just put it loosely togeather to see what I’d need to do, then had to quickly put away as SWMBO came home lol I’ll have to dismantle the front derailleur tomorrow and take off the gearleaver from my handlebar

 

[rilot]

Is that a 100mm BBSHD?

 

[Paul chef]

Is that a 100mm BBSHD?

Yes it is needed bigger version to clear chainstay

 

[anotherkiwi]

My motor touches the chainstay, it isn't an issue, you only need 1 mm clearance there at the most. I liked the second photo, before I saw it I thought that I had chainline issues...

You need to get the motor as close to the chainstay as you can and a bling ring or similar.

It isn't too serious a problem because with the power of the HD you will probably only need the top three gears. Especially if you mount a 42 tooth blingring.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can't tighten the anti-torque bracket against the spacers because they rotate. You'll need to fabricate some sort of tie-bar to stop the motor rotating around the BB.

 

[Fordulike]

D8veh's perfectly correct. The bracket has knurls on one side to bite into the bottom bracket face. The motor will move about under power if the bracket isn't locked down tight to the actual bottom bracket.

Also, use the proper tool to tighten the outer lock ring. The inner one is ok to cowboy tighten, but the outer is a bugger to lock down tight without the right tool. I tightened both rings with the proper tool over 5k miles ago and the motor hasn't budged since!



Proper tool

 

[Paul chef]

You can't tighten the anti-torque bracket against the spacers because they rotate. You'll need to fabricate some sort of tie-bar to stop the motor rotating around the BB.

Would you recommend the Luna torque bar ?

 

[peter.c]

hi

I have just ordered the California full suspension bracket https://california-ebike.com/shop/bsbf-1-bafang-stabilizer-bar-full-suspension-bike-bbs0102-bbshd/ to try and solve this problem delivery is almost as much as the item
but it looks tidy when fitted.

 

[wheeliepete]

Would you recommend the Luna torque bar ?

I don't think any of those brackets will work on your build because they don't allow for the offset on your drive. The mounting points on the motor will be too far away from your frame tube. I would look at trying to mount the anti torque bracket on the inside of the mounting lug against the BB where it is meant to be. This would mean a small amount of grinding of the motor casing. Alternatively, when you know the offset you need on your drive, make 1 spacer the right length and tig weld it or pin it in a couple of places onto your BB. The bracket can then dig into your spacer with no chance of it rotating. A pair of 12" stilsons and a piece of rag is all you need to tighten your drive.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

They sell a coupl

Would you recommend the Luna torque bar ?

They sell a couple of different ones. It would only take a couple of minutes to knock up your own out of some scrap steel plate. All you need is a bar from one of the two bracket fixing screws to the frame somewhere. I made one for a full-sus carbon fibre bike that had a PF bottom bracket. On carbon fibre, you have to be careful where/how to fix the tie-bar. the only point I could find was a rotating (with the suspension) pivot bolt, so I needed a special bolt too.

 

[Fordulike]

Also, use the proper tool to tighten the outer lock ring. The inner one is ok to cowboy tighten, but the outer is a bugger to lock down tight without the right tool. I tightened both rings with the proper tool over 5k miles ago and the motor hasn't budged since!

Well I never. All this talk of bottom brackets, made me go and check mine. My usual check is to just give the motor a good hard tug, to test for movement. On this occasion though, I actually used my tool (no sniggering) to check the tightness, and both lockrings were loose. I had originally tightened the buggers tight and I mean really really tight.

So folks, might be a good idea to check the locknuts every now and again

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Well I never. All this talk of bottom brackets, made me go and check mine. My usual check is to just give the motor a good hard tug, to test for movement. On this occasion though, I actually used my tool (no sniggering) to check the tightness, and both lockrings were loose. I had originally tightened the buggers tight and I mean really really tight.

So folks, might be a good idea to check the locknuts every now and again

Those little pips will work their way into the BB with vibration, which would make the nut's come loose.

I seem to remember someone on the forum who's motor swang round and went clunk when he stopped because his nuts had come loose.

 

[Paul chef]

So I bought a shark battery which fits in my triangle but it’s too tight to be able to take the battery off the mount. I.e. I can put mount on frame but can’t get the battery to fit on. Do I mount it on top bar like a motorbike fuel tank near the front or do I mount it on top bar close to seat post. Not ideal I know as it shifts the weight further up

 

[wheeliepete]

Have you mounted the battery as low as you can? You may need some additional rivnuts in the frame to line up with the mounting bracket fixing points.

 

[Paul chef]

Yes Pete, I put the mounting bracket as low as it would go, there’s not enough space to get the battery in and slide down. I’ve got some rivenuts which I ordered to give the bracket extra stability in the photo I’m actually holding the battery and bracket in place
I think it would have been easier to buy an ebike

 

[wheeliepete]

Ah yes, that is a small triangle! Towards the seat post on the top bar would keep to weight central, but not ideal. Mounting it on a rack maybe? Buying an ebike would have been easier, but hey, not half as much fun!