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Battery for Woosh Petite?

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The battery on my wife's Woosh Petite is on its way out & doesn't hold charge or have the necessary "oomph" on hills any more. Woosh won't have any replacement batteries in stock until the end of May & Jimmy quoted a rebuilding cost of £375 for 14Ah or £450 for 18Ah which is a bit pricey even if it's a quality job. There are no end of listings on eBay for eBike batteries but I can't see one that looks exactly the same. Here are a few photographs if anyone can help with identification & a pointer to a source for this battery.

 

image0.thumb.jpeg.113cbf62656e60a620e84d85508ead8b.jpegimage1.thumb.jpeg.5f47be2bbc20d30647d8c154213954df.jpegimage2.thumb.jpeg.179fc8787e360b96661c3b17660e38c4.jpegimage5.thumb.jpeg.aa45699e357eac282c786d9ca2d9c86a.jpegimage4.thumb.jpeg.29b18b3f1e5cec27f6e100c028a6e83f.jpegimage3.thumb.jpeg.34ec309502a1f72508c52c4430dfc4b1.jpeg

in principle, you can use any 36v battery you want as long as you find somewhere to put the controller. The controller is located in the compartment at the front of the rack that the battery plugs into.

 

There's one caveat, and that is that the controllers in those compartments are sometimes integrated with the battery connector, i.e. the prongs are fixed to the controller instead of joined to a prong connector by wires, so you have to look in that compartment to see whether your controller is an aluminium box connected to the battery connector by wires. If it is, the easiest solution is to get a complete rack battery and relocate the controller in the provided compartment, which means unplugging all the connectors on the controller, threading the wires through the hole and plugging them back in again.

 

Here's an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174652575226?hash=item28aa1acdfa:g:4oQAAOSwcM5gN1TK

Edited by vfr400

  • Author
Thanks for the link but as far as I am concerned the easiest solution is just to buy an identical battery & swap it over so I was hoping that someone would recognise the type of battery that I have from the photographs. I hope that I'm not going to be reduced to swapping over the controller too.

Edited by nigelbb

You may be lucky and find an exact case/connector match (polarity may be an issue) but cell and assembly quality will be an unknown.

Jimmy's price may seem high but the cell quality will be good (uses named cells) and his assembly methodology is high quality using copper strips rather than nickel, which has a much higher conductivity. You will end up with a battery with longer life than a cheap one.

I have two batteries re-celled by Jimmy, both with Boston Power Swing cells and both are going strong. I'm about to get the wife's Big Bear done, which looks like the same case as yours.

The copper interconnectors are only necessary for high current draw controllers, most standard use is less then 20a so nickel is ample for 5P battery cell groups.

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