Help! battery controller,.

[matthewslack]

this is what they sold me, but looking at the plate which the battery sits on it says different if i am right ?

Yes, that's how it looks. Are there any markings or engravings or labels on the motor?

 

[keith zelecs]

Yes, that's how it looks. Are there any markings or engravings or labels on the motor?

 

[keith zelecs]

got this if it means any thing,

 

[matthewslack]

Someone will recognise it!

 

[Az.]

You should be more concerned with battery capacity.

Tyres you have are not designed for long rides.

 

[keith zelecs]

understand just looking to see if i have been sold a bike from ebay with the wrong spec,

 

[saneagle]

this is what they sold me, but looking at the plate which the battery sits on it says different if i am right ?

You have a 750w motor, a 350w 14A controller and a 48v battery. Personally, I'd call it a 250w bike because there are many other ones with the same power as that, which are sold as 250w bikes.

The maximum power that your bike takes from the battery is 14 x 48 = 672w, which is about the same as most 250w bikes. The maximum power at the back wheel is about 0.7 x 672 = 470w, but you can't get that in most conditions because the back emf from the motor cuts down the voltage as you speed up.

Your bike has exactly the same power as mine, which is just about right for an electric pedal assist bike. It's enough to give brisk acceleration and climb just about any hill you're likely to encounter with a bit of help from pedalling.there

 

[keith zelecs]

You have a 750w motor, a 350w 14A controller and a 48v battery. Personally, I'd call it a 250w bike because there are many other ones with the same power as that, which are sold as 250w bikes.

The maximum power that your bike takes from the battery is 14 x 48 = 672w, which is about the same as most 250w bikes. The maximum power at the back wheel is about 0.7 x 672 = 470w, but you can't get that in most conditions because the back emf from the motor cuts down the voltage as you speed up.

Your bike has exactly the same power as mine, which is just about right for an electric pedal assist bike. It's enough to give brisk acceleration and climb just about any hill you're likely to encounter with a bit of help from pedalling.there

thankyou for your insight much appreciated, I think I will treat myself to a stronger battery with more amps if they find a battery which just slots in, and maybe join the 2 together at a later date , thx

 

[saneagle]

thankyou for your insight much appreciated, I think I will treat myself to a stronger battery with more amps if they find a battery which just slots in, and maybe join the 2 together at a later date , thx

Your battery is fine. It's the controller that's limiting your power. What is it that you're trying to achieve? You're battery should take you around 30 miles without pedalling and around 50 miles with light pedalling. Is that not far enough?

 

[keith zelecs]

That's the problem, only getting round 20 miles with battery on medium and peddling 90 % off the time going from Ryde to Newport on the isle of wight and that's a daily run so stuck with charging again to use it again.

 

[saneagle]

That's the problem, only getting round 20 miles with battery on medium and peddling 90 % off the time going from Ryde to Newport on the isle of wight and that's a daily run so stuck with charging again to use it again.

According to Google, your journey is 7.1 miles each way, so isn't 20 miles enough?

I forgot that yours is a fatbike which is a lot less efficient. It must be a combination of the tyres and crappy speed control controller. Fat bikes are not really suitable for long commutes. If you need to go further than 20 miles and you can't charge at work, your best option would be to carry a spare battery of exactly the same type.

After I started commuting 14 miles each way, my legs became stronger, so I didn't need so much assistance, but that's not really going to work on your bike because it needs a lot more assistance. You might get a bit of improvement, though. Changing tyres is not an option, and changing the controller won't make a massive difference on a fat bike, so you're pretty well stuck with increasing the battery capacity somehow or changing to a more efficient bike. You'd do the journey a lot quicker with a lot less effort if you used a converted road bike or similar.

 

[keith zelecs]

According to Google, your journey is 7.1 miles each way, so isn't 20 miles enough?

I forgot that yours is a fatbike which is a lot less efficient. It must be a combination of the tyres and crappy speed control controller. Fat bikes are not really suitable for long commutes. If you need to go further than 20 miles and you can't charge at work, your best option would be to carry a spare battery of exactly the same type.

After I started commuting 14 miles each way, my legs became stronger, so I didn't need so much assistance, but that's not really going to work on your bike because it needs a lot more assistance. You might get a bit of improvement, though. Changing tyres is not an option, and changing the controller won't make a massive difference on a fat bike, so you're pretty well stuck with increasing the battery capacity somehow or changing to a more efficient bike. You'd do the journey a lot quicker with a lot less effort if you used a converted road bike or similar.

yes lot of sense in that,

 

[Az.]

Another option is to take charger with you and charge at work if that is possible.

 

[keith zelecs]

yes I can do that be cheep as well haha