As the
Battery Fires thread flickers on I just want to put this out there for others who may not have Saneagle's experience, estimation skills, stepwise approach, knowledge of what to look out for etc.
Disposing of heat can be a pain with electronics. If you reduce the resistance of the shunt by 30% the controller will allow 1/70% = 40% more current, making 1.4^2 = twice as much heat at full power, and that demands well above 100% headroom at the design stage in every power-train part, which is no mean ask.
With bikes being so exposed cooling's often not a problem, and motors and MOSFETs are famously robust, but every part of the power-train needs thinking through.
Suppose you tuck the messy
wires into the controller box. Later you replace the 8A controller with a 15A KT one and run it at level 2 or 3 to be kind to the small battery, with throttle for that instant full power. Probably we'd all keep full-on bursts short, mindful that they'd be making 3.5 times the usual heat in the motor. However that's 3.5x throughout the battery as well and the surplus wires, normally so exposed that we don't think of them as warming up, are adding 3.5x their usual heat trapped at one end of the battery. The
battery itself may not be up to the current either.
For more torque on my own folder I fitted a larger rear sprocket. Dave knows his way around with this stuff, we all learn from sharing experiences and I'm keen to hear more. It's just that even 'innocuous' 30% changes aren't something to copy only on the basis of it working for someone else.
P.S. Bl**dy hell that sounds nasty, all the very best with it, could even get to try Morphine?
P.P.S. Forgot to mention just how
temperature sensitive cells are.