bafang suddenly cut out today

[guerney]

dpc18 display

My dpc18 display always measures lower voltage than my reasonably accurate multimeters.

 

[it is i footpump]

last night charged battery ,multimeter reads 54.7v
today turn on battery a slight electrical (crack) was heard, now no power to lcd , multimeter reads 54.1.
i do not know if my 48v 13ay upp battery has an internal fuse?
should i attempt to open battery case for any obvious defect?
where do i keep the battery in the meantime , i have no garage,

where can i purchase a good quality 48v downtube replacement in the uk.
inersat i believe no longer exists,
thank you all

 

[guerney]

Did the slight electrical crack come from the UPP battery? Perhaps one of the battery experts will advise.

About three years ago, before I bought proper tools and gained some wire stripping and soldering skills, I accidentally murdered my first BBS01B controller - two tiny craft knife cuts I'd made into sheathing between +tive and -tive battery wires got too close, resulting in an arc and a crack = dead controller.

 

[it is i footpump]

i think it was from battery as soon as i used battery switch battery is now outside in an old microwave

 

[saneagle]

i think it was from battery as soon as i used battery switch battery is now outside in an old microwave

OK, I think I have it now, and Matthew beat me to it in an earlier post. Here's what I think has happened:

Some time ago, you connected your battery to the receiver when it was switched on. The inrush did some burning to the contacts, which compromised the contact and caused your intermittent faults. The last time you switched on the the battery, the compromised contact arced and burnt some more so that it no longer makes contact.

Have a good look at the contacts and inspect them for damage. Tell us what type you have - round or bladed? The round ones burn the easiest, though the bladed ones scan burn pretty bad too. It's always the ones in the battery that take most of the damage.

 

[it is i footpump]

thanks all contacts are round pin, there is no sign of any arcing at all .i suspect it might be a problem with battery on /off switch as sometimes i had to turn on/off and on again
as of yet have not plucked up courage to open battery.
i have ordered a new one from greenlance

 

[saneagle]

thanks all contacts are round pin, there is no sign of any arcing at all .i suspect it might be a problem with battery on /off switch as sometimes i had to turn on/off and on again
as of yet have not plucked up courage to open battery.
i have ordered a new one from greenlance

If it's a Hailong type, the power doesn't go through the battery switch. That's just a remote switch to switch the BMS on/off. Only those old silver fish type batteries have the power going through the key-switch.

 

[it is i footpump]

Thanks saneagle, Just looked inside the battery cannot completly free inerds from the case seems to be some bonding between inerds and case.
Cannot see anything obvious, nothing smells burnt,

Cant see the bms properly, No wires appear loose,

 

[Ghost1951]

Magnet gap is critical and can cause cut outs.
Better still buy a nice reliable TSDZ2/8 , I have had more reliability from mine then a BBS.

When did you buy the BBS01 Nealh?

If it was a good while ago, they had mosfet issues and water ingress at the crank bearing. The problems were well known and were fixed.

This was all fixed years ago. Totally different controller and as I understand it, a nice crank bearing seal. Mine was made around 2020 and has been completely reliable in all respects. It whizzes me along silently, and has spent a fair bit of time really working hard at 500 watts input on long steep hills in these parts. It has never given me the slightest trouble in 2000 miles and I don't expect any either in the next 2000.

 

[it is i footpump]

Thanks all i purchased another 48v 17ah battery., but it had bullet connecters, bafang is xt60,purchsed a bullit to xt60 adapter but no good as bullits were were the opposite to battery male/female.
The base plate on original battery mount was 5pin.

new base plate 4 bars.
Purchased a lead with xt60.

all working ok, but range still naff about 40 miles, mainly pas 3 off nine no major hills.

 

[Nealh]

Thanks all i purchased another 48v 17ah battery., but it had bullet connecters, bafang is xt60,purchsed a bullit to xt60 adapter but no good as bullits were were the opposite to battery male/female.
The base plate on original battery mount was 5pin.

new base plate 4 bars.
Purchased a lead with xt60.

all working ok, but range still naff about 40 miles, mainly pas 3 off nine no major hills.

I saw your other thread so this makes more sense.
40 miles equates to 20wh/m which isn't unreasonable , depends how much one is using asiststance.
A fit rider who can rid eabove the cut off often will be able to tweak the wh/m down to about 8- 12 wh/m.

 

[guerney]

When the 36V BBS01B controller limit was 15A, keep current at 100%, and using maximum assistance all of the time, I used to get 43 miles max from my 19.2Ah/691Wh LG MH1 18650 celled battery ≈ 16.1Wh per mile over mixed terrain. My bike's wheels are smaller than the OP's. I'd be interested to see all of the OP's settings, either export of configuration file or screenshots of configurator.

With the controller limit now at 20A, range is a heck of a lot less, but I haven't done a range test with this three and a half year old battery yet.

 

[Nealh]

BBS range is all about the keep current and adjusting to max will have an effect on range.
My old BBS01 I use to manage 52 miles from the 14.5ah battery , KC though was set at a modest 20% by Woosh.

 

[guerney]

KC though was set at a modest 20%

I think they're all set like that by Bafang. Here's a screenshot my original "Keep current" I've kept stored...





A very capable motor kneecapped and hobbled like that evidently drove so many weirdos to find each other on the internet (thanks internet for helping weirdos to easily find like minded weirdos) to hack the damn thing, bricking controllers in the process to make it better. And that's why I object to such customisation being made more difficult and banned. Here's another example of poor product development posted by @AGS:

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/puch-emaxi-build.46809/post-722086

Perhaps they ran out of development money at some stage? Bafang aren't poor, but they still mucked it up. Fortunately their BBSXXX motors are popular enough and their controller protocols and firmware easy enough for hackers to figure out. But technology moves on and as Bosch have shown, ebike systems can be made pretty much unhackable these days. A lot of future locked the fsck down ebikes will be non-repairable non-customisable crap when the cabal of vested interests soon have their way with ebike legislation, using ebike battery fires as an excuse.

I would have sent my BBS01B kit back for a refund if configurators hadn't been available. Bloody awful it was. Brilliant now.