Back wheel or a new used bike .

[jarob10]

I had similar problems with a bbs02 hard tail.

I settled on a 36hole hub with Big Ben tyre and all seems well. I also use a rim designed for calliper brakes, as I think these may be a bit stiffer.

14g spokes are optimum as well. I noticed recently that (fatter) 13g nipples (in certain rims) force a near 90 degree angle against the rim. Swapping to the slimmer 14g nipple, and the extra space available means the nipple angle can rotate more freely and ultimately point towards the hub spoke hole when tensioned. Crucially, this avoids an induced shear load on the spoke.during the wheel build

 

[guerney]

Brass is low friction, and is supposed to rotate back, but doesn't rotate back enough sometimes - this is why when tightening spokes, I overtighten slightly, then loosen by about a quarter turn afterwards, to prevent leaving a twist... whether this works as intended is unsure, but I haven't had a broken spoke on my newly self-adjusted new wheels yet (700+ miles and counting on the new wheels, light rider, light bike, bbs01b limited to 15mph, roads only)(I only ever get broken spokes after some accident anyway)

 

[jarob10]

Brass is low friction, and is supposed to rotate back, but doesn't rotate back enough sometimes - this is why when tightening spokes, I always loosen by about a quarter turn afterwards, to prevent leaving a twist... whether this works as intended is unsure, but I haven't had a broken spoke on my newly self-adjusted new wheels yet (700 miles and counting, light rider, light bike, limited to 15mph, roads only).

A blob of marine (thick) grease on the spoke threads helps with this. It also equalises thread friction which I’ve found helps when truing, and hopefully slows rate of corrosion between dissimilar nipple/ spoke materials.

 

[guerney]

A blob of marine (thick) grease on the spoke threads helps with this. It also equalises thread friction which I’ve found helps when truing, and hopefully slows rate of corrosion between dissimilar nipple/ spoke materials.

That's an interesting idea, but does that sort of grease dissolve rubber (inner tubes)? It's why I've avoided applying grease. I'd definitely try that if my wheels were tubeless.

 

[jarob10]

That's an interesting idea, but does that sort of grease dissolve rubber (inner tubes)? It's why I've avoided applying grease.

Only a tiny blob used in the spoke thread, and the grease tends to get pushed out away from the tube when winding in the spoke. Rim tape acts as a barrier. I’ve never seen inner tube dissolving problems.

 

[guerney]

Only a tiny blob used in the spoke thread, and the grease tends to get pushed out away from the tube when winding in the spoke. Rim tape acts as a barrier. I’ve never seen inner tube dissolving problems.

That's one good reason (for me) to not use cotton rim tape.

 

[Sturmey]

If you can reduce the dish/offset a little, it makes the wheel stronger.
This involves using washers/re-spacing axle to move the wheel over more towards the drive side and then re dishing the wheel back with a spoke key. It can be tricky and easier to do with v brakes. The less gears, the better. Generally speaking, the more symmetrical the wheel the stronger.

 

[guerney]

 

[guerney]

If you can reduce the dish/offset a little, it makes the wheel stronger.
This involves using washers/re-spacing axle to move the wheel over more towards the drive side and then re dishing the wheel back with a spoke key. It can be tricky and easier to do with v brakes. The less gears, the better. Generally speaking, the more symmetrical the wheel the stronger.

I might buy one of these (yet more gear to purchase - it never ends lol):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycle-Tension-Calibration-Aluminum-Measurement/dp/B08G1MTZ8K/ref=

 

[Hixyhicks]

How fast do you travel on your Bafang HD? If yours is unrestricted and you're a heavy guy on a heavy bike, regularly hitting potholes on the flat at 30mph+ , you're going to break spokes!

Or is your "Start current" too high, applying too much torque on the rear wheel from a standing start? That can be adjusted using the Bafang config tool.

26" 48 hole rims on ebay:

26in 48h Rim for sale | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for 26in 48h Rim. Shop with confidence.

www.ebay.co.uk

40 hole:

SJS Cycles Bicycle Parts and Accessories Store

The most comprehensive range of quality cycle components, spares and accessories in the world with express and global delivery available.

www.sjscycles.co.uk

Looks like you're going to have to do a fair bit of Googling, to find your components for a build.

Is this suitable for your bike? SJS are a bit slow to dispatch, but anything I've ordered has been delivered within a week - 48h 26" £134.99 Inc VAT :

26 559 Rear Wheel 48h CR18 Rim / Halo Spin Doctor 6-Bolt Disc Hub | MTB Wheels Rear | SJS Cycles

Handbuilt at SJSC by our Master Wheel builder with DT Swiss 14g spokes (Champion 260mm and 262mm), into a CR18, 48 hole silver Alloy rim. Solid Axle. Ideal for upgrading the stock machine built rear wheel on many modern tandems, or makes a very heavy duty MTB or Touring wheel for a Solo The...

www.sjscycles.co.uk

Can you fit fatter tyres on the rims you have, to absorb shocks?

View attachment 44430

Its as it came from the factory .

I was looking at this .

JD TANDEMS rear wheel 700c 48 hole disc or drag brake - £270.00 - Wheels for tandems - Rear Tandem Wheels 700c - JD Tandems

Buy JD TANDEMS rear wheel 700c 48 hole disc or drag brake for £270.00 at JD Tandems

www.tandems.co.uk

Would a more modern bike with bigger wheels be more suitable ?

 

[guerney]

Its as it came from the factory .

I was looking at this .

JD TANDEMS rear wheel 700c 48 hole disc or drag brake - £270.00 - Wheels for tandems - Rear Tandem Wheels 700c - JD Tandems

Buy JD TANDEMS rear wheel 700c 48 hole disc or drag brake for £270.00 at JD Tandems

www.tandems.co.uk

Would a more modern bike with bigger wheels be more suitable ?

Even if you buy that wheel, chances are it'll need truing a little bit anyway - every wheel I've ever bought, has needed truing... but I tend to buy as cheap as possible. If it were me, I'd try all the cheaper adjustment, wheel and tyre options first - but I'm a cheapskate.

 

[flecc]

No reason not to still use the bike as a truing stand today flecc.

Indeed, I built the heavily offset 20" motor wheel below in the widened rear frame of the bike in the photo below that, with it upside down of course. And I was sitting on the edge of my bed in my ground floor bedroom!

 

[Hixyhicks]

Built properly they should be trouble free esp with no motor.
I use ryde z2000 from bankrupt bike parts about £20 a pair in a nice fetching blue, for spokes I buy from ryanswheels/ryan spokes or you could get ryan to build your wheel. I use 14g sapim strong on all my wheels.

In this link are two of my wheels built up
Roadrat Alfine 8 with G370 hub build. | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community

Neath ,would you recommend the Alfine. Is it durable .

 

[Nealh]

Alfine 8 yes very good as long as it is set up correctly, I had my one on a mtb using double rings up front I well below the recommended 2:1 recommended gearing for it using a 32t small ring.

 

[awol]

I'm going to buy rims, catridges and spokes to make wheels myself next time, because the two new wheels I bought recently were both ever so slightly wonky, and they got wonkier over time, which forced me to learn to tue them. If I'm going to have to true brand new wheels, I may as well assemble them myself in the first place!

I'd recommend this book for wheelbuilding, I always refer back to it when I've got a wheel build coming up.

Wheel Building book for cycle wheels

Wheel Building, by Roger Musson. A complete guide to building and repairing wheels with over 90 color photos and CAD drawings.

www.wheelpro.co.uk

 

[Hixyhicks]

A voodoo hoodoo has come up locally for £150 in a large frame size,which would give me more room as my bike is a medium ,i may go for that as its a more modern bike .Which gives me more options for forks in the future .Is the Voodoo ok ?