Help! battery needs repair

[Nealh]

Tbh knowing some of the cells are self discharging then I doubt it will remain balanced at all, so you might as well continue going to 4.2v per cell.
Because chargers only use cc/cv they can't regulate cells voltages, these can only remain stable and balanced if all are good to start with and remain good.
I think it is the case that 30Q is for sur now deemed not to be a good choice to select over other cells.

The 3 Blue marked VR's are for voltage regulation and current regulation, whether they actual will do so I don't know. The one marked VR4 at the top on it's own will be the main one to try and adjust for voltage. If you do try it make a note of how much of a turn you make, a 1/4 turn will usually make a significant voltage change one way or the other (anti c/w to go lower 7 c/w to go higher). I set my meter up with probes on the charger output connector and watch the meter whilst making adjustments to the VR.

The VR/C5 (C5 may denote current 5a ) near the coil is used to adjust the charge current as the the PCB track has continuity to the shunt, again once and if you try adjusting voltage set your meter to read current and adjust the current VR/C5.

On the meter leave the Black in the com & put the Red in the 10adc socket, turn the dial to 10A reading and place your probes on the charger output connector as you would to test voltage ( you may get a small light spark as you touch the Black probe to gnd ). You meter should read 5a and it should decrease as you turn VR/C5 anti c/w.

 

[minexplorer]

Tbh knowing some of the cells are self discharging then I doubt it will remain balanced at all, so you might as well continue going to 4.2v per cell.
Because chargers only use cc/cv they can't regulate cells voltages, these can only remain stable and balanced if all are good to start with and remain good.
I think it is the case that 30Q is for sur now deemed not to be a good choice to select over other cells.

The 3 Blue marked VR's are for voltage regulation and current regulation, whether they actual will do so I don't know. The one marked VR4 at the top on it's own will be the main one to try and adjust for voltage. If you do try it make a note of how much of a turn you make, a 1/4 turn will usually make a significant voltage change one way or the other (anti c/w to go lower 7 c/w to go higher). I set my meter up with probes on the charger output connector and watch the meter whilst making adjustments to the VR.

The VR/C5 (C5 may denote current 5a ) near the coil is used to adjust the charge current as the the PCB track has continuity to the shunt, again once and if you try adjusting voltage set your meter to read current and adjust the current VR/C5.

On the meter leave the Black in the com & put the Red in the 10adc socket, turn the dial to 10A reading and place your probes on the charger output connector as you would to test voltage ( you may get a small light spark as you touch the Black probe to gnd ). You meter should read 5a and it should decrease as you turn VR/C5 anti c/w.

thanks for all the help nealh ill try those suggestions on adjustment out today.ive still yet to do the test to see if the cells/which cells self discharge, after being fully charged. on that note all batteries lose a bit of charge with storage.im assuming its just it shouldnt be a noticable amount over a few days. would slowing the charging speed to 3 or 4 amps( if possible )help balancing as you suggested earlier. especially if it can be tuned to not exceed 4.05-4.10 per cell.

 

[minexplorer]

Tbh knowing some of the cells are self discharging then I doubt it will remain balanced at all, so you might as well continue going to 4.2v per cell.
Because chargers only use cc/cv they can't regulate cells voltages, these can only remain stable and balanced if all are good to start with and remain good.
I think it is the case that 30Q is for sur now deemed not to be a good choice to select over other cells.

The 3 Blue marked VR's are for voltage regulation and current regulation, whether they actual will do so I don't know. The one marked VR4 at the top on it's own will be the main one to try and adjust for voltage. If you do try it make a note of how much of a turn you make, a 1/4 turn will usually make a significant voltage change one way or the other (anti c/w to go lower 7 c/w to go higher). I set my meter up with probes on the charger output connector and watch the meter whilst making adjustments to the VR.

The VR/C5 (C5 may denote current 5a ) near the coil is used to adjust the charge current as the the PCB track has continuity to the shunt, again once and if you try adjusting voltage set your meter to read current and adjust the current VR/C5.

On the meter leave the Black in the com & put the Red in the 10adc socket, turn the dial to 10A reading and place your probes on the charger output connector as you would to test voltage ( you may get a small light spark as you touch the Black probe to gnd ). You meter should read 5a and it should decrease as you turn VR/C5 anti c/w.

just checked the vr4 actually marked vr2 (the vr4 marked spot next to it is unused).yeh ...its fully adjustable.i didnt bother seeing how far it went, but several volts either way in .1 increments by the looks. the meter charge current i found is 3.15 amps at the moment so left it alone.

 

[minexplorer]

update. adjusted charger to charge cells to 4.05v. all at 4.05v 24hrs later all 4.04v several days later all still at 4.04v. used hot glue to make sure bms socket doesnt work loose.think all the pins are making good contact.

Optimistically set off.pulling high amps on cpl hills early on was fine. later had 2 cut outs on hills after 15-30 secs.first one pulling 30amps via throttle,2nd time 20 amps on pas3. tho hills fine on pas1 around 12amps. both times the display showed the voltage had not dropped below 49v.no where near the lvc of 42v. the first one took an on/off of the battery switch to get going again.the 2nd time i had to flick it on/off twenty times whilst holding the lcd display button to get it to switch on again.

all the cells read an even 3.72v after the ride. Could kirsten be right and its my lcd display incorrectly registering a huge non existent sag . Or a deteriorated cell or more that are suffering an astronomic sag under load ,which the display of course wont show. or do the symptoms suggest something else. hope someone can give a further suggestion. thanks anyone

 

[Nealh]

If you had a bad cell/s the balance for sure will be out and all over the place, start and end balance is good so

The 30Q was designed for high current delivery for battery tools the cycle life is poor and not up to ebike needs, IMHO either they are toast and sag badly or the BMS might be at fault. Try and temp wire a separate cheap £2 or £3 voltage display between the battery and controller go for ride and see what it tells you, if no sag then it is likely the BMS at fault.
The display might be an issue but highly unlikely, I would say the cheap ebay 2 or 3 quid option will save you wasting money on a lcd you might not need.
The cheap display I talk of has a battery bar indicator, voltage & % readout and are about 30mm x 60mm in size with 2 wires.

 

[minexplorer]

If you had a bad cell/s the balance for sure will be out and all over the place, stsrt and end balance is good so

The 30Q was designed for high current delivery for battery tools the cycle life is poor and not up to ebike needs, IMHO either they are toast and sag badly or the BMS might be at fault. Try and temp wire a separate cheap £2 or £3 voltage display between the battery and controller go for ride and see what it tells you, if no sag then it is likely the BMS at fault.
The display might be an issue but highly unlikely, I would say the cheap ebay 2 or 3 quid option will save you wasting money on a lcd you might not need.
The cheap display I talk of has a battery bar indicator, voltage & % readout and are about 30mm x 60mm in size with 2 wires.

thanks nealh. i do have an identical lcd display on my bbs01 i can swap over, to test the cutting out problem kirsten mentioned she had earlier in this thread.i also have a couple of those voltage displays u mention. ill try an rig one up.

when this issue first arose many months ago and i manually balanced the cells.it did return to allowing full 30amp load right down to the LVC with no cutting out.for a few recharges.since then its not been used just left in a state of half+ charge. theres tons of people using ebike 30q batteries,surely they cant go toast after 1500 miles use?

 

[Nealh]

The evidence from the ES boys is they self discharge and are poor after the first 50 -100 cycles.

Oh and by the way last time I saw him Kirstin was still a bloke and not a she or heeshe.

 

[minexplorer]

The evidence from the ES boys is they self discharge and are poor after the first 50 -100 cycles.

Oh and by the way last time I saw him Kirstin was still a bloke and not a she or heeshe.

Lol....An i must have done 70 recharges easy. ordered some anderson connectors.so i can insert my watt/volt etc meter into the circuit. not chopping off the andersons the battery/motor came fitted with. ive got one of these ive been using as a display on my wifes old bike.

 

[minexplorer]

wow over two years ago this saga with my bbshd. it destroyed my interest in electric bikes,that 450 quid down the drain.cant afford a new battery ,its just sat in the shed for two years. even the reliable bbs01 hasnt been out in two years either.this experience plunged me into such a downer on e biking have never ridden again. just drive out for long walks now.
only the missus e bikes now and hers has just packed up. the planatery gears in her rear hub motor have stripped. anyone know if theres anywhere stocks a big range of such replacement parts i cld try matching up something.

 

[soundwave]

bafanfg has sold out and now use can bus programming so that bbshd you have will just go up in price as you can up the amps with the software cable

 

[minexplorer]

bafanfg has sold out and now use can bus programming so that bbshd you have will just go up in price as you can up the amps with the software cable

how do u mean soundwave.i have the programming cable.but i thought you couldnt raise the factory controller above 30 amps....lol the missus knackered bikes 36v batt connected in series with my bbs01 s 2nd 36v thats in parallel, now that wld be something ,a bbshd with a 72v batt power. the factory 30amp controller can only take 52v i believe.

 

[soundwave]

you now need this and a dealer account. it is all can bus from now on ffs

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