Check the voltage from your charger as well, these have been known to fail. The Charger should read 54.6v as well.
Battery charging 101
- Thread starter Brian55
- Start date
Please uplug the charger soon after the LED on it goes from red to green.
Batteries are most at risk of deterioriation when it is completly flat or completely full. This is because the charging process moves Lithium from one electrode to the other. The battery is most vulnerable when one electrode is at maximum volume and the other at minimum volume. Chargers are more at risk when left on green (not charging) for a long period as the output voltage is at it highest.
If you don't use your bike in the winter, keep the battery at about 50%-70%, 3 or 4 bars on the LCD battery meter.
Batteries are most at risk of deterioriation when it is completly flat or completely full. This is because the charging process moves Lithium from one electrode to the other. The battery is most vulnerable when one electrode is at maximum volume and the other at minimum volume. Chargers are more at risk when left on green (not charging) for a long period as the output voltage is at it highest.
If you don't use your bike in the winter, keep the battery at about 50%-70%, 3 or 4 bars on the LCD battery meter.
As I understand it, the OP's battery is new and likely been sitting in storage for some time since manufacture before being first used.
All the charger LED turning to green means is that the battery is drawing below (typically) 2-300mv. It's still topping-off/balancing for some time thereafter. The only way of really knowing is to measure current draw, but IMO all the OP is doing here is getting stored cells back into balance, which is a good thing.
His battery was manufactured last October. I supplied it to Brian. There is no need to do any balancing.
All of my five 36v e-bike batteries (2 x Fiido, 2 x Phylion*, 1 x TranzX*) continue to draw (typically) 18w once the charger LED turns green. It takes another 0.5 to 1 hour before current draw drops below 3w, which is, I'd assume, when balancing has actually stopped?
*These too are Sans chargers.
*These too are Sans chargers.
Post #18
OP Post #23
Which shows a rise from 53.7v to 54.4 v. That clearly demonstrates the OP's battery is continuing to balance after the LED first turned green.
SANS own specs say the LED turns green when current draw is less than 300mA (although there are several technical adaptations of the same Sans branded charger). That doesn't mean the battery isn't still charging/balancing, just that it's generally in the range of the battery being "near full", not necessarily absolutely fully charged or balanced.
Measure the Sans charger output yourself... you'll see.
There is nothing wrong with his battery, it is just a new kit. Give Brian a bit of time to understand what's what and find his own ways. You guys tell him to try various techniques, which address problems that aren't there and can cause accidents.
That's looking a lot healthier now Brian and almost fully balanced & charged, your meter also may be 0.2v out unless one can check it against another known source.
Now you know that it is the charger one has to wait for the Green light to switch and not the battery LED's you shouldn't have issues again.