Do you mean you turn the panel off ? Or set the pas to 0 ?
And do you have brake cutouts fitted ?
bafang mid-drive and akku connection
- Thread starter barbe
- Start date
And do you have brake cutouts fitted ?
Generally, if there is any problem with the battery, the LCD switches off, so you have to switch it back on. 11.6Ah is the size (capacity) of your battery, nothing to do with how much current it can give. You have to look at the listing to see how much current it can give. there's normally two characteristics listed, which are continuous current and maximum current.
The only thing I can think of that will give the problem you described is the phase wire connections, which are inside the controller pod. Some are bullet type and others are Andersons. I've seen Andersons so loose that they wouldn't stay connected. It might be worth checking them.
The only thing I can think of that will give the problem you described is the phase wire connections, which are inside the controller pod. Some are bullet type and others are Andersons. I've seen Andersons so loose that they wouldn't stay connected. It might be worth checking them.
In the listing from where you bought the battery. See here:
36v EBike Battery Pack 900W Samsung 29ET 11.6Ah Li-Ion Battery for Electric Bike | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 36v EBike Battery Pack 900W Samsung 29ET 11.6Ah Li-Ion Battery for Electric Bike at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
- Continuous discharge current: 25A = approx. 900 watts
- Peak Instant Discharge Current: 60A
I think only the older ones have Andersons. The newer ones have bullet connectors, though they too can be loose.
Hi! I will verify that. Thanks.
here is an attachment of one discussion with my seller :
Hello! I thank you for your answer and know that I read your messages with interest! What I mean with the PAS "0" is that a bad electronic information could interfere with the pedelec and thus produce a slowing down of the ebike. In my case, the "0" PAS would falsely occur while I am pedaling at the "5" PAS, for example. I know this scenario is the one I live with my ebike, but can not solve the hardware problem. The battery seems to be out of suspicion, since its charge on the display remains the same when the ebike slows down. I am told on the forum to check the controller's wiring. Can I do this without my warranty being lost?
Thank you for helping me again. I do not want to embarrass you but enjoy my bafang to the fullest.
Grüsse.
This scenario as described above is the one I suspect.
Your opinion is welcome! Thanks.
here is an attachment of one discussion with my seller :
Hello! I thank you for your answer and know that I read your messages with interest! What I mean with the PAS "0" is that a bad electronic information could interfere with the pedelec and thus produce a slowing down of the ebike. In my case, the "0" PAS would falsely occur while I am pedaling at the "5" PAS, for example. I know this scenario is the one I live with my ebike, but can not solve the hardware problem. The battery seems to be out of suspicion, since its charge on the display remains the same when the ebike slows down. I am told on the forum to check the controller's wiring. Can I do this without my warranty being lost?
Thank you for helping me again. I do not want to embarrass you but enjoy my bafang to the fullest.
Grüsse.
This scenario as described above is the one I suspect.
Your opinion is welcome! Thanks.
And I would like to know if this is normal: I lift the rear wheel of the ebike, I put the PAS "1", I press the accelerator on the finger, the wheel reaches the maximum speed of the PAS "1", I let go the accelerator finger, the wheel continues to rotate at the same speed ... I must turn off the power to the display so that the engine stops spinning the wheel. In my opinion it is not normal.
It's probably because the pedal is going round with the motor so that it thinks you're pedalling. It won't do that when you have you feet on the pedals or hold the pedal with your hand while you test with the throttle. I think you're panicking about nothing.
Yes, you are right for that.
But I do not panic because of these characteristics of the electric motor for which I am only learning but only because I did not find why my ebike undergoes a slowdown while I pedal normally. Well, now I have discovered the reason ... By chance ... By disconnecting my rear brake cable at the controller I reconnected it then by passing the cable on the same side as the brake handle. While in the previous situation the cable passed on the side of the front brake handle, that is to say passed to the left of the gallows while now it passes to the right of the gallows. The cable is more free and no longer rubs the gallows, which certainly caused interference because this brake cable is provided with some electricity.
So my problem number 1 is now resolved so I do not need to check the controller or change its settings. I will still have the usb cable programmer if necessary.
I am happy. My ebike is 100% functional!
Thank you for the assistance.
