I'm surprised I haven't been arrested for crimes against good taste already.Well if they only draw 3.32mA then you can mount 150 of them on the front of your bike.
I'm surprised I haven't been arrested for crimes against good taste already.Well if they only draw 3.32mA then you can mount 150 of them on the front of your bike.
Less current is drawn at 12V than at 6V. I'll still be disconnecting it from my BBS01B controller - fewer outgoings the better, like my current account.I have a Bafang Mid-drive M510 motor, and the controller only supplies 12 Volt power to the front light on my - MarioBike Bird -
I agree about your Current Bank Account (and mine) but if the current draw is so low it is well within the tolerances of the output from the Contoller, so if it's useful to you I would leave it connected as I plan to do with mine, despite some cautionary warnings, as the overall current draw of both front and rear light are still way under the maximum output of the controllerLess current is drawn at 12V than at 6V. I'll still be disconnecting it from my BBS01B controller - fewer outgoings the better, like my current account.
To switch that light on manually during the day (it's automatically switched on at night), I have to long press the switch for lights on the DPC-18 display's display's button pad - every second counts, you only live once! It'll be faster and convenient to switch on, when it's soldered to my battery like the others, routed through one of the other or additional switches. At some point, I've go to reroute power and switching for lighting anyway, because I want to add ebike battery powered rear lights (headlights made red, preferably flashing) to my bicycle trailers, plus maybe indicators on my bike if necessary. Haven't decided if indicators are absolutely necessary yet.I agree about your Current Bank Account (and mine) but if the current draw is so low it is well within the tolerances of the output from the Contoller, so if it's useful to you I would leave it connected as I plan to do with mine, despite some cautionary warnings, as the overall current draw of both front and rear light are still way under the maximum output of the controller
WOW !! amazing setup . . but I wouldn't want to go anywhere near a 48 volt battery and start soldering, which is why I took the easy route and just used a Y-shaped plug-in connector into the front-light wiring loom. Good luck with all of those lights and indicators if you do connect in Maybe even a "flashing blue light" for those emergency rides hahaIt'll be faster and convenient to switch on, when it's soldered to my battery like the others, routed through one of the other or additional switches.
If you did solder lights on, perhaps your battery would send messages reporting abnormal function via CAN bus?but I wouldn't want to go anywhere near a 48 volt battery and start soldering
If that wasn't illegal, I would have done it already - I have heat resistant blue acetate sheet. Haven't been stopped by the cops yet, ridden past them many times. These lights stop cars pulling out on front: three bright flashing headlights never fail to get me noticed by drivers in daylight, but they're too nauseating for me to view at night, even though they're all angled down at the road.Maybe even a "flashing blue light" for those emergency rides haha